IIRC from the FSM, EBFD really only kicks in if it detects slippage.

 

If you want it as fine as you imply, you won't be able to do the calculations without some serious equipment and a test facility. At some point, you will have to make concessions in order to complete you calculations.

 

but whats the confidence intervals on your calculations at that point? +/-5%? 10%? 15%?

 

^ this is turning into a stats class

 

Depends I guess. What are the various BBK maker's stats? -/+ 5% might be pretty good, if their products affect bias in % of 10-25%?

Like I said, relative to what these bbk makers put out, it's probably tons better. Relative to what the oems use for their own calculations, it's probably error prone. I was just saying we aren't comparing the oem systems. If your calculations on the oem systems come out to something close to what they publish, then your calculations are probably good when you input the aftermarket bbk specs.

Do your calculations have to account for drilled/slotted rotors vs blanks?

Hey you're the one doing the calculations. I was just trying to make it easier/faster considering the terms of the discussion you wanted to put them into. Research on my friend.

 

The problem is you don't have graphs for pad friction vs temperature and graphs for friction vs application speed.

Obviously all these will change with wear so you need multiple graphs based on pad thichness

 

I found this at http://autospeed.com/cms/A_110601/article.html

Put simply, what you need is for front brakes to lock the front wheels slightly before the rear wheels lock. (No, we're not talking cars with ABS here!) This means that the car remains in a straight line, steered and stabilized by the rear wheels. With the rears locked up, the back wheels steer the car and the steering wheel is virtually useless.

There are several ways of testing brake bias. You can find a brake dyno, or alternatively grab a friend and some chalk or duct tape and then find a vacant road to do some testing. The marking materials are used on the tires so that your friend can more readily tell which wheels - the front or the back - stop turning first.

If there is a bias problem (and of course the brakes are in good condition, with no seized pistons or anything like that - see the breakout box at the end of this story) it is then up to you to sort it out or take it to an expert. However be prepared for no help from most brake centers, as changing values in a brake proportioning valve is not something that they normally do - or, in my experience, even want to do!

 

Also check out http://dsr.racer.net/brake_bias.htm

 

I don't think our oem brake porportioning valves are adjustable anyway