K im getting a 1.6inch drop all the way around and i need to know by tomorrow what i need to get the proper alignment. Just the rear arm and the rear toe camberkit or just 1 and not the other and is there anything i would need to buy for the front ? Thanks

 

I believe you'll need front adjustable camber arms - OEM has basically no adjustment... I'm not sure how far out of alignment you will be. I was fine with 17" stockers on Eibach Pros - but when I went to 19 X 8.5 it got too far out of spec (I still need to install camber adjusters).

You'll probably get much better responses here:

https://g35driver.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=164

 

i am using Swift springs with only a spc rear camber kit/ toe bolts and my specs are -2.0 degrees of camber up front and -1.7 degrees of camber in the rear. For some reason without the camber kit, my right rear had about -1.0degree more camber than the left rear. Ive got the lifetime alignment at firestone as well and i can say i deff. got my moneys worth already.

 

You really dont need anything. Just go get an alignment. Your not low enough yet to get front and rear camber kits. anything below 2.0 you will need to purchase a camber kit. 1.9 and higher can be correct from the factory camber/toe

 

Thats total BS. The front has NO camber adjustment stock and the rear has very very little camber/toe adjustment. Even a .4 drop will throw the car out of the good range.

Pretty much any drop will need camber kits (front and rear) to get into proper alignment. If you don't mind being out of spec then fine, but it wears your tires very quickly and can make handling much worse.

I have eibach pro on stock 17" and I very much needed front and rear SPC kits.

Please stop telling people that they don't need kits when dropping. I fell for that crap and ended up having to order camber kits after i had the springs on.

If you are going to drop, do it right. Don't drive around with -2 degrees + camber, its retarded.

I did It right... here is my results:

 

^^^ I agree and disagree... I was actually fine with Eichach Pro on stock 17"... but the Eibachs didnt drop me excessively... but when I went to 19 (and the spings had time to settle) the fronts were a bit out of spec (not horribly, but enough to need camber arms).

I guess I just repeated myself from post 2... but I needed to state that Eibach Pro with 17" can be okay (at least on some cars - mine was).

 

Do you have an alignment result sheet? (its helpful in seeing about where it settled to). I didn't get a before sheet, but mine was HELLA red and messed up. But after, as you can see, drives perfectly again and I love it.

I have an X which means my drop was .4 more than a RWD G, but still.. you had to be 'further' out of spec, even if it wasnt a lot.

I am just trying to advise caution to people embarking on lowering projects. I think a lot of bad advice is given on these forums. A lot of half educated guesses. I'd rather tell people to be on the safe side than give false hope that everything will just work out.

 

Its funny that you say that. Cause i went a year drop on Tanabe Df210 with just an alignment and no camber kit. Everything was put back to spec. This is a never ending subject. I was jus stating what ive been through and hear

 

on the 17" it was done by hand by renowned tech, Darin at West End in Gardena, Ca... he doesn’t use computer alignment, he does corner balancing and race alignments and does everything by measurement... he did mine for street use and as close to OEM specs as possible and it wasn’t that far out - tire wear was non-existent - I suppose I can take pics of the tires if you need "proof"...

I have the spec sheet from my recent alignment after the Volk 19"... but that will show that it is too far out of spec.

I'm not necessarily disagreeing with you - because like I stated, Eibachs didnt originally drop me enough to be that concerned... more than 1.5" though and there could be issues...

As for "bad info" - I agree... however, if you are implying the info I'm giving is "half educated guesses", thats not true - I'm posting what my car did on my applications.
*don’t confuse me with the guy you originally replied to

 

I have a 1" drop on my G and I was able to get my alignment back to within coupe alignment specs, but there's no way I could get it back into the sedan range. Basically, once you go past a 1" drop, you're going to be well out of the sedan alignment spec. In the rear, it's not a huge deal, but up front, you will certainly kill the front tires very quickly. The front suspension design (specifically camber and caster) is such that it put hella stress on the inner portions of tires once you drop the suspension. Adjustable A-arms are must if you do any sort of drop with aftermarket springs. With these cars, dropping 1.0+ inches isn't simply just a $250 spring drop. You better plan on a $600 set of A-arms or you're going to munch through the front tires in 10K miles.

 

+1 i agree with you. I wasnt trying to give out bs as well. Just stating what some alignment shop have told me.

 

I wasn't trying to say you were giving bad info. I totally believe what you are saying. I guess my only point is that people should be aware that they may need the kits and they should research it and figure out all the details before getting into it.

I wanted my car to be back to OE spec, G35x sedan OE spec... not coupe.. so I did need both kits. I guess its probably fine to run coupe spec too, but just make sure you know what that means before doing it.

I just kinda get frazzled when I see potentially bad info posted. I'd prefer people not post opinions in place of fact. I am an engineer so I like to see numbers, specs, data... not "you should be fine" and then see pictures of cars with the wheels sticking out with huge negative camber.

 

hmmm okay... I understand... but I just re-read the thread and I didnt see anyone say/write "you should be fine"... I saw some informative info that is what I look for when researching.

 

What you need depends on your goals. If you want to get within specs, you may be OK with nothing ot just a rear camber kit.

But it your goal is to minimize inner tire wear, adjustable a-arms up front and a rear camber kit are a must.

Even though a car is "within spec" doesn't mean there won't be excessive inner tire wear. My sedan was within specs (which has about an entire degree of camber adjustment to be within spec) and still had fast inside tire wear while the outside edeges of the tires were fine.

Front and rear camber kits are about 1/2 the price of a set of tires.