Brake Pad change = brake idiot light that wont go out?!
#1
Brake Pad change = brake idiot light that wont go out?!
If this is obvious, I'll apologize in advance --- Yes I did search!
OK, so I've done many brake pad changes in my life... Easy job, quick to do... I just replaced the front pads on my 06AT coupe, and the brakes work great. When I completed the change, I forgot to drain a little fluid off the bleeder or resivoir. (I had to top it off a few weeks ago, my sign it was time for new pads!)
Once I saw the brake light, I immediately knew what I forgot and pulled it in and drained about 3/4" of fluid off of the resivoir. The car traveled a total of 10 feet with too much fluid in it.
Since correcting the fluid level, the light refuses to go out. Ive double checked the physical install, and driven about 40 miles with no braking issues at all.
WHY IS MY BRAKE LIGHT STILL ON?
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks
OK, so I've done many brake pad changes in my life... Easy job, quick to do... I just replaced the front pads on my 06AT coupe, and the brakes work great. When I completed the change, I forgot to drain a little fluid off the bleeder or resivoir. (I had to top it off a few weeks ago, my sign it was time for new pads!)
Once I saw the brake light, I immediately knew what I forgot and pulled it in and drained about 3/4" of fluid off of the resivoir. The car traveled a total of 10 feet with too much fluid in it.
Since correcting the fluid level, the light refuses to go out. Ive double checked the physical install, and driven about 40 miles with no braking issues at all.
WHY IS MY BRAKE LIGHT STILL ON?
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks
#3
Hey Darkness, thanks for the reply.
The fluid was about 1/2" below the 'minimum' line. When I removed the pads they were very low (remaining friction material was about the same thickness as the metal backer that holds the material, mabye 20% of new thickness). I did a track day a month or so ago, and they wore down during those sessions. The light has not been on until I completed teh pad change, which was several weeks after I topped off fluids.
I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and still have the same issue.
Thanks for the suggestion!
The fluid was about 1/2" below the 'minimum' line. When I removed the pads they were very low (remaining friction material was about the same thickness as the metal backer that holds the material, mabye 20% of new thickness). I did a track day a month or so ago, and they wore down during those sessions. The light has not been on until I completed teh pad change, which was several weeks after I topped off fluids.
I disconnected the battery for a few minutes and still have the same issue.
Thanks for the suggestion!
#4
This may be an idiot comment so ignore it if disconnecting the negative on the battery does the same thing but I would have tried the protocol for resetting the check engine light as well like the 350z by pressing the gas in a certain pattern. I think there's a how to on 350z-tech forum.
Addendum - i am an idiot. I read on the motordyne website that you might have to pump your brakes to discharge capacitors after the negative cable is disconnected. I have no idea what that means but maybe it will help.
Addendum - i am an idiot. I read on the motordyne website that you might have to pump your brakes to discharge capacitors after the negative cable is disconnected. I have no idea what that means but maybe it will help.
Last edited by knkim; 06-06-2008 at 06:24 PM. Reason: addendum
#5
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