Alignment problem

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Old 07-02-2010, 01:22 PM
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Alignment problem

Had my guys install my Eibach Sportline kit, with Ichiba control arms front + rear. Problem is that on my coupe the front is still 2 degrees negative camber. Anyone else encounter this problem of not being able to get back to factory spec?

Just don't want to chew through tires...please help.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:29 PM
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camber wouldn't be so so bad if your toe alignment is precisely at 0. That's what eats up tires more. I know there's a slight toe-in required for the factory specs, but i'm sure you can make a special request to get it right at 0, ...afterall, those factory specs were intended for factory height and suspension, and not your lowered suspension.

Oh and if I'm not mistaken, SPC is probably the only one that has more adjustment for camber until the shim kit is required.
 

Last edited by Deezflip; 07-02-2010 at 01:38 PM.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:38 PM
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Thank you.
 
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Old 07-02-2010, 02:34 PM
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i thought toe and camber work together kind of like a see saw. if you increase the toe it will add more negative camber and vice versa. You can't have perfect toe without the negative camber that comes with it.
 
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Deezflip
there's a slight toe-in required for the factory specs, but ... get it right at 0
Zero static front toe would be bad for wear. On RWD cars the front wheels will move towards toe out as speed increases. The 350Z has the same front toe settings as the G35 Coupe and here is what service bulletin NTB04-043a (you can get these from nissanhelp.com) has to say:

"It is absolutely critical that the TOE is properly set on the 350Z.
Total Toe-in
Minimum 0 mm ( 0 in. ) [ 0º ]
Nominal 1 mm ( 0.04 in. ) [ 0.1º ]
Maximum (preferred setting*) 2 mm (0.08 in.) [ 0.2º ]
* The preferred setting is 2 mm (0.08 in.) [ 0.2º ] with no "variation" (zero [0] plus or minus)."

Article from Whiteline including an explanation of how front toe increases with speed: http://www.whiteline.com.au/vehicle_alignment.php
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 12:53 AM
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Same issue

Just got the ichiba front and rear camber kit, and the fronts do not get me back either. My was at 1.8 Left front, and 2.2 right front. Now after the ichiba install: 1.7 left, 2.1 right. Only got a tenth out of the arms, just an *** crack different than the OEM arms. Thinking of going with the SPC V2 for the front, but will they bring me back to specs??
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 12:55 AM
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Spc or spl

Sorry about that.. I'm not sure whether to go with SPC or SPL, kinda leaning towards SPL hoping that it will bring me back to specs. Thanks
 
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Old 07-07-2010, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by brandon1978
On RWD cars the front wheels will move towards toe out as speed increases.
hmm, I had no clue...good stuff to know there.
 
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Old 01-06-2011, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by inda626
Just got the ichiba front and rear camber kit, and the fronts do not get me back either. My was at 1.8 Left front, and 2.2 right front. Now after the ichiba install: 1.7 left, 2.1 right. Only got a tenth out of the arms, just an *** crack different than the OEM arms. Thinking of going with the SPC V2 for the front, but will they bring me back to specs??
Get the SPC shim kit. It adds +2º then you can use your Ichiba arms to get back to stock.
 
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Old 01-11-2011, 12:29 AM
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i have the spl ones they dont have that much + camber i am still too far in but it does have the toe adjusters and if you turn out both evenly it will add camber making it enough
 
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