I honestly had the same problem.

What I did which was a bit tedious. I just lowered the lower control arm from the ball joint and the whole thing just comes down. Depending on your ride height (Im pretty low). I just maxed the entire camber arm to its maximum positive and it got me back in spec all around.

Another method that could be used is loosen that A arm ball joint nut and the whole suspension should fall right down. Adjust and reinstall.

The whole process is tedious.

Reason for why its like that now compared to your springs is bc you are shortening the shock body for height. While when you were using springs you were probably still on the original shocks which was longer.

And yes I also get a loud clunk when I go over bumps every here and there bc of the A arm hitting the fender wells. I believe SPC made revised arms which eliminate this.

 

do what you said. make a special tool if you need to. offset wrench maybe?? call a snap on guy or something ask em if they have anything that could work.

 

FInally someone that understands!! Thanks for the help guys...didn't think it would be this difficult. And still surprised it's the first time I've heard of this issue since all camber arms are the same way. This means everyone's camber is probably not equal on each side.

 

Ive always wondered about this myself. Has anybody sat and watched their alignment get done?

 

Front camber arms are almost pointless when you are lowered more than 2"

 

FYI, whenever you jack up the car to adjust the camber arms, you'll need to drive it around for awhile to get the suspension to settle again....this means driving around with the toe alignment all out of wack, which also means it's pointless to get a toe alignment right after the camber adjustment since it'll change and shift once the suspension settles,

not unless you feel like paying for mutiple alignments within a couple of weeks.

 

From what I know, it shouldnt take weeks or days for a suspension to settle.

If you adjust the camber on the spc arms (depending on your drop) all you have to do is make sure its equal on both sides and locked them up. Take it to an alignment shop and tell them to just adjust accordingly. Honestly Ive done this a lot and went through so many suspension modification that I been to the alignment place numerous times and it always goes well.

Also Firestone offers lifetime alignment which is a big ups

 

Also here is the answer to your preload question. I have BC coils as well and I love them.


Were you trying to get more positive or negative with the A-arms? because with that amount of drop, maxing them out to positive with the shims will prob get you close to stock specs.

 

Not sure I understand what you're saying here. Are you trying to get more negative camber or more positive camber?

 

I guess it can be just a coincidence but when i jack up my car just to change my oil, i notice that it's not as low as it should be until after a couple of days of driving it...who knows.

 

Cool, I adjusted the preload correctly...although I used more like 8+mm preload.

I am using the hub shims, so I think I will take your advice and pull it out all the way and leave it like that. At least I will know that it should be close to equal on each side.

Do you also think I should max out the caster to the -1.50* position (as shown in the instructions)? Right now I have it in the -1.25* position because I was not sure what the alignment guy used with my other springs.

 

I would like the camber to be close to stock numbers and the same numbers on each side. I think stock is -.5* to -1.0*, but I was thinking -1.0* to -1.5* would be okay.

What I'm saying is that it's almost impossible to get the exact numbers on each side (everything else being equal) because you cannot adjust camber without taking off the wheel and dismantling the suspension. Impossible, well maybe not, but it could take 2 hours to do. So it's pointless to even have adjustable camber arms when you can't use their adjustability. I guess even if it's not equal on each side you can get them closer to stock numbers, better than the static -2.5* the stock A-arms give.

 

I will be buying Firestone's lifetime alignment!!!!!!!!

 

^Do it! I finally found a brake check relatively close to me and they said they would charge around 140 bucks for the first alignment and 3 bucks for each time after that since they offer a lifetime warranty or whatever.

I also asked if they were able to adjust to a non-oem spec camber/toe/caster and they said they would but that it would void the warranty and they wouldn't be responsible for the possible tire wear (obviously) So ask around to see if they only align to factory spec or if they do custom setup. Chances are they will be fine with it but I have heard of some shops declining that request

 

From looking at your suspension set up and seeing that you are unable to adjust the arms like me. I suggest just maxing the arms out to get the closes number to stock. Even still I think you will be on the verge to coming close or even getting it in spec.

Maxing them out should make everything even. Thats if you lowered the car the same amount on both sides.

Check this vid out at 2:00mins

I suggest just setting that offset/caster to the point where you get the most POSITIVE camber. Thats what I did in order to get it my alignment to -1.0 to -1.5.