I know I am going to replace the shocks. I know i need to replace the bushings, but not sure of which to get or which ones I need. I will probably need ball joints too and sway bar links. Would it be better to get new control arms with the bushings and ball joints or keep the existing arms and swap out what what I need.

Any tips?

 

I just did all of this (replaced every single suspension component) about two months ago. If you have a press, just buy a white line kit, and replace the bushings where you can. For anything that has a ball joint, replace the part (upper control arms, compression rods) as those are most likely shot. I would suggest going with aftermarket parts from rockauto.com rather than OEM at that milage as OEM will get spendy. Replace your inner and outer tie rods along with your lower ball joints (eBay) while you're at it. Strut and shock mounts are a must. I replaced my springs with a set of 06 350z springs, and installed 06 350z struts and shocks. Don't forget to buy new conical shims for the upper control arms and compression rods. The shims on the lower ball joints (lower control arms) can be reusued (I.e. you can get them off). Replace your sway bar end links, and if you want to put the icing on the cake, pick up a set of hotchkis (or other) sway bars, and do everything at once. I've done all of the above except for install my new sway bars, and the ride is simply night and day amazing. There are DIYs for all of these on this site, so good luck, and enjoy!

Edit: My springs were $50 used from a user on my350z. Struts/shocks are brand new KYB.

 

You wouldnt happen to have a parts list of everything you bought would you?

 

I don't have one, but can compile the list for you. I might be able to do that tonight.

 

I need to do this my myself, my 03 has 227k and the ride is horrible.

 

Looks like I should get a whole how to together. Several people have driven my car since I did the suspension work, and I've gotten the same "wow" response from all of them. It feels like I'm driving a brand new G, only better. No squeaks or bumps or knocks, and it feels like you're riding on rails when cornering. I have 154k on my G, so this made an incredible difference in the dynamics of the car.

 

Here's everything I purchased, along with unit prices, to overhaul my suspension. I purchased the white line bushings for the lower control arm, but wish I would have just bought new aftermarket arms instead, so I've added those below. I also went with OEM compression rods, but that is not necessary at all. I'd go aftermarket if I had to do it over again. Most of this is from RockAuto.com unless otherwise noted. Let me know if you have any questions!

Tie Rod Ends
MOOG Part # EV80279 Front Inner Tie Rod X2
$19.76
MOOG Part # ES80579 Front Left Outer Tie Rod X1
$23.79
MOOG Part # ES80578 Front Right Outer Tie Rod X1
$23.79

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1033072 Front Left Inner Tie Rod (Rack and Pinnion) Bellow
$11.16
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1033071 Front Right Inner Tie Rod (Rack and Pinnion) Bellow
$11.16

Sway Bar Links
MOOG Part # K750044 Rear Left Sway Bar Link X1
$18.74
MOOG Part # K750047 Rear Right Sway Bar Link X1
$18.74
MOOG Part # K750100 Front Left Sway Bar Link X1
$21.79
MOOG Part # K750101 Front Right Sway Bar Link X1
$22.79

Control Arms
RAYBESTOS Part # 5021259 Front Left Upper Control Arm X1
$43.99
RAYBESTOS Part # 5021260 Front Right Upper Control Arm X1
$43.99
RAYBESTOS Part # 5071702 Front Left Compression Rod X1
$56.79
RAYBESTOS Part # 5071703 Front Right Compression Rod X1
$56.79
RAYBESTOS Part # 5071700 Front Left Lower Control Arm X1
$61.79
RAYBESTOS Part # 5071701 Front Right Lower Control Arm X1
$61.79

350Z Strut Bellows
MOOG Part # K90460 Front Strut Bellow w/Bumper X2
$13.56

350Z Struts
KYB Part # 341367 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Left Strut X1
$82.89
KYB Part # 341366 GR-2 / Excel-G Front Right Strut X1
$82.89

350Z Shocks
KYB Part # 344455 GR-2 / Excel-G Rear Shock X2
$35.79

Strut Mounts
KYB Part # SM5542 Front Strut Mount X2
$33.79

Shock Mounts
MOOG Part # K160011 Rear Shock Mount X2
$10.52

350Z Springs
Find a set of revised 350Z springs on the forums
https://g35driver.com/forums/steerin...d-springs.html
$50.00-$80.00

Lower Ball Joints
eBay X1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-INFINITI...23ad60&vxp=mtr)
$44.99

Ball Joint Shims
Lower Shims X2 (http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/w013...y4hH-YkCpDmZsv)
$12.59
Upper Shims X2 (http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/w013...v-r8obyjnTJasv)
$12.59

 

Wow, after all that I'm sure she drives great!
I saw you mentioned new sway bars as well,
Let's not forget the simple/easy strut tower braces.
Generally about 150-200 and quite the improvement as well.
I'm sitting at 184k atm and have already done the ball joints and control arm bushings when the went out at about 160k

Nothing else is "bad" though.
I'm sure it could use some new bushings, sway bars, and strut braces for that "new" feeling.

 

That looks like a bad *** weekend project! Did you replace the bushings with White Line?

 

I replaced the lower control arm bushings with white line, but would just buy aftermarket arms if I were to do it again. White line bushings are nice, but the price and time differential is not worth it to me.

Edit: all of this took me about 2 days after work, and one weekend to complete working alone in my garage. Some of the bolts were quite challenging, but pretty straight forward project overall. I also replaced my brake lines with stainless steel lines, and threw on some R1 Concepts slotted rotors and Akebono performance pads. It was an extreme makeover weekend for the G haha. I love how it drives now.

 

Hey Brazen,
Tons of good info there thanks. I have a few questions though. Are the ball joints necessary? Don't the control arms come complete with ball joints and bushings already? Did you just get extra ball joints because they are better than what come with the arms?? I have about 110k on my G with no suspension mods or work done ever.I have a few knocks and clunks, but nothing too terrible. I don't want to mess with pressing bushings or ball joints out and in, so I was just going to totally replace the arms and I thought they included all bushings and ball joints. Also did you replace any rear parts aside from the shocks and springs? Also is it ever necessary to replace springs? I was told that unless they're cracked they never need to be replaced, but for a part that experiences tons of mechanical movement and stress, i found that hard to believe. I've never seen a set of new NON LOWERED springs anywhere..I have enough issues with speed bumps as it is and I really am just looking to restore ride quality and get rid of the little squeaks, knocks, and clunks.
Thanks

 

The ball joints I replaced were the lower ball joints which the lower control arms connect to. You won't have to do any of that if you're just replacing the compression rods as they have ball joints already built in. To test if your lower ball joints need replaced, jack the front up, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock, and try to wiggle it on the vertical axis. If it doesn't wiggle, then you're good to go.

For the rear, I replaced the springs, shocks, and sway bar links as everything else was solid. The springs were only replaced because I upgraded to the revised Z springs to get a slight drop and tighter handling. If you're not lowering the car, you should almost never have to replace springs until 250k miles or so, if that.

Good luck!

 

Damn, thats a lot of miles.. Any major problems??

 

This post is too awesome.
I've done the LCA inner bushings with Whitelines, have ordered the lower ball joints from RockAuto and Energy Suspension boots to replace the ones that come with those, bought the Whiteline compression rod bushings and plan to buy just buy the whole arms to replace(for the new CR ball joints). Definitely in need of new shocks and struts too.

So...should I just order those new ball joint shims? I heard they're a b**** to get off.

 

I would definitely order the shims. I wasted a couple hours using a blow torch, vice grips, channel locks, pb blaster, tuning forks, etc.... And they would not budge. Save yourself the trouble, and get new ones. If you are able to get them off, they'll most likely be useless anyway due to the abuse you'll need to put them through to remove the shims.