So my mechanic installed my akebonos calipers ,new brake pads, and bleed it twice
Rr,lr,fr,lf

And installed new ss brake lines

And now my brake pedal goes down too much...
Any advice?
I noticed the new ss lines look skinnier than the oem ..

 

Make sure all 8 bleeders are facing up.
Bleed them again and again and again...I went around my car like 8-10 times lol.
But I had enough wrenches to leave one on every bleeder, set up with hose and catch bottle.
Some say to smack em with a mallet to free up any hidden air bubbles stuck in them.
I went onto my country road and stomped on them a few times then bled them again thoroughly.
It's OK to throw away a bunch of fluid to make sure your car will stop.
Also back before my akebonos I tried the Motive power bleeder on my regular brakes. Could not get that thing to work no matter what. FWIW

 

Your mechanic probably rushed the job and mickey moused it. Like the previous member said, you'll need to keep bleeding until no air is left along the brake lines, usually two person job. Go back to him and have him re-do the bleeding, ask him too if he did proper bedding of the pads. Your life depends on it, make sure it is done right.

Plus you need to be in the Irvine meet tomorrow so chop chop!

 

naw he doesnt do hacks jobs

i told him put that oem hoses back they look bigger
and hes going to bleed criss croos and innner caliper and outter caliper with the battery disconnected

thats what i read so far

and im trying to have it done asap so ill go to the irvine meet lol

its an hour drive tho at that time ill need to take someone so ill carpool

 

I only got a little better ...
If I pump it 2xs it's perfect
But still soft at the beginning then hard at the end

Idk.idk.idk

 

Brake master cylinder might be on the way out, probably should have been replaced if you were doing a full caliper replacement. I'd bleed it again (full bleed job) in a week and see if it fixes the problem, if not replace the brake cylinder, sometimes bubbles are a pita to get out of some calipers.

You made sure the brake fluid didn't get jostled around too much right? Like rolling around in the back of your car while going to deliver the vehicle to mechanic? It's SUPER important to let it settle for a full day before use if there's any chance the fluid was shaken up much.

 

Gotta throw the towel in with you here Edgar,
The oem rubber hose looked fatter so you put them back in vs skinny stainless steel lines.
Well the fat VQ fills the bay better than lsX huh......
Please don't drive with your "its ok if i pump it twice *******

 

If you can still stomp the brakes hard enough with a single pump to trigger the antilocks then it's still safe to drive. If you can't antilock on dry pavement then re-bleed and go from there.

 

Be sure to bleed them in the right order. The order doesn't seem standard on our cars. Maybe your mechanic ran the cylinder dry while bleeding and sucked air in. Took me a couple tries when I replaced my seized caliper

 

Take it back

Hope you paid by credit card

Telcoman

 

Yeah that is an odd order for bleeding the brakes? Glad you pointed that out because I never would have thought to check for it.

 

I did everything you guys said and everything is working fine
But now when the car is cold the brakes squeak really loud but only when I go in reverse .....

 

Did you put high temp brake grease on the shims that contact the caliper pistons.

 

Do our cars have an OBDII ABS bleed procedure? My FJ Cruiser (same as Tacoma/4Runner Brakes) had a heck of a time getting the last little bit of air our of the car. Took it to a shop with a Toyota scanner and they were able to run the ABS pump while bleeding the lines out and it helped a lot. Best $55 brake bleed I have ever paid for. Before that I ran 2.5 liters of DOT4 through the system bleeding it myself with gravity, mityvac, and pedal pump techniques and I couldn't get it all out myself. After the OBDII procedure my pedal was very firm, right at the top, and always consistent.

 

Check the factory service manual available online, there is a nonstandard bleed order for the vehicle that needs to be correctly performed.