hey everyone!

I am just about to install my BC coilovers on my 2003 G coupe today. i just have a few questions.

i was looking at the diy on here, and noticed that it was for a sedan. i attempted to do the coils last week, but got fed up trying to get the front disassembled and out of the car. do i need to unbolt the A arm? because this seemed to be the only option that i hadn't done yet for the front. it didn't say to do it in the sedan write up.

how long can i wait till i get an alignment? im going to be busy for a week or so. do i need to let the coils settle? i have rear camber arms, not inatalled. should i install them today, or get the person doing the alignment to install them? if i do install them, should i fiddle with them on the driveway? or will i make the car undrivable?

how do i set the rear, i have been reading on here using the SEARCH option, but am still a tad bit confused.

am i able to set the coils to a stockish height? or will they lower the car no matter what? (GFs visitor parkade makes me scrape at stock height if i go straight, but not at a mega angle).

i have stock wheels for now, but plan to change them in the near future (to 19" WORK SP1`s). will i need an alignment again after i buy aftermarket wheels, even if i lower it again just a little.

where should the dampening be set? there is no real dial, its more of a clicker, so i could set it all the way one way and however many clicks from that would be my setting.. im trying to retain a stock ride quality.

sorry about the hella long post!

 

1) Unbolt the sway bar from the LCA it will make the job a lot easier.
2) I wouldnt drive too long, but a few hundred miles is fine.
3) I would install the rear camber arm the day before you get your alignment, your toe and camber will be out of spec. Are you replacing the toe bolt too?
4) Set-up the rear? What aspect of setting it up?
5) I am not 100% on this, but in my experience my car was about 1" lower than stock at the highest adjustment.
6) If you do lower it more it will change your toe and camber settings. If you have a firestone in your area you can always get a lifetime alignment. I have one and ive used it a few times because I have been making changes to my set-up since the first alignment. If you do things in stages (suspension, then lower it later on more, then add camber components, then change the ride height again with wheel change, then change from oe- true coilover set-up) etc) <- which I did. The $140 has more than paid for itself to know that your alignment is where you want it. Oh add a camber adjustment to the list because I decided that -3 degree was more than I wanted to run.
7) I would start with the dampening in the middle, then after an alignment and a little driving make some adjustments to stiffer or softer.

 

i did unbolt the sway bar, but the suspension still wouldnt come out. Even when my friend pushed the hub down for me.

what exactly will happen if i drive it. will the tires wear fast? will it drive funny?

all i have is the meagan racing camber arms for the rear. i dont know what toe is

set up for the rear. apparently you have to twist the actual strut to lower and rais the suspension. and some ppl have an issue with the spring being loose when the car is jacked up.

in regards to the dampening, the rear adjustment **** is not accessible. if i went to adjust it after an alignment, i would have to remove the shock. will this mess up the alignment?

im in Alberta, so no firestone here lol

 

It's been years since I've installed mine but if I remember correctly. i came to a point where I wished I had a spring compressor since it was a pretty tight spot to pull the fronts out.

If i'm not mistaken, I think I jacked up both sides to get more play from the suspension. careful when you're erking and jerking not to yank your car off the stands or something.

 

When I did mine I removed two of the 3 top nut and left the 3rd loose. Then unbolted the bolt that goes through the lower control arm (bottom of the strut), unbolted the brake lines then the sway bar endlink. At that point my suspension practically fell out.

If your alignment out out it will cause premature tire wear, but for a short period of time you will be ok.

Toe:
http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html


In OE form the rear shock and spring are seperate. Are yours? Or are they all one unit (true coilover). If it's true set-up then yes you can loosen the collar and twist the shock body to raise/lower the rear. If it's OE set-up then you will need to adjust the perch then the shock lenght to match the amount you lowered the car.

 

on my coilovers, the shock and spring are separate. im still not following. there is a collar on the shock, then where the spring sits there is also a spindle with two collars

 

I had to cut my last post short, but ill try to explain a little better.
Height adjustment is determined by adjusting the collars on the spring. You thread them up to lower the car, and down to raise the car. The shock should be threaded as well. Set the height of the car with the spring/perch, then adjust the lenght of the shock body by threading it up or down. The reason for the shock adjustment is so you are (ideally) staying within the operational range of the shock.
If the shock is adjusted to full lenght and you lower the car, the shock will bottom out.
Spring/threaded perch = height adustment
Shock adjustment = optimal performance
I hope thats what you're looking for and that helps