My right rear brake looks like it is not applying fully. The rotor only has brake wear on about the middle third of the surface, and surface rust on the inner and 1/2" of the rotor surface. It almost looks like the caliper has too narrow of pads in it.

 

Rebuild the caliper (pull, press out piston, disconnect lines, leave in brake fluid overnight and then clean with steel wool). Likely it is dragging on one side from dust/grime build up. While servicing, have this rotor turned, as it is likely coned from odd application.

 

May need a new caliper

 

check the guide pins on the caliper. should slide back and forth pretty easily. if not you just need a new pin and not have to buy a new caliper.

 

What a lot of work to do to a car that "had the brakes done" at the dealership before I bought it! I'll check the pins first, if that's not it where can I buy a caliper rebuild kit?

 

Don't bother.


Buy a reman caliper on Rockauto.com for under $40 (plus core) and just swap the caliper out and bleed that brake. Local Parts stores might have them too but unsure of the cost. The rear calipers were used on a few Nissan products, so that's why costs are low (relatively speaking)


Seized rear calipers are common on these cars. Either the slide pins size, or the piston rusts out and seizes.

I've replaced both rear calipers on my car. It's just quicker

 

"Had the brakes done at the dealership?" All that means is the lowest mechanic on the line (might have been the yard boy) installed pads. Done right, who knows? It does sound like your caliper is partially frozen and needs to be replaced!
Gary

 

If brakes were done at the dealership, just take it back. They have to warranty their own work. But most likely is bad caliper.

 

Remains are a solid choice.

 

I would, except I bought the car in Kansas City and I don't have the time to drive 500 or so miles back there. Besides, if they didn't do it right the first time, why would they do it right a second time? Easier to get a caliper and pressure bleeder and fix it myself in an afternoon.

 

I just replaced one this past weekend. Less than an hour to take wheel off, swap caliper and bleed that one brake.

 

You know what's even more odd? I just went out to look at it and it's no longer stuck. Totally normal wear on the rotor. Oh well,time to save up for bigger brakes.

 

Keep a very close eye on that rotor making sure it's not bright red after driving for a while. Calipers aren't in the habit of fixing themselves!
Gary

 

I'd prob grab some caliper grease, set a day aside and relube the rear caliper slide pins and inspect.


$8 tube of grease and a couple hours is cheaper than having to replace the rear brakes when a stuck caliper causes the inside pad to chew the rotor up.

 

Just to be sure, the caliper pins are the top pair of visible bolts with what appears to be a rubber boot right? Not the lower pair that bolt the caliper to the hub assembly.