Opinion on ricey mod.
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From: pinellas county FLA, queens N.Y.
apart from anything else that is most important ..
toymachine:
i think thats what you should consider whene cutting your springs ..
"unrevised" refers to the rear springs on a Z and are only found on 03-04 Zs. They have the same spring rate as our sport suspension equipped sedans, so you can use your stock struts and shocks. Revised come on the 05-08 Zs and have a stiffer spring rate in the rear, so you would need appropriate shocks. All 350Z springs will give the sedan about a 1-1.5" drop in the front and a 1" inch drop in the rear. About a 2-3 finger gap all around. You still may need a camber kit but it wont be as necessary if you go lower. Also anytime you lower a car you need to do an re-alignment.
yes of course thanks everyone and to the posts about lower class people buying the G. I am not lower class I have had my G for over 2 years.. Im 18 and I just dont have an extra couple hundred laying around to drop my car.
Car lowering 101
Now let’s start with rice tip number 1. If springs control ride height, why not just cut the tip of the spring to lower the car? No no no no no. Springs on car are what we call progressive springs. It basically means the more you compress it, the harder it becomes to compress it. Say it take 30lbs to compress the spring a half inch. It would take 100lbs to compress it another half inch. The next half inch might take 500lbs. Why is this important? When you hit a small bump, the springs and shocks are suppose to compress allowing the wheel to move smoothly over it. If you cut the springs, now all of the sudden that small bump isn’t enough to compress the spring so the car will now jump over the bump. Remember a car in the air has less contact with the road. That’s VERY VERY dangerous and hence rice tip number 1 is NEVER cut your springs to lower the car.
Next is rice tip number 2. Now that you know not to cut springs, you will now buy lowering springs but use the OEM shocks (OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer or stock or what came with the car). By lowering the car, you are compressing the shock and forcing the shock to travel a shorter distance but at a much higher frequency. Remember shocks are made to dampen the bounce. Each shock has a certain operating range. Shocks that came with your car is not meant to be compressed for long periods of time while at the same time traveling short distances very very quickly. The car might feel fine at the beginning but you will quickly boil the oil inside the shocks (having the shock travel really quickly) and thus blow out the shock and render it useless. So rice tip number 2 is to make sure you buy the springs AND shocks when you lower the car.
Now let’s start with rice tip number 1. If springs control ride height, why not just cut the tip of the spring to lower the car? No no no no no. Springs on car are what we call progressive springs. It basically means the more you compress it, the harder it becomes to compress it. Say it take 30lbs to compress the spring a half inch. It would take 100lbs to compress it another half inch. The next half inch might take 500lbs. Why is this important? When you hit a small bump, the springs and shocks are suppose to compress allowing the wheel to move smoothly over it. If you cut the springs, now all of the sudden that small bump isn’t enough to compress the spring so the car will now jump over the bump. Remember a car in the air has less contact with the road. That’s VERY VERY dangerous and hence rice tip number 1 is NEVER cut your springs to lower the car.
Next is rice tip number 2. Now that you know not to cut springs, you will now buy lowering springs but use the OEM shocks (OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer or stock or what came with the car). By lowering the car, you are compressing the shock and forcing the shock to travel a shorter distance but at a much higher frequency. Remember shocks are made to dampen the bounce. Each shock has a certain operating range. Shocks that came with your car is not meant to be compressed for long periods of time while at the same time traveling short distances very very quickly. The car might feel fine at the beginning but you will quickly boil the oil inside the shocks (having the shock travel really quickly) and thus blow out the shock and render it useless. So rice tip number 2 is to make sure you buy the springs AND shocks when you lower the car.
Car lowering 101
Now let’s start with rice tip number 1. If springs control ride height, why not just cut the tip of the spring to lower the car? No no no no no. Springs on car are what we call progressive springs. It basically means the more you compress it, the harder it becomes to compress it. Say it take 30lbs to compress the spring a half inch. It would take 100lbs to compress it another half inch. The next half inch might take 500lbs. Why is this important? When you hit a small bump, the springs and shocks are suppose to compress allowing the wheel to move smoothly over it. If you cut the springs, now all of the sudden that small bump isn’t enough to compress the spring so the car will now jump over the bump. Remember a car in the air has less contact with the road. That’s VERY VERY dangerous and hence rice tip number 1 is NEVER cut your springs to lower the car.
Next is rice tip number 2. Now that you know not to cut springs, you will now buy lowering springs but use the OEM shocks (OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer or stock or what came with the car). By lowering the car, you are compressing the shock and forcing the shock to travel a shorter distance but at a much higher frequency. Remember shocks are made to dampen the bounce. Each shock has a certain operating range. Shocks that came with your car is not meant to be compressed for long periods of time while at the same time traveling short distances very very quickly. The car might feel fine at the beginning but you will quickly boil the oil inside the shocks (having the shock travel really quickly) and thus blow out the shock and render it useless. So rice tip number 2 is to make sure you buy the springs AND shocks when you lower the car.
Now let’s start with rice tip number 1. If springs control ride height, why not just cut the tip of the spring to lower the car? No no no no no. Springs on car are what we call progressive springs. It basically means the more you compress it, the harder it becomes to compress it. Say it take 30lbs to compress the spring a half inch. It would take 100lbs to compress it another half inch. The next half inch might take 500lbs. Why is this important? When you hit a small bump, the springs and shocks are suppose to compress allowing the wheel to move smoothly over it. If you cut the springs, now all of the sudden that small bump isn’t enough to compress the spring so the car will now jump over the bump. Remember a car in the air has less contact with the road. That’s VERY VERY dangerous and hence rice tip number 1 is NEVER cut your springs to lower the car.
Next is rice tip number 2. Now that you know not to cut springs, you will now buy lowering springs but use the OEM shocks (OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer or stock or what came with the car). By lowering the car, you are compressing the shock and forcing the shock to travel a shorter distance but at a much higher frequency. Remember shocks are made to dampen the bounce. Each shock has a certain operating range. Shocks that came with your car is not meant to be compressed for long periods of time while at the same time traveling short distances very very quickly. The car might feel fine at the beginning but you will quickly boil the oil inside the shocks (having the shock travel really quickly) and thus blow out the shock and render it useless. So rice tip number 2 is to make sure you buy the springs AND shocks when you lower the car.
Cutting, heating or using lowering blocks are all really bad ideas.
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