Who's Using SPL Version 2 A-Arms?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Rate Thread
 
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #16  
mesias's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
Do you "feel" any difference with the v2?
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 06:40 PM
  #17  
redlude97's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by OCG35
I think what he means is if you are sitting with a lot of negative camber already, these wont get you back out more than 1 degree positive… as most know, when you are lowered more than mild, the camber is aggressively negative – with the v1 arms there was a lot of adjustability… if I were to use OEM A-arms with the springs I’m on, it would be more than –3… with the v-1 SPL I could set it to 0 if desired.

I had the v-2 installed Sat and with all the spacers in it still was –2.5 (sitting 1.5 with v-1)… but taking out 2 full turns from snug on the caster adjusting bolts gave another +1 camber (I referring to the bolts on the backside of the chassis mount)… the bad thing is you have to take the arms completely off to adjust those.

I don’t think the caster adjusters were intended to be used for more positive camber, but it worked… however, I haven’t checked the caster specs so I’m not sure if they are on or not (in theory if both bolts are the exact same length when adjusted it shouldnt effect caster) – I’ll find out later when I have time for full alignment.
The V1 arms could physically be set to more than 1 degree positive correction, but there isn't enough room in the fenderwell to allow for the lengthened arm. It will hit the fenderwell. Ask Kuah himself, he will tell you the same thing.
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #18  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
well I dont know what to tell you or Kuah... when I was on Eibach pro with 17" I used OEM a-arms and stayed in spec... when I went 19" it was more than -3... I put v-1 on and got it to less than -1 (more than +1 adjustment).

Is it possible that sedan fender well has more room than coupe?

Currently I'm on sportline with 19 X 8.5 +35 with 25mm spacer and flared fender... I was able to get to -1.5 (I can assure you that OEM arms would be way more than -2.5)...

So for whatever reason I am getting more than one-degree positive adjustment.

Remember, I'm not saying I'm running +1 (and neither is the other guy)... I'm saying I was able to get more than +1 adjustment.

Edit: also realize these are sedan spec wheels (19X8.5 +35)... even though now I have 25mm spacers & flared fenders...
 

Last edited by OCG35; Sep 7, 2009 at 07:14 PM.
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #19  
redlude97's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by OCG35
well I dont know what to tell you or Kuah... when I was on Eibach pro with 17" I used OEM a-arms and stayed in spec... when I went 19" it was more than -3... I put v-1 on and got it to less than -1 (more than +1 adjustment).

Is it possible that sedan fender well has more room than coupe?

Currently I'm on sportline with 19 X 8.5 +35 with 25mm spacer and flared fender... I was able to get to -1.5 (I can assure you that OEM arms would be way more than -2.5)...

So for whatever reason I am getting more than one-degree positive adjustment.

Remember, I'm not saying I'm running +1 (and neither is the other guy)... I'm saying I was able to get more than +1 adjustment.
thats possible, I forgot you had a sedan. Also, the 1 degree of positive adjustment is in relation to a coupe/350z. What sportlines are you on(Sedan?) You aren't as low as some 350z/coupe either in relation to their drops so that is another potential reason since sedans start out 1" higher
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:25 PM
  #20  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by redlude97
thats possible, I forgot you had a sedan. Also, the 1 degree of positive adjustment is in relation to a coupe/350z. What sportlines are you on(Sedan?) You aren't as low as some 350z/coupe either in relation to their drops so that is another potential reason since sedans start out 1" higher
wheel is tucked (its pretty low).

Edit: to clarify - "tire" is partially tucked...
 

Last edited by OCG35; Sep 7, 2009 at 07:38 PM.
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:26 PM
  #21  
mesias's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
So, have you noticed any noticeable benefit on the upgrade? I'm still seeing the same bolt on top of the ball joint and the same numbers of adjustment.

EDIT: They look nicer and adjustment seems easier.
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by mesias
So, have you noticed any noticeable benefit on the upgrade? I'm still seeing the same bolt on top of the ball joint and the same numbers of adjustment.
oopps - the last was an edit on my post (page jumped just as I clicked edit and ended up quoting you, sorry)...

to answer you question ~

I’ve only driven the car for a couple days… and I don’t normally drive it much at all – plus I recently added 25mm spacers (which changed the feel much more than I anticipated)… I haven’t pushed hard in any corners and of course haven’t been on track yet – so it’s hard for me to say whether its “feels” any different.

In general I do like the design better… its not nearly as adjustable as v-1 and not convenient at all to adjust caster (no biggie) – but what I like most is the configuration is more solid (all the adjustability of v-1 lead to too much play on mine and the driver side outside bolt kept working its way out)…

So far these feel solid. But I have an issue that I was never able to diagnose until yesterday… I had a constant clunk – and thought it was the bolt that kept working its way out (it was when it got loose)… when I tightened it, the clunk would get better (but never went away)… For the helluvit I replaced compression rod bushing and lower control arm bushings (waste of money ‘cause they didn’t need to be replaced and it wasn’t my clunk issue)…

After installing v-2 I was pulling on various points to replicate the clunk (yes it still occurred with v-2 while driving)… and found that the outer mount (the ball joint/cone that sets in to the spindle) has minute play – not enough to move it around but when thumped with my thumb it had soft clunk (passenger side is solid)…

What I think happened was – when the v-1 bolt would work loose I think the cone banging into the seat in the spindle cause it to become less than true (very slight, but deformed enough to where it doesnt seat snug)… so I’m going to source another spindle/knuckle/whatever its called and see if my clunk goes away.

Sorry, that’s not the answer you were looking for, but its what I got. I installed akebono brakes at the same time – so there are too many new/different things and too little driving yet for me to give a decent “driving” review.
 

Last edited by OCG35; Sep 7, 2009 at 07:51 PM.
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #23  
mesias's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 469
Likes: 0
From: South Florida
Originally Posted by OCG35
Edit: to clarify - "tire" is partially tucked...
Sorry, I didn't get it.
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #24  
redlude97's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
Originally Posted by OCG35
wheel is tucked (its pretty low).

Edit: to clarify - "tire" is partially tucked...
which sportlines
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:54 PM
  #25  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by mesias
Sorry, I didn't get it.
see edit above
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:56 PM
  #26  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by redlude97
which sportlines
as far as I know sedan... bought used form a sedan owner.

Had a photo shoot today - when I get the pics I'll post one so you can see the ride height...
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:03 PM
  #27  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
these are the only pics I have right now to show ride height (from when the car was still in the body shop) - and no, thats not me in the reflection (its my buddy Southbaygsedan).



 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:06 PM
  #28  
redlude97's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
If they are sedan sportlines, then they provided a 1.6" drop all around. If they were installed on a coupe they would net ~1.1" drop and only a .6" drop on a 350z. These drop amounts on a coupe/350z can have their camber easily corrected above -1.5. The suspension is the same, the body panels/mounting points are what are different, so being tucked on a sedan isn't nearly the same as being tucked on a coupe/350z in terms of the position of the suspension in relation to the arc the suspension travels through. I'm willing to bet the length you set your arms at to get to -1.5 is much shorter than the length a 350z would lengthen the arms to to get back to -1.5
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:15 PM
  #29  
redlude97's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,911
Likes: 8
From: Seattle, WA
btw, thats a pretty clean mold job on the fenders and the flare is also a good touch
 
Reply
Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:49 PM
  #30  
OCG35's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
iTrader: (33)
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by redlude97
If they are sedan sportlines, then they provided a 1.6" drop all around. If they were installed on a coupe they would net ~1.1" drop and only a .6" drop on a 350z. These drop amounts on a coupe/350z can have their camber easily corrected above -1.5. The suspension is the same, the body panels/mounting points are what are different, so being tucked on a sedan isn't nearly the same as being tucked on a coupe/350z in terms of the position of the suspension in relation to the arc the suspension travels through. I'm willing to bet the length you set your arms at to get to -1.5 is much shorter than the length a 350z would lengthen the arms to to get back to -1.5
Yeah, I figure the same thing.

Originally Posted by redlude97
btw, thats a pretty clean mold job on the fenders and the flare is also a good touch
thanks – Auto Explosion does great work… while I’m giving shop credit, gotta thank Temple City Auto for their help getting the suspension, brakes and wheels in check ~
 
Reply


You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:37 AM.