Will a visual inspection show microcracks in the cams as per your technique?

Still haven't seen any technical reason for turning the rotors when the visually inspect fine.

Anyway, a crack that will brake a rotor to pieces will be one that goes though the entire rotor.

Exactly how is turning the rotor going to fix this problem?

 

Refer to this post

 

I personally believe miss south carolina isn't the greatest source of information other than some dandy eye candy.

I also personally believe a turbonator gives 25 hp to the wheels therefore it must be true and technically sound.

 

[Klubbheads] you guys are mean. Why you gang up on me like that. Fvcking f@gets. I'm out of here. I need a day off from driver. Bunch of mean fvckers

Fvck you guys. I'm gonna go stare at hard ***** in the gym shower[/Klubbheads]

 

Ok we are really getting somewhere with the Joker method of deductive reasoning here. I'm sure glad we went down this path.

 

went home at lunch today and felt the rotors they are basically smooth on both sides of the rotors. The rears are almost perfectly smooth like new, and the fronts don't have any big grooves or gauges in them but they do have the normal tiny wear grooves in them. It all looks good / normal for the mileage.

being that ths car had 38K miles and is going through it's first set of pads then I assume the rotor thickness is at least fine until the next set of pads ?

 

It would be a decent GUESS but that's all it would be. Harbor Freight sells a very cheap micrometer that would be more than sufficent for this. ie.. to check and confirm the rotors are still with in oem thickness specs

 

Sound like you are fine. If there is no vibration in the rotors you could just let them be.

 

they look smooth enough to not need turning unless it's just a rule "you always turn rotors with new pads" but now that I think of it I don't recall getting my rotors turned when I put on new pads on my 2000 GT Mustang and it was always fine.

 

Since new to limit is usually 1.0mm per side and the minimum amount you can set a lathe is about 0.003" about 10 trueings corrected for wear.

To avoid the possibility of missings a high spot in a single trueing many techs overcut say 0.005---0.010" reducing the number to 8>3.

25.4mm = 1.0"
1.0mm= 0.03937"

 

ok so this was bothering me all day long .... i got home and checked my haynes automotive brake manual and found this:

(from the previous page) Runout is not desirable - the less the better...
<a href="http://s74.photobucket.com/albums/i245/pstetz/?action=view&current=chilton_brakes.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i245/pstetz/chilton_brakes.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

so i read this to say it's recomended to turn your rotors after you replace pads. it's not critical, but you should at least scuff them if you don't.

 

well I slapped Hawk pads on the fronts last night. It's super easy to do. I can't beleive I ever considered paying to have it done. It was actually alot easier than replacing the pads on my old 2000 GT Mustang. The rotors looked fine on both sides so I put it all back together all nice and greased up. I don't know if they were glazed or not but the brakes felt perfect. I'll do the rears this weekend w/ OEM pads.

going to buy a plenum spacer w/ the money I saved by doing this myself.

 

"professionals" will always recommend turning. They can charge for the service, and most don't even bother doing a runout measurement. They also ensure a flat surface for less possible issues with their brake service at the cost of significant rotor life. The KEY point on that page is the problems associated with uneven rotors, ie pulsation and "other undesirable symptoms" which if are not present without turning the rotors is a better solution.

 

Whenever you change pad compounds a good idea to lightly turn rotors to avoid a mix/match of brake compounds [transfer film] on rotors during breakin [first 500 miles].

 

and amateurs will always argue no matter what.