Brake Squealing

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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 11:10 AM
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Brake Squealing

I am hearing a constant squealing noise at approx. 35 to 65 mph which seems to be coming from the right rear. I have noticed that brake dust is accumulating there at a faster than normal pace compared to the left rear wheel. If I tap the brakes the squeal stops for awhile then it comes back.

What could be causing this? Obviously the brake pad is rubbing against the rotor. But why? Thanks.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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Most likely you need new pads. If it's always squeeling and causing a lot more brake dust than usually, it's your pads wearing thin. Pick up a set of Hawk Pads and you'll be set. You won't have much, if any, brake dust with the hawk pads.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 02:23 PM
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I do a limited amount of spirited driving, and I have had to replace my rotors and pads 2 and 3 times, respectively, in about 80 k miles.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 10:21 PM
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I recently had one of the slider pins stick on a rear caliper. The boot had a small cut that allowed water to penetrate; over time, the pin rusted in position. While unusual, it could cause your symptom.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 06:46 PM
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On Closer Inspection

I found that all pads showed a lot of wear left with the exception of the right rear which just today started gouging the rotor. So its probably safe to say that the right rear brake caliper is not functioning properly. Perhaps its not releasing for some reason...?

Now, how do I get it to the dealer or mechanic without doing more damage to the rotor without having it towed?

Or would you suggest that I try to fix the issue myself? I have replaced rotors and pads on both my VW Jetta and Dodge RAM truck...
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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it's simple. there is a DIY for replacing pads and rotors. it's real simple. I'd say tackle it yourself
 
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Old Oct 15, 2008 | 07:50 PM
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So, I could change the pad and rotor, but how will I determine what the cause is for the wear only on this wheel. And once determining the cause, will I be able to fix it...?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:18 PM
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I would say after the brakes are fixed you try to jack up the rear end. Start the car and push on the brake, release the brake and make sure each wheel will turn with relative ease once the brake is released. If not the caliper may need to be rebuilt or replaced.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2008 | 01:24 PM
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Thank you. I will follow your advise and do the replacement of pads and rotors my self. I am hoping that the piston is dirty or perhaps a little rusty and I can clean it up to fix the problem.

So, I was considering purchasing the Hawk Performance Ceramic pads and Power Slot Rotor for both rear wheels. Once my front pads are worn, I will do the same there. Do you guys thing this is a good pad and rotor combo?

I was going to purchase from Tirerack.com. The rear pads are $69 for set and the rotors are $113 each. There is a $25 shipping fee. Is this a good price?
 
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 07:56 PM
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I replaced the rotor and pads on the wheel that had burned through the pads.

I test drove the car and the pads are still rubbing.

Could it be the pad slide clips are bad? They did seem to be a bit distorted. What else could be causing this?!?
 
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Old Oct 20, 2008 | 08:12 PM
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By the way. I tested the caliper to ensure that it operated smoothly by hand.

Found this via a google search. Maybe I'm having the same problem...

"it's possible the rubber brake line has deteriorated internally (plugged up) and is only letting fluid through one way. try replacing it around 20-30 bucks. what happens is when you apply your brake peddle you are pushing fluid through the line at several thousand psi (hydraulic pressure) when you release the peddle the fluid will flow back on its own. if the line is deteriorated theres not enough pressure for the fluid to low back through the line causing your caliper to stick on. hope this helps good luck"
 
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 12:06 PM
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I realize I have been talking to myself lately (ever since my post got moved consequently). But, I wanted to provide the update that I fixed the problem. I had to replace the caliper because the piston was not retracting. All is good now. Thanks for the help.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2008 | 12:23 PM
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Did you rebuild the caliper or did you just get a new one?
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 08:45 AM
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Good thread (at least for me). I have the same problem from the same caliper. It seems to be 'dragging'. I have the rotors & pads, but now am researching the possibilty of a caliper rebuild/replacement.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2008 | 09:34 AM
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I bought a new (refurbished) one from a local parts store.

It was $125 but I get $70 back when I return the old one.
 
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