Hey guys,

My drivers front wheel is squeeking when driving. The squeeking goes away with braking and doesn't change with turning. I threw the car up on jacks, pulled off the rim/tire, and spun the rotor - the pads appear to be catching the rotor at a certain point in the rotation. I suspect, as a result, that the squeeking is a result of a warped rotor.

Does this sound right?

I know that I could simply maching the rotor, but I figure the rotor is likely not thick enough to allow this and last a while longer, so I may as well buy oem replacement rotors. I have already purchased hawk ceramic pads and they are in the mail.

Next question - if I'm replacing the front rotors, should I just replace the back ones at the same time?

Finally - I'm looking at oem replacement rotors and found a few (EBC, Centric, and everything g35 no-name). Anyone else have any other suggestions for good ones.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/fe...461454843.html

http://www.g35parts.com/9083/osc/pro...22c02f4ba1451e

http://www2.partstrain.com/store/det...ml#eas-reviews

Thanks in advance for any help!!

 

I was looking into getting Stillen slotted/drilled rotors next time I need a brake job..anyone used these before? Stillen website says they are direct replacement to OEM rotors and work with the OEM calipers.

Here's the link:

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=BPSPTROTR01&c=BR

 

For the record - I am looking for blank (ie. non slotted/drilled) rotors. Suggestions as per that would be great.

 

Sounds like the pad warning line and you need new brake pads.

Hawk HPS are great pads for the street. I ran them with my last BBK before the Rotoras and was happy with them.

If you want to keep your oem rotors you can always see if a shop (even some parts stores) can still turn them. They can measure to see if there's enough life on them to turn.

 

I had the same problem last month. I thought it was the brakes also. But no, because the squeaking sound came back after I did a maintenance on my brakes. So, I ask myself why it squeaks when Im cruizing, and when I applied the brake the squeaking sound stops. And it only squeaks on Front Driver side. It can't be the brakes. And I was right, it was the Hub. I lifted the car and shook the Front Driver side wheel (where the squeaking sound coming from) and I can hear a clicking sound. There goes the culprit. I might of F it up when I hit that huge pot hole 3 months back.

So, I order the parts online because it's cheaper than getting it directly from the local dealership. I also save by ordering out of state to get away with rediculous taxation here in Cali. Shipping is also free. Cost me 130 while the dealership trying to jack me for 230+ tax.

I replaced the hub over the weekend. I find it easy because I did the brake job before. Just like the same steps of doing maintenance on your front brakes and adding more steps to remove the 4 bolts behind the rotors to disassemble the Hub. Since then.. no more squeaking sound. Just the rumble noise of signature sound of good o'l G35 exhaust

I will soon post instructions(w/ pics).

 

I have the black-hat Centric (your 3rd link) and they are almost squeak-free. And if they do begin to squeak, a little bit of spirited driving takes care of it. for the price, you get great rotors, but honestly, i would get Stillens if I was doing it again.

 

Thanks for all your posts. I'll check the hub this weekend. I've already replaced my passenger hub, although the noise it made was different... I'll keep you all posted.

 

Important to understand a few things about rotors:
The 2 braking faces are separated by supports and air thus the contact surface represents less than 50% of the weight, so 8-9mm per side of metal can safely be cut down by 1mm per side and only reduce the rotor weight by 1.0> 1.2 pounds max this ~ 5% reduction will only increase single stop rotor temperature by 10F in a 60 mph panic stop.

Obviously a single FULL stop from 120 or 150 depends on a new rotor thickness to avoid exceeding [adding] 600>900F to ambient rotor temperature.
When you double speed rotor temp quadruples in a single stop.

The major problem in cutting rotors is the rubber seal on caliper pistons can only extend so far without blowing out and losing brake fluid.

OEM sets minimum rotor thickness so that with a totally worn out pad the piston won't extend too far and cause a sudden loss of brakes.

 

wow .. learn something new everyday ..