Rear Subframe - Bushing issue

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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #16  
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SPL will definitely have some noise and harness associated with it.

The new SPLs are easier to get in (they redesigned them to have a tapered edge on both sides of the bushing, that was a huge complaint on their first batches).

If you're not going to track it very often, Whiteline will do just fine!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2013 | 10:24 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by OBsessed
Duke take a look at the DIY threads I posted. It's really not too hard, just takes a couple hours. Easier with an extra set of hands but not completely required. Buy some beer and invite some mechanically inclined alcoholic friends over.
I would like to but I don't have a place to do it or very many tools. Of my friends, I am the mech inclined one since I put my own spacers on.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 01:11 PM
  #18  
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well , doing this project this weekend.

throwing the car up on stands tonight and hitting everything with PB blaster. gonna be replacing both the subframe and diff bushings tomorrow. wish me luck!

i intend to take pictures to post up somewhat of a DIY becuase i havent found one for Whitelines yet and there are only a few diy's anyway
 
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 01:53 PM
  #19  
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I just had ALL the bushings in the front end of my car replaced with Energy bushing from Import Parts Pro, they were really nice and half the price of white lines. Labor was $625.00 and it took the guy ALL DAY to do them, even with a lift and all shop equipment. Boy am I glad I didn't try that in my garage....

BTW, it drives better than new now!
 
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 01:59 PM
  #20  
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i already replaced the front LCA bushings with energy. wasnt too bad. i do have hte white line compression rod bushing hanging in my room (only for a week or so). i'll get that one next weekend probably
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #21  
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My DIY for these


1- Purchase set of bushings from vendor. Most likely only need differential if you see a black leak on the subframe
2- call local shop to see if they're willing to tdo the work
3- get quote from shop
4- drive car to shop
5- enjoy a day or two stress free knowing your car is in good hands
6- pick up car from shop
7- enjoy knowing your car has one more "refreshed" piece to keep it going strong

in all seriousness this was a bitch to do .

for newer cars (not rusted/stripped bolts EVERYWHERE)

for those who do want to do this...
1- get pb blaster and hit everything
2- make sure to have a deep socket stripped bolt kit (for subframe )
3- get a legit shop press for the bushings
4- the subframe diff bushing can come out using a drill/saw but it will take forever (took me a few hours under the car chipping away) but would be much easier if it was out of the car
5- definitely get a friend to help
6- be careful what you are cutting , make sure you know what everything is lol
 
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 12:20 PM
  #22  
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I took the first option.... No regrets.
 
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Old May 31, 2016 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
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Just passed 90k on my 2007 G35x and the dealer said that it was leaking blah blah. What are the potential implications for ignoring the problem? I don't mind throwing a few bucks at it, just want to make the best decision for the vehicle.

On a side note, is there a place on Long Island that would just swap the bushing? Dealer and local garage said they would only swap the whole unit and that the rust around the Control Arms was pretty bad and they might have to replace them while replacing the Rear Subframe.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 01:26 PM
  #24  
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Little late, but if you are still looking for answer here it is:

Mine has been blown since about 80,000 miles. I just passed 254,000 miles this week.

Never fixed it, never really had any problems because of it.




Originally Posted by ben_m
Just passed 90k on my 2007 G35x and the dealer said that it was leaking blah blah. What are the potential implications for ignoring the problem? I don't mind throwing a few bucks at it, just want to make the best decision for the vehicle.

On a side note, is there a place on Long Island that would just swap the bushing? Dealer and local garage said they would only swap the whole unit and that the rust around the Control Arms was pretty bad and they might have to replace them while replacing the Rear Subframe.
 
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