Brakes: Machining = Turning = Cutting??
#16
When retrueing rotors many forget the hub and interior of rotor hat may have excessive corrosion/rust creating a non parallel mating surface which creates a warp on a used rotor.
Check your FSM for the proper proceedure to INDEX the rotor to the hub.
Perfect rotors on a lathe can be warped in mounting on a used hub.
http://www.brakealign.com/pages/diagram.htm
Check your FSM for the proper proceedure to INDEX the rotor to the hub.
Perfect rotors on a lathe can be warped in mounting on a used hub.
http://www.brakealign.com/pages/diagram.htm
#17
The brakealign system is very cool, but it is made to be sold to shops. The basic kit is way too expensive for a one-off DIY brake job.
I would recommend a Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit This tool allows you to clean the hub and the inside of the rotor prior to reassembly.
You will also need a proper runout gauge to make sure all your effort pays off.
I would recommend a Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit This tool allows you to clean the hub and the inside of the rotor prior to reassembly.
You will also need a proper runout gauge to make sure all your effort pays off.
#18
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Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
There are several reasons why rotors needs to be turned:
1 - they are warped
2 - there are hot spots throughout the rotor (glazing), and those need to be turned out, otherwise the next brake job wont last and you'll get lots of squealing.
3 - rotors can just be turned because of brake squeeling...whenthe surface hazes, it will make noise and cause excessive heat as well.
Be careful with some shops though. Make sure they tell you what the minimum thickness is and write down what it is after the turning. The thinner a rotor gets, the hotter they will be as well, and that will affect your braking potential. They should also do what's called a cross hatch on the rotors after being turned. Basically they take a sanding pad to the rotor, while it's turning, and put circular scratchers into it. It helps with initial adhesion and brake pad seasoning.
Typically, there are at least 2 cuts done for a rotor turn. 1 to get the 'bad' metal off and the surface completely flat (no warping), and a final cut to clean the surface properly. Depending on the rotors and your driving, your's could need 2-3 turns before the final cut. AND DON'T FORGET, when they are thinner, they don't work as good, regardless of specs.
If you have Brembo's - I would look at the TSB and get to the dealer. If you don't, you may want to consider a better aftermarket rotor, likely slotted or cross drilled. They will dissipate the hear much better, last longer and allow your pads to work more efficiently. You may also want to consider upgrading the pads as well.
This doesn't have to cost $$thousands$$. the general braking system in these cars is very good, but better pads and rotors make a huge difference. Also, for $100, put some stainless brake lines on at the same time...you'll never have a squishy pedal!
Rick
1 - they are warped
2 - there are hot spots throughout the rotor (glazing), and those need to be turned out, otherwise the next brake job wont last and you'll get lots of squealing.
3 - rotors can just be turned because of brake squeeling...whenthe surface hazes, it will make noise and cause excessive heat as well.
Be careful with some shops though. Make sure they tell you what the minimum thickness is and write down what it is after the turning. The thinner a rotor gets, the hotter they will be as well, and that will affect your braking potential. They should also do what's called a cross hatch on the rotors after being turned. Basically they take a sanding pad to the rotor, while it's turning, and put circular scratchers into it. It helps with initial adhesion and brake pad seasoning.
Typically, there are at least 2 cuts done for a rotor turn. 1 to get the 'bad' metal off and the surface completely flat (no warping), and a final cut to clean the surface properly. Depending on the rotors and your driving, your's could need 2-3 turns before the final cut. AND DON'T FORGET, when they are thinner, they don't work as good, regardless of specs.
If you have Brembo's - I would look at the TSB and get to the dealer. If you don't, you may want to consider a better aftermarket rotor, likely slotted or cross drilled. They will dissipate the hear much better, last longer and allow your pads to work more efficiently. You may also want to consider upgrading the pads as well.
This doesn't have to cost $$thousands$$. the general braking system in these cars is very good, but better pads and rotors make a huge difference. Also, for $100, put some stainless brake lines on at the same time...you'll never have a squishy pedal!
Rick
#19
Originally Posted by fairwaywiz
i wish this post was here 2 months ago before i spent over 1200 dollars at les schwab
Anyway, I have purchase my own electronic readout caliper,
so I clamp the rotor, set it to zero, and measure 12 more diff place (around the circle) in the rotor. And after this step, what's next?
I heard most car rotor spec's are 0.03" - 0.06". Does this mean the highest readout and the lowest readout should not be more than 0.06" apart or it has to be turned?
What is a rotor runout? This is a technical term.
Also, how do you determine if the rotor is too thin to machine? where do you measure that?
I meaure my rotor is 0.91454" from outer braking surface-to-inner braking surface.
THanks,
Brian
Last edited by ILuvMyG35; 06-19-2007 at 11:08 PM.
#20
Originally Posted by ILuvMyG35
.....What is a rotor runout?.....
This Article really spells it all out for you.
Last edited by PotomacG; 06-20-2007 at 08:17 AM.
#21
Your FSM has a specification for runout maximium of 0.0028", if you are sensitive I would use 0.001" as the goal.
The finer tolerance you use the longer time you get before you must reset/repair things again.
Wheel/tire imbalance adds to rotor runout creating extra vibrations in the 55-65 mph range.....................years ago "on the car tire balancing" was used to minimize this interaction.
The finer tolerance you use the longer time you get before you must reset/repair things again.
Wheel/tire imbalance adds to rotor runout creating extra vibrations in the 55-65 mph range.....................years ago "on the car tire balancing" was used to minimize this interaction.
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