Camber Kit w/ Coilovers Question
#16
It doesn't seem that way. Which is why I have stated that for OP's case, the easiest thing to do is just align to OEM specs and call it a day. However, he's asking valid questions so i am merely providing answers. That's what a forum/community is for right? to educate and share good info with other enthusiasts.
#18
Lots more understeer. You can die. Haha mine is 0.07 front and 0.32 rear.. my ***** floppy af tho. I'm definitely hanging on more around fast turns. My front tires are also 40mm more narrow than the rear tho. Hard to say exactly what yer gonna get. I would get a lifetime alignment and start experimenting.
This.
If you think about the fact that you're essentially creating extreme toe while turning (one tire in, one out), having a bit of toe out will make your car feel more like you're going in a straight line while turning. I wouldn't suggest this, for your daily driver tho. Not unless you are experienced and drive a lot of windy roads. Your steering can snap in either direction much more easily; you're constantly "steering" and correcting your track.
OP, you definitely will need a camber kit front and back and toe bolts in the back. You don't want to set them at 0 camber tho. The camber adjustment on a rack is really just guess work for the dynamic alignment. Dynamic camber being what your car is doing at 55mph. For a great daily driver, I do -1.8 degrees in back and -1 degrees up front. This pretty much covers all bases short or circle tracking. I can carve hills pretty swiftly but also have very even tire wear.
If you think about the fact that you're essentially creating extreme toe while turning (one tire in, one out), having a bit of toe out will make your car feel more like you're going in a straight line while turning. I wouldn't suggest this, for your daily driver tho. Not unless you are experienced and drive a lot of windy roads. Your steering can snap in either direction much more easily; you're constantly "steering" and correcting your track.
OP, you definitely will need a camber kit front and back and toe bolts in the back. You don't want to set them at 0 camber tho. The camber adjustment on a rack is really just guess work for the dynamic alignment. Dynamic camber being what your car is doing at 55mph. For a great daily driver, I do -1.8 degrees in back and -1 degrees up front. This pretty much covers all bases short or circle tracking. I can carve hills pretty swiftly but also have very even tire wear.
I too am just about to get a lifetime alignment package. Like what others suggested, I think you should set it all to factory spec. Drive. See how it feels and move forward with small increments till you get the balance between feedback/handling/tire wear that you are happy with.
#19
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