Im lowered(not slammed) on coilovers and had -4 deg of camber on the rear wheels. I installed new SPC rear camber kit today, went and got an alignment, and the guy got it to -2.4 degrees of neg camber, but said if he went any more( I wanted -1) that it would adversely affect my toe, and said that he could correct the camber better if I had a way to adjust the toe on the rears.

So it seems I need to get a toe kit or something? The SPC rear camber kit came with a weird looking toe bolt thing but I don't know if that's what I need to correct this. I track my car and up fronts are perfect at -2.5 and I want the rears to be at -1 and I guess I need help with the rears on what to buy/do. thanks

 

Install toe bolt. /thread

 

Is that really enough? So I install this one bolt and it allows the alignment person to adjust my toe? Can you elaborate more?

 

The alignment guy definitely doesn't know what the hell he's doing, they have to adjust the camber all the way in and then move the toe to spec while slowly adding camber to see where your toe bolt maxes out..the spc toe bolts require you to elongate the toe area giving you 2 more degrees of adjustment in the toe area

 

Well put JaE35...

 

I read up on how to install the SPC toe bolt and all and it doesnt seem hard at all, but how is elongating that hoel and installing the new bolt supposed to adjust the toe at will?

 

Installing the toe bolts is easy, elongating the hole so you have a little more adjustment is best done using a impact gun/grinder....Gary

 

You can also use a Dremel with a carbide bit (I think that's the one) to cut it. It helps if you have the flexible attachment to get in there.

If you've still got toe problems afterwards you can look into the SPL options (they've got a spring bucket with extra toe if you've got OEM style rear and a straight toe bar to replace the bucket if you've got a true type).

But first step would be bring it to a different alignment shop after the toe bolts and see if someone better has better results.

 

If you've got OEM style rear https://www.splparts.com/chassis-V35.html#SPLRMLZ33

If you've got true type rear https://www.splparts.com/chassis-V35.html#SPLRTAZ33

 

Just do the toe bolt install. Elongate the holes and that will solve your problem.

 

I understand the method on how to do it, but I don't understand WHY or how elongating the hole helps toe. I hear everyone saying just do it, but honestly we've all had experiences with ppl on forums who have no idea what they're talking about, and while I feel like there are a lot of smart ppl here, without hearing an actual reason as to how and why this helps than Im not simply going to do it because a random person I never met told me to. lol I am not trying to be mean or malicious or anything, I genuinly need help with this and want to learn about it, but I just want a simple explanation is all before I do something to my car and it worries me that no one seems to be able to provide this info.....

 

Here is my 2 cents. Take or leave it. Plain and simple.

The reason why elongating the holes help is because it allows for more degree of adjustment. Its just that simple.

While adding in those camber arms and finely adjusting them to get less camber, you have to compensate for that with the toe. The factory toe doesnt have enough adjustment to compensate for the amount of camber you'll be taking away so therefore you need to elongate the holes to add in more adjustment. Its kind of like a give take situation. Get more positive camber requires pulling in the wheel, but while pulling in the wheel you have to get more toe so the wheel can go straight.

Please refer to this video and watch at 5:17 pay attention and see how the wheel moves back and forth. Watch the entire thing if you dont understand what is going on.

 

If they can position the toe better in the bigger hole it allows for more adjustment easiest way to think about it is the wider the hole, easier it is to find a happy medium for toe to get to 0.

 

As you adjust the bolt, it rotates the eccentric piece that is keyed to the bolt. The new eccentric pieces have the bolts more off center, allowing for more adjustment. Since you are moving the bolts more off center, you need to elongate the holes to allow the bolts to move further in and out (thats how it adds the extra adjustment).

 

Thanks, I understand a bit now and am going to get it done hopefully next week. Thanks a lot to everyone.