2003 g35 lower springs opinion
#1
2003 g35 lower springs opinion
I have a coupe. So Its about that time I were I'm looking to upgrade my car suspension for a more aggressive look while offer better cornering capabilities. So I narrowed it down to options. The ebach pro kit http://m.autoanything.com/suspension...LbNxoC1n_w_wcB which has a lot of good rating for a price of 245.
Then there's the tein s tech https://www.google.com/search?q=2003...B7wQgTYIpwMwCg which goes for 170.
I just want to know if there a big difference in ride quality. I would love to go with the cheaper one since I would also have to pay for installation and I'm not made up money but I'd rather not waste money going for poor quality since there such a price difference. So I need help with deciding. Anyone with a insightful option on both brands ?
Then there's the tein s tech https://www.google.com/search?q=2003...B7wQgTYIpwMwCg which goes for 170.
I just want to know if there a big difference in ride quality. I would love to go with the cheaper one since I would also have to pay for installation and I'm not made up money but I'd rather not waste money going for poor quality since there such a price difference. So I need help with deciding. Anyone with a insightful option on both brands ?
Last edited by stefelz; 10-18-2016 at 10:24 AM.
#2
Your question is hard to answer because as long as your suspension is matched and balanced (strut stiffness to spring rates), your ride will feel fine.
Tein tends to lower the spring rates from what it should be in an attempt to offer a more comfortable ride which ends up giving you a bouncier ride, while Eibachs tend to be firmer.
And to throw a wrench in your purchase decision making, Swift springs have been popular for their better quality.
IMHO, if you have a sedan, any combination of revised 350Z suspension parts (factory or aftermarket) will work great.
On my own sedan, I had 350Z Tein S Techs with Tokico D-Specs. The ride was firm but not bouncy nor bumpy. But the D-Specs were adjustable.
Tein tends to lower the spring rates from what it should be in an attempt to offer a more comfortable ride which ends up giving you a bouncier ride, while Eibachs tend to be firmer.
And to throw a wrench in your purchase decision making, Swift springs have been popular for their better quality.
IMHO, if you have a sedan, any combination of revised 350Z suspension parts (factory or aftermarket) will work great.
On my own sedan, I had 350Z Tein S Techs with Tokico D-Specs. The ride was firm but not bouncy nor bumpy. But the D-Specs were adjustable.
Last edited by dofu; 10-18-2016 at 10:27 AM.
#3
Your question is hard to answer because as long as your suspension is matched and balanced (strut stiffness to spring rates), your ride will feel fine.
Tein tends to lower the spring rates from what it should be in an attempt to offer a more comfortable ride which ends up giving you a bouncier ride, while Eibachs tend to be firmer.
And to throw a wrench in your purchase decision making, Swift springs have been popular for their better quality.
IMHO, if you have a sedan, any combination of revised 350Z suspension parts (factory or aftermarket) will work great.
On my own sedan, I had 350Z Tein S Techs with Tokico D-Specs. The ride was firm but not bouncy nor bumpy. But the D-Specs were adjustable.
Tein tends to lower the spring rates from what it should be in an attempt to offer a more comfortable ride which ends up giving you a bouncier ride, while Eibachs tend to be firmer.
And to throw a wrench in your purchase decision making, Swift springs have been popular for their better quality.
IMHO, if you have a sedan, any combination of revised 350Z suspension parts (factory or aftermarket) will work great.
On my own sedan, I had 350Z Tein S Techs with Tokico D-Specs. The ride was firm but not bouncy nor bumpy. But the D-Specs were adjustable.
#4
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Here we go again...lowering!
FYI, there is no inexpensive way to lower your coupe! Regardless of how it's lowered you will still need a Camber kit so your alignment can be set to factory specs! Many members will post you don't need the kit, that's only if you don't mind buying new tires every 10K miles or less! This is a long means of disagreement among members so you'll need to make the decision yourself. Consider the cost of quality tires. I've been running Tein 350Z H-Techs, Tokico D Spec Shocks with the SPL camber kit for a long time without having to buy tires frequently. Only issue is finding an alignment shop that has the ability/knowledge to adjust lowered suspensions! Also consider sway bars like Stillens for a better cornering ability...Gary
#5
FYI, there is no inexpensive way to lower your coupe! Regardless of how it's lowered you will still need a Camber kit so your alignment can be set to factory specs! Many members will post you don't need the kit, that's only if you don't mind buying new tires every 10K miles or less! This is a long means of disagreement among members so you'll need to make the decision yourself. Consider the cost of quality tires. I've been running Tein 350Z H-Techs, Tokico D Spec Shocks with the SPL camber kit for a long time without having to buy tires frequently. Only issue is finding an alignment shop that has the ability/knowledge to adjust lowered suspensions! Also consider sway bars like Stillens for a better cornering ability...Gary
http://m.autoanything.com/suspension...eWShoCPoTw_wcB
#7
Eibach prokit is progressive and should be close to oem spring rates and maybe firmed up a little bit when fully loaded. That means you wouldn't be over working your already worn damper. If you are looking for any kind performance upgrade, I would recommend it over the S-tech
And also like gary said, make sure you get the car aligned correctly.
If you get the eibach prokit you might be able to get away with SPC cam bolts for toe and camber correction.
Zero your toe so that you don't chew through tires. Camber is nowhere near as important as toe when it comes to tire wear.
And also like gary said, make sure you get the car aligned correctly.
If you get the eibach prokit you might be able to get away with SPC cam bolts for toe and camber correction.
Zero your toe so that you don't chew through tires. Camber is nowhere near as important as toe when it comes to tire wear.
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