Better handling, where to start?

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  #31  
Old 11-23-2009, 10:19 AM
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True, 05' endlinks are just a bandaid. They are for the birds. Went with Whiteline adjustables front and rear.
 
  #32  
Old 11-23-2009, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by SwivelHips
Not to re-start the age-old SPL vs Powergrid argument, but IMO a heim joint (SPL) is far better/stronger than a threaded cast rod end (Powergrid). I'd worry about it cracking. I will go with the SPLs -- someday when I get the money, LOL!
the main reason i didnt like the spl's is due to the spherical bearing being exposed to the elements. all u need is a bunch of sand and dirt eating away at that and the endlink is toast. Im not a powergrid fan boi, but i researched for months before taking the plunge, my conclusion is the power grids are the best. they also came highly recommended from Z1 due to this "closed" bearing design.
 
  #33  
Old 11-23-2009, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by CreativeDesignZ
definitely put your sway bars back on. What kind of tires are you rollin on? If your on stock tires or stock rims, there is your problem
I am on Nitto INVOs, 275/35/19 and 245/35/19. Like I said, with the sway bars on, even at the softest setting, the car can NOT keep any type of traction and just starts sliding at like 35 mph. I had talked to TH Motorsports and gone through about 4-5 different setups and no sways has been far better than any other setup Ive tried.

Anyone else with coilovers with VERY high spring rates having issues like this? Lookin at you dofu, JIC coilovers have almost the same spring rate as the Cuscos, How were you able to have your sways still on and have traction?? Is it something about the height/rake?? Right now, my front outside tire always slips first, in fact, its the only thing that slips, the rears are on rails.
 
  #34  
Old 11-23-2009, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by DefJukie
Maybe you guys can help me out with my suspension tuning issues. I started with Cusco sway bars, then got some GT Spec bracing and bars, then finally got some Cusco Zero2 coils and a FSTB.

Up until I got the coilovers, handling kept improving and I could take turns quicker and easier, much better than stock. Then the coilovers went on, only about 1/4 inch lower than stock, and i had no body roll at all but didn't have traction either. Turns I used to take at 50 I could only take at ~42 now before losing traction, though it was very easy to control.

I've tried all kinds of setups with the coilovers and currently, I am running with no sway bars at all, neither Cusco nor stock. This is the best I have found so far and I am taking that turn around 56. From what I am guessing, the front spring is farrr too stiff and thus removing the sways and letting the suspension work independently has helped a lot. What else can I try to help improve this????

Spring rates 560/392

Stiffness settings for the front/rear sways: Front - 120% and 137% stiffer than stock. Rear - 173% stiffer than stock (22 mm).
The coilovers are most likely way too stiff. Change them out for a softer spring and strut setup and I'm willing to bet you'll see better results. Stiff sway bars aren't a bad thing, but if your struts and springs are too stiff, you've eliminate sway and you'll just get tons of understeer because you need energy transfer. Just remember that you chassis can never be too stiff, but your suspension can.

Manufacturers build their cars with a decent amount of body sway when you turn for a reason... You want your car to sway a bit when you turn, just not a whole lot like how most stock cars do. Reason being is that your outside wheels need more weight for more traction to be able to travel a longer distance in the same amount of time than the inside. If inside and outside wheels have the same amount of traction and are moving at the same speed, you'd be driving straight, no?

The spring rates seem mismatched to me... and the spring rates do seem to be a bit too high to be practical at all to me. It looks like a drift setup more than anything, as eliminating front sway is one way drifters setup their cars. I had the JIC VIPs so the spring rates are no where near... I'm currently on Z S-Techs which are much stiffer, but they're still nowhere near your spring rates. I do lift the rear a bit to get the rear to kick out a bit easier for just a bit more oversteer too.
 

Last edited by dofu; 11-23-2009 at 12:41 PM.
  #35  
Old 11-23-2009, 01:04 PM
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i have 10k front and 8k in the rear on my greddy type-s coils your suspension is not too stiff.
 
  #36  
Old 11-23-2009, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CreativeDesignZ
i have 10k front and 8k in the rear on my greddy type-s coils your suspension is not too stiff.
I have no clue what you are talking about with 10k, 8k... we measure by lbs here in the states... Greddy Type-S coilovers spring rates are 560/448, which IMO would be better matched than the Cuscos. I would still say the front is a bit too stiff to be practical, but it's still more balanced than the Cuscos. Come down to it, balance is ultimately more important than name brands or what others say is the "best".
 
  #37  
Old 11-23-2009, 06:06 PM
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lol i live in the US, and most coil overs are made in japan, they measure by kilo per mm.
 
  #38  
Old 11-23-2009, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by dofu
I have no clue what you are talking about with 10k, 8k... we measure by lbs here in the states... Greddy Type-S coilovers spring rates are 560/448, which IMO would be better matched than the Cuscos. I would still say the front is a bit too stiff to be practical, but it's still more balanced than the Cuscos. Come down to it, balance is ultimately more important than name brands or what others say is the "best".
lol is this really the first time you've heard of coils measured in kilos? tein, apexi, greddy, hks, jic magic, k-sport, and tanabe all use kilos.
 
  #39  
Old 11-24-2009, 02:01 AM
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Theres only three more things I can think of trying that may work, what do you guys think about:

1. installing the rear stock sway bar only with no front sway bar.
2. installing Cusco rear sway bar and stock front sway bar
3. raising up the rear quite a bit and maybe lowering the front (the rears are currently a tiny bit lower than the fronts)
 
  #40  
Old 11-24-2009, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by C
lol is this really the first time you've heard of coils measured in kilos? tein, apexi, greddy, hks, jic magic, k-sport, and tanabe all use kilos.
I have but I'm not gonna be able to look at those numbers and know what specs I'm looking at until I pull out a calculator, etc... and even then, I don't see how 560/448 lbs is 10k/8k...
 
  #41  
Old 11-24-2009, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dofu
I have but I'm not gonna be able to look at those numbers and know what specs I'm looking at until I pull out a calculator, etc... and even then, I don't see how 560/448 lbs is 10k/8k...
Just guessing here, but if it means 10k(ilograms per mm) that's 22lbf/mm x 25.4 mm/in = 558.8lbf/in

Am I close? What do I win?
 
  #42  
Old 11-24-2009, 04:56 PM
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Imperial FTL

Rebel... uhh I mean metric FTW
 
  #43  
Old 11-25-2009, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SwivelHips
Just guessing here, but if it means 10k(ilograms per mm) that's 22lbf/mm x 25.4 mm/in = 558.8lbf/in

Am I close? What do I win?
Dude, I might be Chinese but that doesn't automatically make me good at math, especially with a measurement I don't use often.
 
  #44  
Old 11-25-2009, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by DefJukie
Theres only three more things I can think of trying that may work, what do you guys think about:

1. installing the rear stock sway bar only with no front sway bar.
2. installing Cusco rear sway bar and stock front sway bar
3. raising up the rear quite a bit and maybe lowering the front (the rears are currently a tiny bit lower than the fronts)
Technically, some coilovers are good as is without any other mods for street cars because their spring rates are so high... Maybe a little chassis bracing to stiffen the chassis might help improve things more, but thicker or more dense sway bars would just be overkill. I really think he would be good with just the stock sway bars and a few braces from here, but that really isn't the way I would do it since springs do tend to soften a bit over time and sag.
 
  #45  
Old 11-25-2009, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dofu
Dude, I might be Chinese but that doesn't automatically make me good at math, especially with a measurement I don't use often.
i had said in a previous that they were kg per MM, its not that hard to do that math...for someone acting to be a suspension guru its kinda sad u dont know that lol
 


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