Update on Alignment results! Car pulling to the left.
#31
#33
#35
#37
#39
Originally Posted by NVS_G35
Correcto, if his alignment was what he posted his car would drive like crap. positive camber and negative toe!
although SOMEONE would argue that it is still within spec so
has nothing to do with that.
Originally Posted by Gdup35sedan
The rear toe is still within spec, it's not going to cause a pull to the left. -GP-
#40
OK guys, this is my update. I went to go get another alignment done today to fix that toe problem and waalaa. The pulling is gone. Car drives straight as an arrow. I do have 2 questions though. When my toe was messed up, on my way to school, driving on the highway the car felt like crap. Where ever the road had grooves the car would pull on, felt kinda nasty the way it was driving. Is this also cuz of the toe, I didnt have a chance to go on the highway so far. And Sjould I still get that rear camber kit to put on or is the bent camber arm alright. I just want to know if it can cause any problems. It fixed some of the camber issue but if it can give me other types on problems I might as well spend the 200 and get the spc. Let me know ASAP, since I might be ordering this from someone on the boards. Thank you. By the way, my new toe spec was 13 and 13 in the rear and 2 and 2 in the front or something like that. But my right camber in the front was still -1.9, but I think i will leave that. By the way, how is it that when I went to the alignment place that did the modification on my camber arm it showed -1.6, but today I went where I originally went and the machine showed -2.0, and this is both in one day and same hunter machine. I figured mayb the machine was not reading it and decided to leave it. Your thoughts please.
#41
^^ glad you got it fixed. an alignment alone can change a car's handling
night/day. it's like getting some aftermarket part put on.
the crappy feel you had is probably the 'wandering' you were getting from
the rear. your toe-in was too weak on one side. with .13 each, that is
about where you want it. your actual will probably end up about
0.10 if you have lowering springs on.
the alignment after and before difference... this is because (typical on
progressive rate lowering springs) when the car is lifted up to do the
adjustments the lowering springs will not immediately compress back
to the working height. your ride is actually taller when it's being
adjusted and ends up being off. you need to ask the tech to setup
the alignment a tad differently to compensate for this.
- or -
wat i liked to do is before taking the car in... measure the ride height on
all corners. then i raise the car to extend the suspension and lower it.
it will be usually 12-14mm taller than its original ride height. i add
weights (wheels in the trunk, sandbags etc.) in the corners until i can
raise the car and lower it immediately back to the original ride height.
if you are real picky, you will do this with your weight in the car.
this way you can get the most accurate setting. most coilovers
running linear rate springs (especially ones with helper springs) wont
require this. just add your weight in the car while adjusting as the
springs will usually compress back to the ride height immediately
after the car is lowered.
it also helps to break-in your springs at least a week or two before
bringing the car in for an alignment. otherwise the spring can settle
later and it will require you to get another alignment.
i can keep going but the above is just a nutshell.
night/day. it's like getting some aftermarket part put on.
the crappy feel you had is probably the 'wandering' you were getting from
the rear. your toe-in was too weak on one side. with .13 each, that is
about where you want it. your actual will probably end up about
0.10 if you have lowering springs on.
the alignment after and before difference... this is because (typical on
progressive rate lowering springs) when the car is lifted up to do the
adjustments the lowering springs will not immediately compress back
to the working height. your ride is actually taller when it's being
adjusted and ends up being off. you need to ask the tech to setup
the alignment a tad differently to compensate for this.
- or -
wat i liked to do is before taking the car in... measure the ride height on
all corners. then i raise the car to extend the suspension and lower it.
it will be usually 12-14mm taller than its original ride height. i add
weights (wheels in the trunk, sandbags etc.) in the corners until i can
raise the car and lower it immediately back to the original ride height.
if you are real picky, you will do this with your weight in the car.
this way you can get the most accurate setting. most coilovers
running linear rate springs (especially ones with helper springs) wont
require this. just add your weight in the car while adjusting as the
springs will usually compress back to the ride height immediately
after the car is lowered.
it also helps to break-in your springs at least a week or two before
bringing the car in for an alignment. otherwise the spring can settle
later and it will require you to get another alignment.
i can keep going but the above is just a nutshell.
#42
Kenchan, thank you very much for all the info you have given me. The above post is very helpful. You were right all along about the toe and when i went there today I specifically told him this is what I want. He did it and the car drives perfect again. Although I had to take off a few lbs from the tires cuz its been so cold in NYC that the stock tires were rock hard. So i took off some air and made it a bit smoother.
#44