I finally got everything , including time and installed my four pot front calipers today, along with the stainless lines (finally). The install was pretty straight forward. I unbolted the front calipers, by removing the bolts holding the caliper brackets, and disconnected the brake line at the top. This way everything came off in a neat package. Installed the new mounting brackets, then calipers, lines, then dropped in new pads and retaining plate and bolts. Swapped out the rear lines and was ready to bleed. After unhooking the battery, I used my hand vacuum bleeder starting with the rt rear, then moved to the left front, and bled the outer first, then the inner, moved to the left rear, and fnally the rt front, again doing the outer bleeder first. I was quiet easy to rell when the lines were clear, as the Super blue fluid shows up easily. I followed the same sequence one more time and finally checked each corner one more time the old fashioned way (pumped the brakes.
Based on my experience, the factory specified sequence worked very well with no issues, and Kines all show no air.
First impressions, after bedding in the new pads, the brakes are impressive. Will stop on a time, with no drama,
before new calipers, or paint

Painted Stock

Four pot without Wheel


Completely assembled with wheel.

 

Most awesome! Does it feel diff vs the oem bbk? Are those rotors heaiver than your oem 11.5" units?

I noticed you used the vacuum method. Did you have to use use teflon tape on the bleeders?

 

I can definitelt tell a difference from the OE BBK. Without adjusting my braking points, I ended crawling into the parking lot at work this, morning, because they decreased the stopping distance significantly. I tried a couple of panic stops, after beddding in the pads, and letting them cool yesterday, there is a major difference. I didn't each one, however I remeber reading somewhere on the RB site that the weight difference was pretty much a wash. Just handling each rotor, they felt about the same. So rolling weight is about the same. However the 4 pot caliper/ braided line is definitely lighter than the OEM parts, so unsprung weight will go down a couple of pounds.
I have never use teflon tape on bleeders, the vacuum pump attacehes over the bleedr, just like a hose to do the old fashioned way would.

 

Thanks. The teflon tape is for the bleeder threads (where is threads into the caliper). Sometimes this point allows air to be sucked in and prevents the brakes from being bleed well. But it doens't look like you had any of those problems.

 

I have never had to use teflon tape on bleeder screws in over 30years of working on cars. Of course we have drilled and tapped out a few to larger sizes due to damaged threads, not of our doing.

 

Just upgraded to two piece "open slot" rotors.
From this



To this.

 

nice update, any new shots of ur whole car?

 

Not lately. I have been driving 140 mile a day round trip to work, so it is exremely nsaty, right now.
Here are some when it was actually clean.

 

I was surprised how light the 2-piece rotors were compared to stock. Too bad the pics are blocked on my server.

OP, did you have to modify the E-brake cover (not dust cover) to get the rears to fit properly?

 

^^Extremely clean, is urs an X model? just wondering since the ride height is so, well... high, LOL. a nice drop would really change the whole look of the car, even a moderate one like Eibach ProKit or H&Rs.

 

Actually have the OE BBK in the rear, but they went on with no problem, other than trimming the lip on teh shield.
No its not a X. Still up in the air on supsnsion LOL. Suspension keeps gettting interrupted by life. Had planned on Bilstein PSS 10s last year, but the job situation, got in teh way. Now with the new job I will relocating, and currently waiting to close on a new house. Now considering Pro Kits/ D spec combination.

 

sounds good, keep us updated