PLEASE HELP G35 Coilover problems
PLEASE HELP G35 Camber arm** problems
I just put rear camber arms on my g35, however when I went to drive it felt as if the car was almost floating along the road.(Roads where wet) almost as if the car has rear stearing on it. I’m unsure as to if I need to replace tow arms in the back or if it’s another part.
Last edited by Ty Kamys; Jan 7, 2019 at 01:00 PM.
I just put rear camber arms on my g35, however when I went to drive it felt as if the car was almost floating along the road.(Roads where wet) almost as if the car has rear stearing on it. I’m unsure as to if I need to replace tow arms in the back or if it’s another part.
Any changes in the suspension has the possibility of throwing the alignment off, so yes it is something you should do.
incorrect. you need to get an alignment. your rear feels loose and drifty because you have some serious toe out. the camber arm you replaced is not the exact same length and the cam bolt didn't get reinstalled at the same rotation.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

I'm still trying to figure out what this thread has to do with coilover problems. OP I highly suggest you do some learning about suspension, modifying it and alignment. It'll help you evaluate what you need to do in the future to optimize your ride.
I would like to say that I put coilovers because I had just ordered them seconds before I made the post, however I am wondering if I have to replace and get ajustable tow arms or if the ones I have will work for now
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order a set of SPC 72055 cam bolts and dremel out the subframe in order for the larger cam to be able to rotate around (instructions and cutting template will be included in the packaging) you must replace your TOE bolts (the bolts that hold the spring bucket to the rear subframe) with the SPC ones. This will be enough adjustment to correct your toe issue. A proper adjustable toe arm will replace your spring bucket, the only advantage to using this is that adjustments made by the arm won't slip over time like a cam bolt. Unless you're road racing your car competitively, its pretty unnecessary. You should know all this BEFORE you went and bought suspension. now please go get this done and get aligned before you wrap the car around a tree.
order a set of SPC 72055 cam bolts and dremel out the subframe in order for the larger cam to be able to rotate around (instructions and cutting template will be included in the packaging) you must replace your TOE bolts (the bolts that hold the spring bucket to the rear subframe) with the SPC ones. This will be enough adjustment to correct your toe issue. A proper adjustable toe arm will replace your spring bucket, the only advantage to using this is that adjustments made by the arm won't slip over time like a cam bolt. Unless you're road racing your car competitively, its pretty unnecessary. You should know all this BEFORE you went and bought suspension. now please go get this done and get aligned before you wrap the car around a tree.
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18,299
Likes: 1,488
From: By the sea, Tx
G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods

Oh my young grasshopper you do have lots to learn. Head over to Google and search "What is a car wheel alignment and how does it work". This will provide you infinitely more information than you will ever get here and you won't have to wait minutes, hours and days between asking your questions and receiving responses. Plus searching is a forum rule so you might brush up on those as well while you're educating yourself on the finer points of alignments.
Oh my young grasshopper you do have lots to learn. Head over to Google and search "What is a car wheel alignment and how does it work". This will provide you infinitely more information than you will ever get here and you won't have to wait minutes, hours and days between asking your questions and receiving responses. Plus searching is a forum rule so you might brush up on those as well while you're educating yourself on the finer points of alignments.
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Raleigh, NC
Coupe, Premium package, sport suspension
Originally Posted by Ty Kamys
I’m here asking about the tow arms to see if I need ajustable or if the old ones will work and no one has answered that for me yet. I’ve been on google and I even called local shops.
There is no such thing as "tow arms." You've received multiple solid responses, including two that correct you to "toe bolts" and "camber arms." I'm not being flip with this question: is English a second language for you? If so, folks might have more patience to help, but right now you're complaining of no help when you've been given quite a bit.
English is my first language haha. Sorry for all the confusion I have been going on google and see tow arms but if they are not a thing okay. You are right I did have my answer I just really would like clarifacation if those are not tow arms in the back rear front what are they? With all the camber I am running it’s causing the tire to gain positive camber in the front as well. But if all I need is an alignment sorry for all the posting just getting very conflicting and confusing responses.
What i think you're looking at and keep calling the toe arm is actually the TRACTION arm. lots of people replace that in order to adjust their toe settings, but that is wrong. The length of the traction arm dictates dynamic toe under suspension compression. it changes your curve entirely, so don't do it unless you know how to chart your toe throughout the suspension stroke. Changing your traction arm length will change the way your rear suspension behaves under acceleration/braking and cornering, basically any time your suspension isn't at rest, don't touch it unless you know what you're doing because you probably aren't making it better.
You say that you're gaining positive camber in the front because of all the camber you're running? That statement does not make any sense at all. your suspension doesn't go positive under compression. Lowering your car in the front also gives you more negative camber. Unless you put on an adjustable front upper control arm and set it to be positive, there is no way for you to have positive camber in the front. Maybe you ran into a curb and bent everything?
take some notes. go google terms you don't understand. look up suspension diagrams and familiarize yourself with part names, their function, and how suspension works overall as a system. The responses aren't confusing nor conflicting. They all basically say the same thing (your alignment is screwed from you changing parts around, and you need to go get aligned with the proper supporting parts). I think the issue here is you don't understand the technical bits and aren't willing to figure out what it means. We will spoon feed you to some degree, but please put in some effort on your end too.
As for you question about TOE arms (tow is what you call AAA for). On our cars, the toe arm is what we call the spring bucket. an adjustable arm is not necessary unless you're racing competitively. Only advantage with an aftermarket arm is that you can LOCK the toe setting along with a lockout bolt on the subframe, that way it won't slip during a race the way an eccentric bolt possibly can.
What i think you're looking at and keep calling the toe arm is actually the TRACTION arm. lots of people replace that in order to adjust their toe settings, but that is wrong. The length of the traction arm dictates dynamic toe under suspension compression. it changes your curve entirely, so don't do it unless you know how to chart your toe throughout the suspension stroke. Changing your traction arm length will change the way your rear suspension behaves under acceleration/braking and cornering, basically any time your suspension isn't at rest, don't touch it unless you know what you're doing because you probably aren't making it better.
You say that you're gaining positive camber in the front because of all the camber you're running? That statement does not make any sense at all. your suspension doesn't go positive under compression. Lowering your car in the front also gives you more negative camber. Unless you put on an adjustable front upper control arm and set it to be positive, there is no way for you to have positive camber in the front. Maybe you ran into a curb and bent everything?
take some notes. go google terms you don't understand. look up suspension diagrams and familiarize yourself with part names, their function, and how suspension works overall as a system. The responses aren't confusing nor conflicting. They all basically say the same thing (your alignment is screwed from you changing parts around, and you need to go get aligned with the proper supporting parts). I think the issue here is you don't understand the technical bits and aren't willing to figure out what it means. We will spoon feed you to some degree, but please put in some effort on your end too.
What i think you're looking at and keep calling the toe arm is actually the TRACTION arm. lots of people replace that in order to adjust their toe settings, but that is wrong. The length of the traction arm dictates dynamic toe under suspension compression. it changes your curve entirely, so don't do it unless you know how to chart your toe throughout the suspension stroke. Changing your traction arm length will change the way your rear suspension behaves under acceleration/braking and cornering, basically any time your suspension isn't at rest, don't touch it unless you know what you're doing because you probably aren't making it better.
You say that you're gaining positive camber in the front because of all the camber you're running? That statement does not make any sense at all. your suspension doesn't go positive under compression. Lowering your car in the front also gives you more negative camber. Unless you put on an adjustable front upper control arm and set it to be positive, there is no way for you to have positive camber in the front. Maybe you ran into a curb and bent everything?
take some notes. go google terms you don't understand. look up suspension diagrams and familiarize yourself with part names, their function, and how suspension works overall as a system. The responses aren't confusing nor conflicting. They all basically say the same thing (your alignment is screwed from you changing parts around, and you need to go get aligned with the proper supporting parts). I think the issue here is you don't understand the technical bits and aren't willing to figure out what it means. We will spoon feed you to some degree, but please put in some effort on your end too.







