I currently have HKS Hypermax III's, non-sport, which have spring rates of 9 kg all around. I need at least 12 kg all around and speaking with HKS they don't recommend going with more than 2 kg than original, otherwise it would need a revalve.

I was wondering if anyone has recommendations as to where I can get my shocks revalved and approx how much it would cost. Going through HKS I believe I was quote at 300 or 400 each shock. Paying 1,200 - 1,500 is not worth it to me as I would rather look into another set of coilovers or go with air bags.

 

I would save your self the headache and sell your current ones and buy a setup that is the stiffness that you want.

 

Go with bags or get a set of Stance coils.
-GP-

 

Yeah, that's what I'm currently looking at, but not too many coilovers that have the same build quality and performance the HKS offers...especially within the budget I have, unless I can somehow find them used.

I would really like bags, but can't afford a new set, I'm looking at approx 3,500 for them (installed) whereas coilovers will cost a quarter to a third of that. Bags are definitely something I will do in the future, but unless I can find them used, I can't really go with that setup now.

 

HKS coils aren't all that great quality, they're the same design as Tein CS/Flex, There is no pre-load setting once you go low enough and i'm sure you're at that point, i know i was on my Basics. With Stance you can set the pre-load and they're a true coilover. The quality and price of Stance is the best you can get in any coilover priced under $2k.
-GP-

 

Currently I'm not too low, at least in the rear...i'm eating tires, so I need 'em raised up. I'm currently looking into the Stance GR+...is that the one you're recommending? Also considering the Tein Flex as they have stiffer spring rates.

 

I love my tien flex, I have them on max stiff and the car is rock solid. I barely rub even over a big dip in the road. I thinking I can go a tad lower.

 

Good to know, right now I have a 4 tone paint job on my fenders....IP with yellow, brown, and bare metal

 

GR+ are very nice. I personally have the LX+ but they arent stiff enough for a super aggressive setup like yours. I've seen a few sets of the GR+ and GR+PRO's used with low miles going for $850 here on the forum... can't beat that price for a set of coils that outperforms Tein and HKS any day.
-GP-

 

I hear you on the bare metal fenders... i rubbed all the paint off the inside lip on my front fenders 2 days after i had a brand new set freshly painted... but you gotta pay to play aggressive. I'm only on an 20x8.5 +20 with a 225/35, can't imagine how you turn with your setup Levon.
-GP-

 

Mine are also rubbed raw, like he said you got to pay play. Then I turned the siffness up to max problem solved.

 

Ouch, that really sucks...well, to give you an idea, here's what it's looking like so far.





I need a few more mm out of the pull and it will help alot, but then it's not about the tires anymore, it's the lip of the wheel hitting the fender...I'd much rather the tires rub than my wheels, lol.

Can anyone tell me what tires I have? lol...

 

Hankook V4... same thing i have on my rears, i did similar damage in the rear, but not as bad. My fenders were rolled but i didn't get them flat so i drove it rubbing all the way home, decent heat ring on the sidewall but my store has let customers go with worse. Got home, rolled the fenders flat with a torque wrench and now it's all good
-GP-

 

Lol, you know the tread pattern...guess I can't get away by saying I have "custom" tires...jk.

How the heck did you roll with a torque wrench? That's crazy.

 

My wooden dowel dissappeared and the handle end of the torque wrench is circular and the only thing i had around that didn't bend when i applied pressure... it actually worked like a freakin charm got the fenders completely flat now. what can i say? i'm like a McGyver mechanic, haha.
-GP-