i cannot locate where the rear pass. side strut mount is, i need to tighten that bolt on the coil..but cannot access it. i tried removing the trunk liner.. no help.. and back seat the part where the door would be (its a coupe) but still couldnt get access to it...

keep getting a "clunk" noise over bumps and its driving me crazy!

 

What? The top bolts where the strut mounts? Those are tightened via the wheel well, those bolts are welded into the body and not reachable unless you cut down from above.

 

so this is only located in the front?


the two bolts are the only way of tightening it in the rear ? (inside wheel well)

 

^^^ iirc G/Z are not camber plate compatible. Also check your coilover lock rings. Make sure those are tighten. Top 2 rear strut mounts inside the wheel well are tight.

 

i had couple vendors tell me that clunking noise on BC coils is quite common, its a design flaw.

 

Well for one our cars don't have those even up front, just 3?4? places to bolt the strut to the car.

But yes, those two bolts are the only way to tighten the rear strut to the upper portion of the car. Also check your lower mount, I've heard of extra space in that region causing clunking requiring bushings to get it to stop.

 

OP Make sure the top large bolt is tight. I had the clunking problem on my Megan's.

Tightened bolt problem solved.

 

this is my problem, i cant find where it is how do i get access to it? where in the car is it located (rear)

 

My problem was the top bolt on the top of the coilover. Its the large bolt below the dampening **** in the pic above. (if that makes sense)

 

yeah i know – i know under the hood the two strut towers are right about the wheel wells..but in the rear.. i can't find where they are to access it... if you know what i mean?

 

My problem was not the bolts holding the coilover to the body of the car. It was the bolt on the actual coilover on top of the strut. (we may have different issues) see disclaimer below.. Good luck


NOTE: Remember to torque the top 17mm nut at the top of all McPherson struts to 40-60ft/lbs with properly calibrated torque wrench. Improper torque specification can cause the assembly to come loose and cause symptomatic clunking noise, or may damage the threads on the shock shaft when overtorqued. When tightening the 12mm top nuts included with the coil-overs, torque them only to 24-34ft/lbs. With a 14mm nut, torque it to 33-42ft/lbs. The "crash bolts/eccentric bolts" holding the lower steel bracket onto the knuckle also needs specific torque specs, often upwards of 60-80ft/lbs. You will need to follow the OEM torque specifications for these bolts. Your local dealership should have these torque specifications for your particular vehicle. Torque specifications for these bolts are critical to the safe operation of your coil-overs on you vehicle. We recommend you double check these torque specs with the vehicle manufacturer. Please replace the bolts with brand new OEM hardware once torqued down to specification. Due to the nature of these bolts and the excessive loads it experiences, these bolts will stretch after repeated use, rendering the possibility of hardware failure. These are one-time-use only bolts. Failure to do so will void certain warranty applicability.

 

I believe you will have to remove the coilover to access this bolt in the rear.

 

yeah im sure it varies person to person– but you tightened the 2 bolts in the inner fender wheel well and it fixed it? ill be sure to torque it to the right specs.

 

NO. I tightened the top large bolt on the top of the coilover (below dampending ****). This is NOT attached to the car in anyway. Its the large nut coming through the middle of the coilover on the top.

Like I said you may not have the same problem but this is what I experienced.

 

right right.. the only way to get to it is to take the coilover off then huh... fawwwkkk guess i got some work to do tmrw