On my 06 6mt sedan, lowering one inch and installing Motordyne sways caused the stock endlinks to make popping sounds. I think the sound was caused by the endlinks binding. Besides the stock endlinks being weak, there is also no way to adjust the preload on them when you lower the car.

 

I'm only running a rear bar (Cobb, on lowest setting) and I have Z/coupe springs, 06+ 350Z shocks, and slightly staggered (20mm) summer rated rubber on my 18s. Swaybars are great, but keep in mind the single greatest handling mod is tires. Period. If you're running all season rubber and swaybars, chances are the car will probably have lower limits because the bars can induce more sliding. Secondly, the tighter you make the bars, the more independant suspension control you loose. Running the bars tight can make the car rock back and forth on bumpy or rutted surfaces. It can also induce an almost live-axle like rear end step out on a midcorner bump. With the my rear bar on the lowest setting (70% stiffer than stock), it is far easier to induce mid-corner power oversteer. The car feels more stable in sweeping turns and on initial turn-in, but you need to have the tires to back up the reduce roll. Having some body roll isn't a bad thing.

The reason I went with the rear bar only is because I felt the roll of the car in the front wasn't excessive for auto-x with the mods I had already done. Plus, adding more stiffness to the front end would only make the car understeer worse under slow speed, tight turns. For those that don't know, adding more stiffness to the front suspension increases understeer. Same goes for excessively staggered rims. Too much stagger in the back creates understeer.

If you plan on keeping the suspension stock, do swaybars. If you plan on adding rims and lowering the car, wheels and tires first. Then springs/shocks. Then swaybars. When you're already lowered and on shorter profile tires, you've taken a bit of roll out already. The difference in ulimate handling numbers won't be nearly as dramatic, however the old butt dyno will lie to you.

 

Yeah I figured pretty much lol and yeah they're really cheap, but it'd be a pain to keep buying new ones and switching them out. I'd get some new endlinks, but i'm not working right now so a bit short on cash .

I doubt that mine will snap on the settings that I have them on, but if they do then I'll just have to buy some decent aftermarket ones.