Identifying OEM front calipers 05/06
from on another forum northwave0114
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I had this exact same problem. My friend from a Toyota dealer (diagnostic specialist) said it was sipping air somewhere, probably the calipers. It took 5 tries by Infiniti to try to resolve it. 1)changed master 2)turned front rotors 3)changed ABS actuator 4) Then techs started saying this is normal after all the previous attempts, Bunch of BS 5) It reached Infinitis regional diagnostic tech specialist, he and my frieind from toyota talked/agreed they would try new calipers and rotors. Problem solved, they are not Brembos but I dont have to pump the brakes when on the freeway offramp.
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I had this exact same problem. My friend from a Toyota dealer (diagnostic specialist) said it was sipping air somewhere, probably the calipers. It took 5 tries by Infiniti to try to resolve it. 1)changed master 2)turned front rotors 3)changed ABS actuator 4) Then techs started saying this is normal after all the previous attempts, Bunch of BS 5) It reached Infinitis regional diagnostic tech specialist, he and my frieind from toyota talked/agreed they would try new calipers and rotors. Problem solved, they are not Brembos but I dont have to pump the brakes when on the freeway offramp.
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u said "But this is excessive. It's not a very slight thing really. I have about 1-1.5" of dead travel before i can begin to modulate the brakes. If i push and then lift and pump down again, the brake pedal grabs near the top where it should." and i agree...i only have about 1-2 inches of stopping power the firs 1-1.5 of the brakes do nothing (maybe start to hold the back brakes) BUT THIS IS DRIVING ME CRAZY .....i will change the rotor, pads, claiper, next 2-3 weeks...i will let u know
Did u ever have a problem when you are doing about 100 and trying to stop with out the double pump?....I did! this is what happen, i got the dead 1-1.5 pedal and then held it down firmly and the car did not stop quick enough...my 96 maxima stops faster (even with abs going crazy on the max).....basically i was scared and shocked that the car didn't stop...i was about 10 feet away from slamming into the divider! and i am just a daily driver on this car and it stops like **** and the Loaners they gave me will send me through the window...
Did some research and found http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...brembos-2.html
and might just buy this
http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Moti...ers-144-1.html
and might just buy this
http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/Moti...ers-144-1.html
I know that there is a STILLEN master cylinder damper/brace that was made to keep the MC from "diving" when you depress the brakes.
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...NITI&model=G35 4DR
Pop your hood and have someone press the brake pedal while you are watching the MC. If you see it dive forward, you will probably benefit greatly from the brace.
I've read about people having air get in from draining it all the way and not being able to remove the air without going to the dealer, like you mentioned you have read.
Also, I don't know if you ever replaced your brake lines with SS braided, but thats a beneficial piece.
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...NITI&model=G35 4DR
Pop your hood and have someone press the brake pedal while you are watching the MC. If you see it dive forward, you will probably benefit greatly from the brace.
I've read about people having air get in from draining it all the way and not being able to remove the air without going to the dealer, like you mentioned you have read.
Also, I don't know if you ever replaced your brake lines with SS braided, but thats a beneficial piece.
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,818
Likes: 468
From: Taxachusetts
I know that there is a STILLEN master cylinder damper/brace that was made to keep the MC from "diving" when you depress the brakes.
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...NITI&model=G35 4DR
Pop your hood and have someone press the brake pedal while you are watching the MC. If you see it dive forward, you will probably benefit greatly from the brace.
I've read about people having air get in from draining it all the way and not being able to remove the air without going to the dealer, like you mentioned you have read.
Also, I don't know if you ever replaced your brake lines with SS braided, but thats a beneficial piece.
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...NITI&model=G35 4DR
Pop your hood and have someone press the brake pedal while you are watching the MC. If you see it dive forward, you will probably benefit greatly from the brace.
I've read about people having air get in from draining it all the way and not being able to remove the air without going to the dealer, like you mentioned you have read.
Also, I don't know if you ever replaced your brake lines with SS braided, but thats a beneficial piece.
I have checked for MC dive and didn't see any at all, so i don't want to buy the brace just yet.
I did read that post about replacing calipers which fixed the prob. That would be pricey because I wouldn't use used calipers..i'd go new. So i want to be sure they are the cause before doing this.
Or it could be something like these cars being difficult to bleed out completely or something along those lines?
I'm hesitant to try adding aftermarket peices just yet. My reasoning is a factory brake setup shouldn't behave like this. It's done this since 20K miles or so.
I have checked for MC dive and didn't see any at all, so i don't want to buy the brace just yet.
I did read that post about replacing calipers which fixed the prob. That would be pricey because I wouldn't use used calipers..i'd go new. So i want to be sure they are the cause before doing this.
Or it could be something like these cars being difficult to bleed out completely or something along those lines?
I have checked for MC dive and didn't see any at all, so i don't want to buy the brace just yet.
I did read that post about replacing calipers which fixed the prob. That would be pricey because I wouldn't use used calipers..i'd go new. So i want to be sure they are the cause before doing this.
Or it could be something like these cars being difficult to bleed out completely or something along those lines?

Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,818
Likes: 468
From: Taxachusetts
Yes. I am on my 2nd set of OEM rotors/pads up front.
The problem existed before the change though...and before I started bleeding the brakes.
I'd say the issue develiped around 25-30K miles or somewhere close to there, I changed the front pads and rotors around 40K because of wear, noticed no changes at all. I've bled the brakes a few times..no change at all.
Def keep us updated as it seems this is a common issue. I'm sure more guys would love to correct this
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,818
Likes: 468
From: Taxachusetts
I am going to find out the answer by the end of the month (i am changing everything)....BTW i am not getting the weak first pump anymore, i believe that the pads i just installed needed to settle in. ....so far with my troubleshooting i am leaning towards the caliper/pad/rotor combo being the problem .....because the 20 dollar pads from autozone (temporarily installed because waiting on other parts) helped the me stop better on the first pump and there was not a great difference between 1 pump to the 2nd pump now, before i used to have the dead 1-1.5 pedal play, but there was a slight difference with the double pump.....have you changed the pads/rotors?
So did you ever find the cause? Got used to the feel, but kinda want to get to the root of the issue and correct it. I hate the soft pedal because my other cars have firmer more sensitive pedals and I always almost put my face in the windshield when I drive them.
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