Hey guys,

I'm planning on replacing my passenger front wheel hub assembly on my RWD G35 sedan 'cause the bearing is going.

I've read through the service manual thing on the front axle, and I have a few questions:

1) I need to remove both the caliper and the retaining bracket, so it's just 2 screws, right?
2) What is the wheel sensor and is it simple to remove? Any tips here?
3) It says I need a ball joint remover in order to do this job - is this true? Can it be done without this tool safely?
4) On a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most difficult, how would you guys rate this job?

Any additional tips you can offer would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance!

 

how can you tell that your bearing is going?

 

Multiple reasons:
1) turning the wheel when the car is on a jack causes a clicking sound
2) Travelling between 60-80 km/h causes a considerable vibration and a humming
3) making a turn to the opposite side of the bad bearing causes the vibration to become more severe (or a lower speed is required to make it start)

 

It super easy

1. Remove wheel
2. Remove caliper (2 bolts) and pads
3. Remove caliper bracket (2 bolts)
4. Remove rotor
5. Remove sensor (1 bolt)
6. Remove Wheel bearing (4 bolts)

That easy. Just find the torque specs. Also this is if you got the wheel bearing with the wheel hub.

 

So - I just attempted this job myself.

Yes...it is a VERY easy job. I was down to the LAST hub bolt, but the damn thing wouldn't come out. Unfortunately it is directly adjacent to the control arm which made it impossible to get a socket entirely around it. I tried WD-40 equivalent, then changed from a socket to box wrench, then to vice grips - all I managed to do was tear up the damn bolt. Now I am worried that the head is stripped to the point that the shop may have a hell of a time getting it out. In addition, I tried heating the bolt, but didn't realize that the back of the old bearing/hub housing was made of plastic and ended up melting part of it....argh...

Think it is still okay to drive the 6km (4 miles) to the shop with the bearing back plastic covering melted? Not only is this the case but the damn bearing itself is pretty bad...

I ended up putting everything back together and retorquing all the bolts to spec.

Here's the question - Should I drive my G the 6 km or have it towed to the shop tomorrow?

And please don't post to tell me how much of an idiot I am - thanks...but I'm already aware.

 

It was easy for my flex head rachet to fit into the area to remove the hub bolts. Just don't forget to use an extension.

 

Thanks for the inspiration! I am going to change mine this weekend. The FSM said to remove the tie rod and ball joint, but I knew it was unnecessary. Hopefully I will be able to do this and keep my alignment.

Thanks,
Aaron

 

What did you end up doing? How did it work out? Honestly, I am becoming more and more of a DIY'er and the best thing I ever purchased was an impact gun and an air compressor. This thing makes life soooo much easier.

 

took it to the shop.

Ended up being that had I just rotated the steering knuckle a little this would have allowed enough clearance to get the entire socket on the head of the bolt. Argh...I was so close.

I agree wholeheartedly about the impact gun but unfortunately I don't have room. I just rent my place. I figure once I buy a bigger place I will have more room to put a sweet *** air compressor and make my life a whole lot simpler.