Brakes worn @ 95% (Front) and 40% (Rear), should I replace them all? Quote a rip-off?

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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 05:14 PM
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Question Brakes worn @ 95% (Front) and 40% (Rear), should I replace them all? Quote a rip-off?

I have a 2005 G35 Coupe, RWD, @ 61,000 miles, with factory brakes

I took my G to Brakemaster's and they quoted:
"Front Brakes 95% worn; rear brakes 40% worn"
They recommended replacing my front rotors and brake pads.

Question 1: Is it common for a RWD that the rear brakes wear slower the front brakes? I am thinking since the rear wheels are providing power, then the brakes at rear should be consumed more when breaking...

Question 2: Do you thinking I should replace all four rotors so they can wear at the same pace or just replace the front ones so that the rear factory rotors can catch up with the wearing?

Question 3: Here is the quote that BrakeMaster has provided me, do you think the pricing is fair vs. quality?
AKEBONO F Ceramic Pads...................... $133(Over-priced!!!)
Centric Parts, INC. F Disc Brake Rotor...... $299.38
with Labor and tools the total is $527

If I buy my own rotors and pads, they will charge $80 for installation...
For brake pads, I am now deciding between Hawk HPS or <s>Hawk Performance Ceramic</s> (OK. So Hawk doesn't make this for G35);
For rotors, OC A provided my quote of $216 for all 4 rotors!!!! But I am still looking at Stop Tech, which is so widely recommended here at the forum..but they are PRICY!!!!

Question 4: Misc questions: I am confused....
Is my car Bremo? or non-bremo?
Is my G 4-piston? or 6-piston?

You opinions are deeply appreciated...
 

Last edited by SkyGliner; Aug 18, 2008 at 05:40 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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the front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping, so the fronts will always wear down quicker (RWD/FWD has nothing to do with this). you shouldn't have to replace rotors at 61,000 miles unless you feel shuddering at high speeds or if they're deeply worn (run your fingernail across the rotor to check it). your car is Non-Brembo with 2-piston front brakes and 1-piston rears.

my advice - man up and change your brake pads yourself. all 4 corners will cost about $120 shipped from tirerack (the akebono ceramics, which are great), and you can do it yourself in under an hour. I've changed the brakes on G's dozens of times, and it's an absolute cake-walk...

lesson of the day - don't be a pu$$y and learn to do the work yourself
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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Q1: Fronts will always provide more braking power than rear, otherwise your car would be fish tailing all over the place. Think about RWD for racing, when you launch, weight is transferred to the rear, thus rear wheels get more traction. By the same reasoning, when you brake, weight is transferred to the front, so the fronts have more traction and thus should receive more of the braking power. It works the same for FWD, except when you launch, you actually lose traction when the engine raises...I know first hand from having a supercharged FWD Grand Prix.

Q3: I tend to always think prices for brake jobs are a rip off since it's such an easy DIY job, but that's just my opinion.

Q4: I'm still really new to these cars, but IIRC Brembo brakes only came on the 03-04 G's. Also, if you had Brembo brakes the calipers would say "Brembo" right on the front of them.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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haha, I just realized you're a chick! either way, you can still "man up" and do it yourself... it always impresses me when a girl can do basic maintenance on her car. and I'm sure it'll impress your bf / significant other

Originally Posted by rockd
the front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping, so the fronts will always wear down quicker (RWD/FWD has nothing to do with this). you shouldn't have to replace rotors at 61,000 miles unless you feel shuddering at high speeds or if they're deeply worn (run your fingernail across the rotor to check it). your car is Non-Brembo with 2-piston front brakes and 1-piston rears.

my advice - man up and change your brake pads yourself. all 4 corners will cost about $120 shipped from tirerack (the akebono ceramics, which are great), and you can do it yourself in under an hour. I've changed the brakes on G's dozens of times, and it's an absolute cake-walk...

lesson of the day - don't be a pu$$y and learn to do the work yourself
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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^+1

The pads and rotors on the G are as easy/easier than any other vehicle I have worked on. If you can get the car raised and wheels off, you could do the brakes. I always hear people say, "I'll leave something important like brakes to the professionals." Take a look at those professionals next time you are at the brake shop and ask yourself if you would trust one to fly a 737.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rockd
haha, I just realized you're a chick! either way, you can still "man up" and do it yourself... it always impresses me when a girl can do basic maintenance on her car. and I'm sure it'll impress your bf / significant other
lol...such a gender-ist.. ..kidding...

Or I can persuade my bf to impress me by changing my brake pads for me...
 

Last edited by SkyGliner; Aug 18, 2008 at 06:07 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rockd
the front brakes do 70-80% of the stopping, so the fronts will always wear down quicker (RWD/FWD has nothing to do with this). you shouldn't have to replace rotors at 61,000 miles unless you feel shuddering at high speeds or if they're deeply worn (run your fingernail across the rotor to check it). your car is Non-Brembo with 2-piston front brakes and 1-piston rears.

my advice - man up and change your brake pads yourself. all 4 corners will cost about $120 shipped from tirerack (the akebono ceramics, which are great), and you can do it yourself in under an hour. I've changed the brakes on G's dozens of times, and it's an absolute cake-walk...

lesson of the day - don't be a pu$$y and learn to do the work yourself
nope, no shuddering at high speeds...just squeky when braking...man..liars at BrakeMaster's...

How should it feel when I fun my fingernail across the rotor if it's not worn?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by waltjrUM
Q1: Fronts will always provide more braking power than rear, otherwise your car would be fish tailing all over the place. Think about RWD for racing, when you launch, weight is transferred to the rear, thus rear wheels get more traction. By the same reasoning, when you brake, weight is transferred to the front, so the fronts have more traction and thus should receive more of the braking power. It works the same for FWD, except when you launch, you actually lose traction when the engine raises...I know first hand from having a supercharged FWD Grand Prix.
Hmm..thanks! That makes a lot of sense to me now....

supercharged FWD Grand Prix!!!!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SkyGliner
nope, no shuddering at high speeds...just squeky when braking...man..liars at BrakeMaster's...

How should it feel when I fun my fingernail across the rotor if it's not worn?
if you're fingernail catches on any deep grooves, then it's worn... i mean, it's all subjective, but it should be relatively smooth. and if the edges are much higher than the rest of the rotor, then it might need replacement (i.e. - too much of the rotor surface got eaten away).

To prevent your brakes from squeaking, buy a bottle of "Disk Brake Quiet" from any car parts store. It's in a blue bottle, and it sprays out this sticky blue gunk. Spread a thin layer of that stuff on the back of EACH brake pad (just make sure not to get it on the rotor or the part of the pad that touches the rotor). your brakes will never squeak or squeal again
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Indeed, I will go with OEM pads if you can find some at a reasonable price locally (or try private message Tony@RiversideInfiniti on this board), since you still have some meat on the rear pads and it might not be such a good idea to mix pads for front and rear applications.

(FYI: I only recommend this because you have 05 brakes. Unlike 03-04 oem brake pads, which are dusty and known to eat through rotors pretty quickly)

Just impress your bf to do the front brake pad changes for you lol.. You (or him) just have to take the wheel and caliper off to change the pads.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 06:24 PM
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Read the brake DIY and decide for yourself if you think you can handle the install yourself. It's not that hard at all though. Especially if it's just a pad repalcement.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:06 PM
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Thanks, Jeff92se, godmans, rockd, Dwyman and waltjrUM!

I am tempted to DIY it now..I will dig out the video and the posts...I will make you proud!!!!
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 07:28 PM
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Skys brakes....?

Why don't you and your b/f do the job togeather? Nothing works better than
working with a partner, make it a fun project. OEM pads wouldn't by my first
choice cause I don't like all that dust. My choice w/b Hawk HP pads, very little dust and they'll last twice as long. Check out our Marketplace for
local seller....Good Luck and Have Fun! Oh yea, replace all pads back and front!
Gary
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 08:00 PM
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The OEM pads do have more dust than Hawks and even Project MU.. the hawks and Project Mu doesnt bite quite as hard as the OEM's but the diofference is only a bit noticeable.


Have no fear to DIY.. if you know how to take off bolts and how to squeeze a set of plyers... YOU CAN DO IT!!! My dad showed me how to change brakes once and i've been able to figure out any car ever since... It really as easy as "cake walk" as someone mentioned.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:42 PM
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Where are you located OP? If you don't track or autocross the car, I recommend sticking with the stock pads. They have great initial bite, and can be had cheaply(less than $100 for all four). Also, they don't require high temps to work.

More aggressive pads will require more heat in them before they become effective. It's usually not a big deal, but in the winter(depending on location) it can be inconvenient for the first few miles.
 
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