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I forgot to say get the name of the shop so you can go down there and speak with them and get them to be on point with your issue, like I am doing. If you go to the shop, you will avoid the profit the Dealer will tack on to your bill.
After 8 years of ownership I am sick and tired of going through a zillion tires due to excessive rear negative camber. Is there anything short of getting a camber kit which includes camber arms? Does increasing the size of the toe slot do anything without getting different arms? I'm not crazy about the aftermarket kits. Thanks all.
After 8 years of ownership I am sick and tired of going through a zillion tires due to excessive rear negative camber. Is there anything short of getting a camber kit which includes camber arms? Does increasing the size of the toe slot do anything without getting different arms? I'm not crazy about the aftermarket kits. Thanks all.
It is NOT your camber. Camber does not affect the rate of wear, only the area.
Your toe is causing the excessive wear. Eibach/SPC make toe bolts that replace the stock bolt between the spring bucket(mid-link) and subframe. That hole in the SUBFRAME needs to be elongated in order to be able to adjust the the bolt.
With the car parked, you should be a little toe in, due to the bushings flexing backward @ speed. How ever, if it is quite noticeable and you are dropped beyond 1 in, you need an alignment.
I would recommend getting a 1 year alignment. Shops set these up because most drivers will pay the extra price and not take advantage of it. I have a friend did this and was almost threatened into getting his money back. Win-win situation lmao.
It is NOT your camber. Camber does not affect the rate of wear, only the area.
Your toe is causing the excessive wear. Eibach/SPC make toe bolts that replace the stock bolt between the spring bucket(mid-link) and subframe. That hole in the SUBFRAME needs to be elongated in order to be able to adjust the the bolt.
With the car parked, you should be a little toe in, due to the bushings flexing backward @ speed. How ever, if it is quite noticeable and you are dropped beyond 1 in, you need an alignment.
I would recommend getting a 1 year alignment. Shops set these up because most drivers will pay the extra price and not take advantage of it. I have a friend did this and was almost threatened into getting his money back. Win-win situation lmao.
Thanks for the feedback. I apologize for not describing my tire issue properly. Inside tire wear. Unfortunately, it is the camber. My car has never been lowered and is completely stock with 17s. Since I purchased my car in 2003 the rear inside treads wear prematurely, especially the right rear. There is not much feathering just inside wear. The negative camber cannot be reduced further than -1.3right and -1.4left. I wish it was as easy as changing the toe bolts.
Last edited by bocatrip; Aug 26, 2011 at 12:50 AM.
My tires. especially the front tires wear excessively on the inside. I am told you cannot align them and you need to replace them that are adjustable. Are the following struts the correct for the front and rear? I guess there is not a thumbnail image option?
2005 g35 coupe automatic
Normal camber wear is the angle that the tires wear at, this doesn't make the tires wear out any faster, it just wears at a slight angle. If you are experiencing fast tires wear it's probably a toe issue unless you are more than 1" lower on the stock suspension.
Check the adjustment range on those components before you order, compare to your most recent alignment report and make sure it will have enough adjustment to get back to OEM spec.
When I took my car to a tire and alignment center (Les Schwab) to get an alignment, the technician told me the factory struts could not be adjusted and gave me a price of ~ $1000 to install adjustable ones. So, I am educating myself, I am not a mechanic. Does it matter if I go to a 'mechanic' or a tire center? I do not know about the bushings?
I would be wary of a tire shop installing adjustable arms for camber without telling you which they are. Camber bolts aren't a thing with G35s and a lot of people think there are cheap alternatives to camber kits... tru hart or Kinetix ftw.
If I understand, 'toe' means the wheels are not parallel to each other, so that would cause the inside to wear faster? Would 'camber' also wear the inside out faster? See attached image I am trying to understand this. Thanks
Your image is camber. Bad toe is when the wheels are not running parallel to the direction of travel, so they are scuffing along the pavement. Think an image of pigeon-toe.