Brake Shutter is Back
Brake Shudder is Back
Hey guys,
So at 32k when I got the car new OEM pads where installed. Fast Foward to 45kish I started to get Brake Shutter. So I resurfaced the rotors and lightly sanded the pads.
It was great but now at 63k I am getting the shutter again, getting on the brakes lightly at high way speeds to slow for an exit I am getting some bad vibration.
And it got progressively worse in the past few days.
No I dont do hard stops, I haven't done any 1/4 mile runs. I try to be careful with puddles when its raining so that the cold water does not splash on the hot rotors. I just dont understand how every 15k miles I get this to happen?
Most likely my front rotors are too thin to resurface and need to be replaced along with pads, but I do not want to buy new rotors for this problem to happen again in 15k miles.
Has anyone else dealt with this before?
So at 32k when I got the car new OEM pads where installed. Fast Foward to 45kish I started to get Brake Shutter. So I resurfaced the rotors and lightly sanded the pads.
It was great but now at 63k I am getting the shutter again, getting on the brakes lightly at high way speeds to slow for an exit I am getting some bad vibration.
And it got progressively worse in the past few days.
No I dont do hard stops, I haven't done any 1/4 mile runs. I try to be careful with puddles when its raining so that the cold water does not splash on the hot rotors. I just dont understand how every 15k miles I get this to happen?
Most likely my front rotors are too thin to resurface and need to be replaced along with pads, but I do not want to buy new rotors for this problem to happen again in 15k miles.
Has anyone else dealt with this before?
Last edited by thescreensavers; Sep 24, 2011 at 05:29 PM.
I've had this problem on EVERY car I have ever driven. I got away with 20k on my altima before I got pulsation on new rotors. It was a record 
.
I can only recommend to get new rotors if you rotors are too thin. For 05-07 Gs, the min service thickness is 26mm on front rotors. New rotors should be around 28mm.
I purchased my first set of slotted rotors (DBA if you must know) and installed them last week. I've heard they can alleviate pulsation by keeping the pad cooler.
The pulsation you feel is from the pad unevenly depositing on the rotor in most cases. I've had made a stop from 80 to zero before and a few days later got some more shimmy before. You're best defense is to not force the pad on a stationary rotor after hard stops from high speed. I use the parking brake quite frequently on interstate off ramps, but I've only employed this technique recently.
Make sure your brake hardware that interfaces with the pad to the torque member has the little tang into the pad to help lift it off the rotor. Many times people neglect to put them back because they are difficult to assemble. It can add to free brake drag and rasie the rotor temp.
The best defense in pulsation is a high thermal capacity rotor, IE a BBK. I bought DBA rotors and they weight more than stock rotors (which had never been turned). They add rotational mass but if I can get longer service w/o pulsation I will gladly make that trade-off in performance.
.I can only recommend to get new rotors if you rotors are too thin. For 05-07 Gs, the min service thickness is 26mm on front rotors. New rotors should be around 28mm.
I purchased my first set of slotted rotors (DBA if you must know) and installed them last week. I've heard they can alleviate pulsation by keeping the pad cooler.
The pulsation you feel is from the pad unevenly depositing on the rotor in most cases. I've had made a stop from 80 to zero before and a few days later got some more shimmy before. You're best defense is to not force the pad on a stationary rotor after hard stops from high speed. I use the parking brake quite frequently on interstate off ramps, but I've only employed this technique recently.
Make sure your brake hardware that interfaces with the pad to the torque member has the little tang into the pad to help lift it off the rotor. Many times people neglect to put them back because they are difficult to assemble. It can add to free brake drag and rasie the rotor temp.
The best defense in pulsation is a high thermal capacity rotor, IE a BBK. I bought DBA rotors and they weight more than stock rotors (which had never been turned). They add rotational mass but if I can get longer service w/o pulsation I will gladly make that trade-off in performance.
^ Hi thanks for your reply
It most likely is pad material being deposited on my rotor, the exit to get to my house is on an incline and slowing down from the highway then holding the brake is whats probably one of the main causes.
I found out that I can use garnet paper(NOT NORMAL SAND PAPER) to sand the rotor, and people seem to have success with it. Since its cheap I will give it a try next weekend.
It most likely is pad material being deposited on my rotor, the exit to get to my house is on an incline and slowing down from the highway then holding the brake is whats probably one of the main causes.
I found out that I can use garnet paper(NOT NORMAL SAND PAPER) to sand the rotor, and people seem to have success with it. Since its cheap I will give it a try next weekend.
Last edited by thescreensavers; Sep 25, 2011 at 02:38 PM.
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