'04 G35X rear brake question/help...I'm a newbie

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Old 06-12-2012, 06:38 PM
sparklecitycarz's Avatar
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'04 G35X rear brake question/help...I'm a newbie

Fairly new G35X owner. Bought a used 2004 G35X with about 109k on it. Drove like a champ until two days ago and noticed a grinding/scraping noise coming from driver side rear. Also grinding when braking so I assumed needed new pads. Upon inspection of all rotors, all were fine except driver side rear. So, go to AutoZone and got new rear pads, and rotor. Attempted to change rotor but couldn't get the damn caliper screws off so just ended up using a wire brush to smooth out the rotor as best I could and changing the brake pads. Tried to remove the bottom screw on the caliper and it was stripped but managed to get the top screw removed and taken out so the caliper/piston could be removed from the rotor and I could get the pads out. I noticed that the wear on the inside pad was really bad, the pad almost completely gone while the outside pad seemed to actually still have a little substance left. The rear passenger pads were worn, but definitely more equally. Anyways, since I had to drive the thing after failing to remove the rotor, I just put the rear set of pads on and went on my way. The scraping/grinding noise that was the result of the worn pad/rotor was gone, so I figured I had remedied the problem. Now however when I drive it it feels like the car is sluggish, like the parking brake is engaged. It doesn't pull to the right or left really and there is no smoking or brake smell. It was not this sluggish prior to the pad change.

My questions are these to try to be a little more clear in my ramblings:

1) Is this normal after putting on pads until they become more broken in to have this sluggish feeling?

2) If it is not, which I am of the opinion it isn't, is it likely that the caliper is bad due to the uneven wear of the pads on the left rear driver side? I did notice when I removed the caliper from the rotor (bottom pin still in) and depressed the piston that there was a worn spot on the rubber between the piston and the piston housing. Is there any surefire way to tell if a caliper piston is bad or not?

3) If it isn't the caliper, is it possible that one of the guide pins is sticking instead and perhaps just need to be lubed?

4) Is it possible the ebrake has someone become engaged due to changing the rear brake pads?

From browsing the forum I have come to realize that there seems to be notoriety with these cars and their brakes so if anyone has encountered this problem or might be able to help I would greatly appreciate it. I am trying to avoid the dealership at all costs so I won't get gouged.

Thanks,

C

2004 G35X
 
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Old 06-12-2012, 10:29 PM
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I forgot to mention that the passenger side rear brakes were worn about equally, and there were no stripped sliding pins. On the driver side rear, the bottom caliper sliding pin is stripped. I managed to loosen it, but I couldn't get it completely out so I left it in for the pad install. I was able to tighten it back but perhaps not as well as necessary due to stripping. I was also unable to really clean it good because I couldn't get it out. Perhaps this slider pin is the reason the caliper on that side of the car is acting up and I just need to replace it as opposed to getting an entirely new caliper?
 
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:02 PM
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Brakes

An update:

Took car to a tire and brake place and they put on new front pads as replaced my rotor for me for a really good price. They also greased the slider pins for me on all 4 wheels. The only problem is that I feel a noticeable drag in the car now that was apparent after the initial rear brake pad change. I also noticed a little burned brake smell upon returning home from the shop but I equate this to having new pads all around. There was no noticeable smell from the new rotor on the rear driver side.

Again, I notice a distinct sluggishness to the car that was not there before I changed the rear brake pads and it is still there. It is almost as if the car has the emergency brake on? Is there a fuse or a way to disengage the e brake to make sure that it somehow didn't become engaged during the brake pad changing? The only issues that I think are still apparent is the stripped lower caliper slider pin on the rear driver side and a possible damaged rubber boot between the piston cylinder and the cylinder housing in the caliper itself on that side.

If anyone else has had issues with this or experienced a noticeable dragging in their car after doing brake work let me know if you have any ideas. I don't think I am just imagining things or perhaps this is just normal until the pads become more broken in.
 
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