Just do what I did... go to Home Depot and buy 4 8x8x8 concrete half blocks... Jack up the car and drop it onto the blocks with the wheels on. Now you have at least a foot underneath the car and it's as if it was sitting on the ground. Crawl under there with the two wrenches (one for the jam nuts and one for turning the bolt between the end links). I nearly had to double the length of the rear endlinks to take all the preload off. I was quite surprised, but eventually you'll get to a point where you can move the bolt with your fingers. That's where you want to be. I bet the sway bar will make a lot less noise then, since it's not being loaded up as much.

 

these will support the car ok? i think im thinking of cinder blocks. how much do those blocks run you? thanks again for the great suggestion!

 

you can find CMU blocks on most construction sites - one of the guys may just give a few to you. you should just get jackstands though if you plan to work under your car regularly.

 

The concrete blocks I was talking about above are only like $1.50 each at Home Depot. Cheap!!

Def still have jack stands under the car when you're under there, just in case. But yeah, they supported the car just fine!

 

oh yea jackstand fo sho! ill be doing this sometime this week definetly! i did check the endlinks and they werent lose at all, all bolts tight. Ill let you know after i do this!

 

Also, make sure you check the nuts on the bolts with the endlinks. When the Inifiniti mech was working on my car fixing my busted SPL A arm, he said that one of these bolts had come off my endlink. Apparently, there isn't enough thread on the endlinks to engage the nylon locking part. I'm going to get all new ones sometime this week that aren't as thick and will lock....

 

i think they may have fixed this issue with their new endlinks or something, because there is plenty of thread sticking out of the end of my endlinks...a good 1/8-1/4 iinch all around

 

Funny cause I just bought mine like three weeks ago..... I would think I'd have an "updated" version, but who knows...

 

made them a little longer today all around, i put them up on the blocks like you said. All your doing is taking the load off the bar correct? Like there obviously shouldnt be any play, id say theres about an 1 1/8" from the bottom of the top joint to the top of the bottom joint(the gap between the top and bottom links is about 1 1/8) seems to not be as "squirrelly" and sensitive as it was before, seems alot better for DD

 

Yeah, by lengthening the endlinks you are taking all the preload off the bars. I had to lengthen mine all around too, but the rears almost doubled in length. I'm going to get back under my car this weekend cause I'm noticing a very faint clunking noise when I go over bumps. I think it's because I followed the PG directions and took the endlinks about 1/4 turn into the "loose" side. I think I'm going to tighten them back up 1/4 past neutral towards being more "tight" (shorter). I think the clunking noise is coming from the suspension traveling up and getting rid of the "slack" in the endlinks, then engaging the sway bar. I'm also going to set my rear of full stiff

Basically you want to get under there and turn those suckers until you can spin them with your hand easily. Only then have you removed all the preload. Try to do both sides fairly evenly also.

I saw your other post about the rain. I wouldn't blame it on the sways/endlinks. I def find that my car has LESS roll from the endlinks/sways. It does feel "lighter" when driving, maybe that's what you're calling "squirelly". The car should be more neutral anyways... That's why we dropped $300 on endlinks!

 

yea, dont get me wrong the car handles friggin sick man, literally moving the steering wheel 1/8" makes the car move, i think its just from the parkway, all the little bumps being transferred to me, then in turn moving the wheel a little bit subconciously. the spring rates on my coils are pretty stiff 10k in the front and 8k in the rear

 

I feel yeah, I drive 80 miles a day on CA highways to work. I have BC Racing coilovers that are 10K and 8K also I just turn the dampening down so it doesn't break my back. I LOVE the responsiveness of the car now...

 

I hope it's your sway bars at full stiffness, not the coilovers...

 

I'm pretty sure he just meant that he turned the dampening all the way to full "hard". He mixed up the words "stiff" and "hard", not coilovers and sways.

 

sorry for bringing up an old thread but im looking to buy the hotchkis sway bars and have both front and rear set on medium because my car is a DD now my question is it necessary to go after market on the endlinks or will the 05+(beefier) ones hold up to the added stiffness of the sway bars