I'd recommend going to an industrial warehouse area on a Sunday. The roads should be empty and you should be able to do the necessary sub 50mph braking events. I ususally do the bedding procedure on empty public roads late at night. The trick is to find wide open areas where you can brake fairly hard, but not necessarily completely stop, continue on, and repeat.

 

This is not a good start with my beautiful G35. So I sprayed some brake cleaner allowed it to dry, drove in a parking lot. Forward, back, side to side. Ok maybe not side to side but you get my point. Still squealing from the brakes!! I'm no mechanical genius but something told me it has to be the brake pads. Took the wheels off, removed the calipers....you guessed it, pads were almost completely gone on both the right and left side!!! Oh, and to add to that, when I removed the wheel I found a nice little surprise. The left side tire was so worn on the inside that the metal in the tire was starting to poke through. The right side was not showing metal yet but the inside was so worn that it was bumpy all the way around on the inside part of the tire!
Yes, I just bought this car Monday! BTW, I changed both front brake pads last night and brakes were great now.

The owner of the dealership where I bought it from is out until 3pm cst today but I plan on calling him and giving him a chance to make this right and pay for 2 front tires. The rear still have around 70% left which is expected on a used vehicle. However tire wear so bad that the metal is showing is not what I expected. Especially when he told me all his vehicles are "thuroughly inspected" prior to being put on the floor for sale. Yeah, I know...good luck huh?!! Well, I'll let you know how it goes.

Any comments are welcome. Even if it's "you've been had you dumbass!"

 

[QUOTE=DaveB]Because it makes them money Contrary to popular belief, the ridges formed along the face of a rotor actually improve braking performance because it allows the gases to escape while under extreme braking. It's basically the same principle as a slotted rotor. Now if the ridges are extremely deep, then you've got some underlying problem that needs to be addressed.

The obvious downside to turning a rotor is that you're removing rotor material which reduces the life of the rotor and more importantly, kills the effectiveness of the rotor to shed thermal energy (causes brake fade). I've spent my fair share of time at auto-X events and I honestly don't know of anyone at those events that gets their rotors turned. These guys are also swapping race and street brake pads before and after the events. Only when the rotors wear out, warp, or develop hairline cracks is when they're serviced which means they're replaced, not turned. I've done my own brakes for about 18 years now and I've never gotten my rotors turned. I've also never had a warped set of rotors either.

Rotor glazing is caused to by two things with the latter being the culprit for most causes:

1) Running a pad above it's heat range. This would be hard to do with the OEM pad unless you were running them in a track event.

2) Improper bedding of the new pads. You can be certain that 99% of the public doesn't have a clue about proper brake pad bedding. A shop will not perform the bedding because there's too much liability involved performing the proper procedure and some customers may see it as abusive or even dangerous.

Regarding aftermarket ceramic pads, basically, don't do it unless you've invested in some seriously high quality aftermarket rotors (larger too) that can handle the excessively high heat ceramic pads cause. Basically, you'll get worse braking performance with a ceramic pad on a OEM brake setup.




Well I'm gonna have to completely and respectfully disagree with you. My mechanic didn't make sh*t off of me and after I properly bedded my brakes they were in fact "glazed" and I bedded them properly as recommended with any performance brakes and after having them turned and block sanding my pads down again the braking response was MUCH better. Most people don't turn rotors any more becasue of the cheap price of rotors these days. My last rotors for my old car were cheaper than the cost of turning them. I do not believe running "groved" rotors is a good thing , it leads to uneven pad wear. I seroiusly doubt that the groves would be beneficial for releasing gasses as they are in a circle and are parallel with the pad, slotted rotors push the gasses out. As far as ceramic pads I'm sure you can ask 100experts if their better then OEM and you'll get an answer like "oh hell ya" I would not recommend an EBC blue track pad but I think an EBC green or blue pad would be a better choice than stock pads. So you just go ahead and run grooved rotors with stock pads and I'll run mine and I'll say to you "good day sir"

 

Well I hate dealers and won't trust one as far as I can't spit on them. If one of your tires is worn WAY more than the other than the car has either been in an accident or has hit a curb or something very hard and tweeked the alignment or worse damaged front end components. I would recommend taking it to a "good" front end shop and have them look it over for damage if none is seen then have them do an alignment and see if they can get it to spec. If they do see damage then I'de be calling my dealer and throwing the lawsuit word around a lot!!! You need to raise hell if they dont want to make this right!!! If that fails go in and crack some heads

 

+1 for DaveB's response.

If anyone would like to learn even more about brakes, you can also check out the Stoptech website and start reading.

Oh wait, I need some more smilies...

 

I recommend everyone read up on these:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

90% of all brake problems can be solved with a proper bed-in procedure, if the pad or rotors are not below wear specs.

If the car has plenty of pads, there are no excessive grooving on the rotors, then chances are the car sat on the lot for a while, and rust developed between the pad and the rotor forming a "high spot" on the rotor surface. Look at the rotor and see if you can see a faint outline in the shape of the pad. If so, you will have to try and bed-in the brakes again to see if the problem gets solved.

 

I have a 2004 G35x Sedan with spoiler and I love this ride. I have loved it since I drove it the first time. Mine has 20,000 miles on it and started making the grinding, squeeling sound. Long story short, I live in Central Illinois and the closest Infiniti dealer is in Chicago (about an hour in a half away). I took it to a CARX place and they said my roters were shot and my front brakes were gone as well. I found out there is a 3 yr 35,000 mile warranty for brakes b/c Infiniti knows they suck on the 03 and 04 models. Luckily, I drove the car up to the dealership and was still under warranty and got the front roters and brake pads replaced for free. My back brake pads were at 5mm and they will only replace free if they are at 3mm or less. Can anybody tell me what % worn are my back brake pads at 5mm?? Good thing is my back roters are ok. I just wanted to share my story. I couldn't believe at only 20,000 miles, my brakes and roters were shot. I hope they replaced the brake pads with better ones then they put on the first time.