what should the rear camber be ? I told him I wanted the wheels standing more upright and they are so I wonder if the camber is wrong pulling the toe in more than it shold be ???

 

Did you follow this guide for SPC

http://www.batit.com/forumpics/spctoeboltinstall.pdf

http://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-s...-protocav.html

Here is spec sheet and my alignment

 

yeah I elongated all 4 holes to the inside using the batit instructions. Pretty simple really.

I guess I should go back and complain to the owenr of the shop. It was late they were about to close and he kept saying it's all within the green except the toe. The car pulls a little to the right now also. Weird thing is though that I got under the car and saw it for myself he had the toe bolts maxed out to toe it out and the toe was still in. I wonder now if it has too much positive camber since I asked him to make the rear tires straight up and down (Zero camber) all wheels now look close to straight up and down.

I want my car aligned for max tire life for daily driviing since I dont drive hard. I don't really understand all those numbers above so what should I be telling them ?

thanks guys

 

We need to see your alignment numbers when you get a chance.

If I'm reading what other people have posted correctly, your rear camber arms need to be adjusted because they are the reason your toe is not correct. By adjusting the arms, they can make it so the toe comes back into spec.

 

Exactly....you will need to run negative camber to bring toe back in spec. You can be near the end of the spec for camber like -1.3 and have toe back in spec. If you ask for like -.5 camber or less than toe might be too far out of spec to bring it in with toe bolts. First you set camber and then you adjust toe but if you have too much positive camber then you will not be able to dial in toe properly. Toe will eat up your tires EXTREMELY quick versus camber. I would sacrifice camber to bring toe back in spec even if that meas your car has a slight stance to it. With camber wear you can swap sides on asymmetrical tires and extend life but toe wear is NO BEUNO.

 

Ok that's what I guessed / hoped was happening. So what's the most positive camber I can run with out causing major wear to the insides of the tires ? -1.3 ? is that negative camber seems that would make my toe even worse going outward at the top of the wheel / tire.

I had new tires put on immediately after the alignment beasue I had some belts coming through. I'll have to take the car back to them tomorrow am.

 

Negative camber... (example -1.3) causes inside tire wear. You would be going inward with the top of the tire. However, at lower numbers, the wear isn't as bad and regular rotations can extend your tire life. If you have to go negative to get toe in spec, do it. And make sure the other side's numbers match as close as possible.

 

so is -1.3 the max negative camber I should be running ?

 

ok so I got them to re do the alignment

LF..............RF
camber .06 / camber -0.52
caster 8.48 / caster 8.01
toe .08 / toe .06
total toe .13

LR.............RR
camber .61 / camber -.37
toe .28 / toe .33
total toe .61

the car very lightly pulls to the right.

I already had it out with the tech that re did my alignment this morning. He said my alignment was now off prior to redoing it because I had got new tires between but I plan to take it back again becasue it pulls realy lightly to the right.

any guess as to why it's pulling to the right now ?

 

Camber in the rear is a full degree off from side to side.

Rear toe still seems high. Maybe you should play with the camber arms yourself until your toe bolts aren't maxed out and then try again for an alignment.

Try and get them to match sides for alignment numbers. That could cause your pulling.

 

seriously this is freaking ridiculous

I wish they would just let me rent the damn alignment machine so I could do it myself.

Guess I'll have to pay another $100 and try another shop for a better alignment.

 

so I have checked around a few local shops about getting my alignment done elsewhere and I'm now being told my car is too low and becasue of the front bumper design the alignment machines wont work on my car becasue the lasers can't cross to each other in the front.

two different types of alignment machines one expert shop on suspension with the flashing laser lights type alignment machine. They say I'll have to get a dealer alignment with the cameras on it for more adjustability for my car. One shop had the same machine as the shop that "did my alignment" already which is off and says he wouldn't use that type of alignment machine on my car and said the other place shoudn't have either.

My car is lowered on H&R springs (a tad lower because it's an X) and I have the Nismo aero body kit but seriously am I just getting jerked around or what ?

 

Doesn't sound unreasonable.