great info Silver Tiburon.

for those guys who have elongated the toe bolt area, what rear camber are you running at? around -1 to -1.5 degrees?

i haven't elongated the toe bolt area yet with the SPC rear kit and i think the best that i can reach is about -3 degrees........

thanks.

 

Sweet write up

 

Great write up. Getting my spc front and rear delivered today. Hoping to install it this weekend.

 

I got my SPC arms today but they are different sizes? I got 1 of a member from my350z and another from an import retailer. Both boxes are part# 72050 but 1 of the arm is about .3" shorter than the other when fully closed? Did I get shipped the wrong arm? I know there's a different part # for cars with RAS...wonder if 1 of my arms is for that?

 

Does anyone think I can get away with not enlonging my toe bolt holes?

 

If you don't elongate the the holes with spc toe bolts you will not get full adjustment. Might as well get the stock bolts

 

I slick don't want to hack up my sub frame. I'm installing g35 tein s techs.

 

I never elongated mine and I have perfect 0 toe with -3.5 camber to fit the wheels under
I could set it to 0 camber but the wheels would rub, it worked fine for me with no drilling

 

Nice write up. and ya 0 camber also rubs for me also

 

Thanks for the write up ! just got a camber kit this weekend

 

For the record I didnt have to hack my subframe with g35 s techs out rear.

 

The reason you are elongating the toe bolt hole in the first place is to give yourself extra room for adjustment. The fact that you didn't have to cut the hole only means that your suspension isn't low enough to need the extra adjustment elongating the toe bolt hole would provide.

Now, as long as you never lower your car to the point that you need more adjustment than the stock toe bolt will provide, then you will be fine. And since that's how things worked out in your case, you should have just saved yourself the time and hassle and left the stock toe bolt in place.

Where you will have problems is if/when you decided to drop the car lower, and actually need the extra toe adjustment that the SPC bolts provide. In that case, you wont be able to zero out your toe, and will have to elongate the holes. If you installed the SPC toe bolt in the stock hole, you are just asking for trouble. That bolt is steel, and the subframe is aluminum. You turn the SPC bolt too far in the factory sized hole, and you could completely destroy the subframe.

Just to be clear for others reading this, you do not have to cut the subframe in some cases when you aren't lowering the car very much. But if that's the case, why are you installing an aftermarket kit anyways? Stick with the OEM stuff and take the extra camber you get since you are running -3.5 degrees anyways . Unless you're driving a damn race car everyday, most people install a kit to buy fewer tires, not more. Besides, if you are installing an aftermarket kit, why why wouldn't you take the extra 20 min to do it anyways since you are already under the car with the Arm off? It's not rocket science, and once it's done you don't ever have to worry about running out of adjustment. Not to mention, there's no method except for guess and check to see if you will need the extra adjustment or not. So how screwed are you after you don't cut the hole out, take it to get aligned and the tech says your angles are way off and you are out of adjustment? Unless you have a alignment rack in your garage, taking that chance is just dumb to me. Not to mention, if the tech turns that SPC bolt you put in the stock hole 360 degrees (which he will), he just destroyed your subframe. At that point, good luck ever getting the alignment straight again.

Please don't think I'm being a dick, because I'm not saying what you did is completely wrong. At the end of the day, it's your car, and you are free to do half of the install if you wish. I just want it to be crystal clear to others reading this DIY that what you are suggesting is a bad idea in my opinion, and could lead to multiple issues down the road.

 

What do you do if these inner cam bolts are spinning? One is spinning, therefore I can't get out the camber arm. Help. The bolt in red. It is spinning. No way to get behind it at all.

 

U sure ur sway bolts r spinning? Sway gotta be dropped. Might end up getting a dremel and cutting a split in the screw and using a screw driver and open end wrench.

 

Yes I'm 100 percent sure its spinning. Would that screw driver tactic really work?