The car is not lowered excessively. Stock bushings held for 127k miles. The Bilstein shocks are fine..ALL AROUND. I had the front 2 off and checked them out and cleaned them up.
nothing visible on the compression rod bushings. The rear Bilstein have no leaks either.

I'll stick with my theory about the movement of the stud to alter caster. Will report findings when I confirm.

 

But you only busted one side; both sides are wildly out of spec.

 

I only broke one side. I beat the hell out of both of them, and I know they moved. The slotted hole in the brace has to be there for this reason.

what is stock caster range? I can't quote it off the top of my head. What is yours at mighty ScraggleRock?

and "wildly out of spec" is relative to a stock car with stock equipment. Mine is neither.

I know in my heart though that the answer is in the movement of that stud.

we used to set up drift cars at max caster to accomplish more contact patch at full angle and maintain camber. Alignment settings are fluid things and highly dependent on the cars use.

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His aren't wildly out of spec. My car is lowered (probably more than yours Erik) and with the new poly bushes I have 9* and 8.1*. Your front left is 9* and so is mine.

I'm guessing your front right (at 9.7*) is the one that broke and you welded on right?
That would support your theory for sure.

The range is 7.4* to 8.9*

 

Yes, the front right (passenger) side was the broken one.

thanks for the info everyone. The car is still much more nervous feeling than I would like, and more than I've experienced before so I'll keep plugging away at it.

may go back to sears again Saturday morning, loosen that under brace and put some pressure on the compression rods to see if caster changes.

 

What's wild to some is mild to others I suppose. I would not be able to live with those specs tho.

 

My alignment is super bad. Since I've got the g I've needed to replace my control arms. I'm thinking about replacing the whole suspension to fix my problem . I've already added megan coilovers. Any suggestions on what control arms I should get? Also any suggestion on the camber kits ?. I'm new to this so I was also wondering what is everything I will exactly need.

 

I couldn't stand the twitchiness on the road anymore. I put the back of the car up in the air and reinstalled the camber adjusters after zeroing them out, and zero'd out the toe eccentrics too. I lubed the bushings and bolts with grease and put the car back down on raised blocks to tighten it all back down under full weight. The lube was to make sure the bushing and arms weren't binding.


I broke out the straightedges, level and string and set the rear alignment up racetrack style.


Result is much better on the road, but still not like I want it, or like it used to be before the adjusters were installed. I have a question though for those with these same alignment adjusters.. how do you accomplish camber and toe #s in spec? I'm unable to get the toe close to zero where I want it, unless the rear tires have at least 2* negative camber.


I honestly don't care about being exactly in OEM spec, because the car is lowered slightly. I know for a fact though that there are other members here that have lowered g35s that have almost stock spec alignments.


My goals for alignment is slight toe out in the front, and pretty much zero toe in the rear, with minimal rear camber to save on tire wear since the car is a daily and I put a lot of miles on her. The current rear tires lasted me about 8k miles.. but they are Azenis, and I'm not easy on them.