I have a 2007 infiniti g35x sedan awd, I notice that when I take a sharper corner or get on the highway , and accelerate hard my rear end seems to "wobble" I just replaced the shocks and mounts in rear, in process of replacing front struts. Rear shocks made the problem a lil better but still sways/ wobbles, thinking about replacing the front & rear sway bar, bushings & links. Any other suggestions? Thinking maybe replacing the trailing arms. Car has 233k open to suggestions. My bushings are probably a lil worn.

 

Get the car up on jackstands, grab every component with a bushing as well as the wheels and give it a good aggressive shake on the X, Y, and Z axis to find out what's worn out.

Don't just randomly throw parts at it, troubleshoot and find out exactly what the issue is. The rear end doesn't typically have the bushing wear issues that the front has, if I had to just make a blind guess I'd suspect wheel bearings.

 

I did both the rear wheel bearing last summer, tbh the car does have some rust issues. It has 232k on it. I got a rear driver caliper that's hanging up/dragging but it seems to start dragging after I've driven it for a lil bit, I had the same issue with my front calipers, turned out to be bad brake lines so I guess ill start there and while it's up in air I'll put it on jack stands and do what I can, im in wheelchair but I still like to do what I can access. If I can't find anything I got a local mechanic that's pretty good. I really appreciate the response & suggestions.

I got another question, about a week after I bought it the drivers side power seat stopped working, the memory seat functions & the power mirrors all7 stopped working. I've replaced the switches at the seat. I picked up a parts car figuring the actual seat was the issue but I took the drivers seat out of the parts car and swapped it in my daily driver,, nothing but if i take the seat out my car and put it in the part's all the previously mentioned issues work. I spoke to a electrical auto repair specialist, and he recommended the BCM , but the passenger seat works fine they are on the same fused circuit. I've checked every fuse , passenger compartment, under hood etc. So may be a bad wire but the power lumbar support still works on the driver seat so it's getting some power. The kicker is I need to put my manual chair in & out of my back seat , luckily the power seat quit in a position that I can manage disassembling and reassembling the chair. And getting the chair in the back seat. I'm not a small guy so it would be amazing if I could recline the seat.

This is my 4th G x series sedan , started with a 03, then a 04 , got a 06 but I got tired of the older body style. I've had the 07 sedan for roughly 2 years. Love these cars, I don't think I'll own anything else, only drawback is its like a 4 door 2 seater, not much room in the back

 

EDIT: Read the last line about the ADP, that's what I'm thinking is the issue.

Ok so just to verify, you own a 2007 sedan? If so I'll move this thread to the appropriate subforum, it's currently posted in the V35 chassis section (2003-2006 sedan, 2003-2007 coupe) and the 2007-2008 sedan is the V36 chassis.

The brake caliper issues are almost always the slide pins, have a shop remove and grease them without disassembling anything else, usually fixes the issues. Anytime the car gets new brake pads the slide pins need to be greased and a lot of times it's overlooked. The slide pins are those two long bolts that hold the caliper to the bracket. Personally I like to use Permatex 24110 it works great on nearly every street application and is good enough for some light autocross too.

As for the suspension issue though, I suggest calling a local independent reputable alignment shop (basically NOT Firestone or any of your chain big brand alignment, and not the dealership, if you aren't sure who to call then start calling around to your local race teams, engine builders, machine shops, and see who they recommend). Tell the alignment shop that you have something wobbly on the rear of your car and need a diagnostic, after you replace the worn components you probably will need an alignment anyways and those local old school alignment shop guys actually know HOW the alignment works and are typically very good at diagnosing worn components. Places like Firestone and such basically just know how to "make the box on the computer turn green instead of red", and sometimes they can't even do that!

Now, if the vehicle is the V36 chassis then these next steps apply, if not let me know and I'll post troubleshooting steps for the V35 chassis.

The seats can be a bit tricky though, so EVERY function of the seats works when you put it in the donor car? The BCM doesn't actually CONTROL the switch, all it does is supply a single power circuit to the seat switch, then the switch splits the circuit to the seat motors so forward/back, recline, seat cushion up/down. All of the motor control functions are then handled directly through the switch. If you have any motor functions on the seat at all then the problem shouldn't be the BCM.

The lumbar support controller is a separate circuit that does not pass through the BCM.

Here is the fuse that powers through the BCM to the seat switch, it's located in Fuse Block - J/B which is the cabin fuse box, fuse 10, it's a 10amp fuse. If you do have any seat functions then it shouldn't be a fuse/bcm issue though, if the seat motors all work in the other chassis then it shouldn't be a seat switch issue. Not exactly sure why you would have that exact situation either? Need more details on this one. The circuit does have a Y in it though where it splits off to the driver and passenger seat so the wire may have broken somewhere between that Y and the driver seat. There is also a GROUND that may have broken, on the seat button harness the SB (sky blue) wire is the 12v power, the B (black) wire is the ground. Follow that black wire and make sure it's actually grounded, that would be the most likely wire to break.

The seat ADP automatic drive positioner (seat memory) is ALSO powered by Fuse Block - J/B circuit 10, plus it controls the seat motor function as WELL AS mirror function.

Now, since you also lost mirror function it MIGHT be related to the ADP itself failing, if you also can't tilt/telescope the steering wheel then it could definitely be the ADP since those are the 3 functions it handles, seat, mirror, steering wheel position. I'm not 100% sure where it's at on the V36 chassis, there is also a CIRCUIT BREAKER that's usually in the center console right about level with your right knee when you're sitting in the driver seat.

The ADP is located almost directly above the GAS PEDAL. Personally I would start by swapping the one from the donor vehicle since at least 2 of the components that it controls are malfunctioning. Make sure to disconnect the battery on the vehicles before unplugging/plugging it in. It's a computer and Nissan computers are pretty notorious for not liking a hot swap.

 

1st just let me say thanks for the help,
yes it is a 2007 G35x Sedan ,so that would make it V36 chassis. As far as the rear left brake goes , like I said when I pull out the garage the car feels right, rolls free and coasts like normal. After a lil driving , I can feel the car start to drag, when I'm at stop sign / light like right at end of my street as soon as I release the brake the car coasts/ pulls ahead under its own idle, and power. But after a lil driving I have to give it a lil throttle to get it to roll like it was, I can hear and feel the engine working a lil harder than usual.

That's the 1st thing I did was pull the caliper bolts/slide pins out & I cleaned (just wiped the old grease off no cleaner or anything) & gave the small piece of rubber at the end of the pin a good looking over, reapplied the permatex brake lube and made sure the caliper had a lil movement back & forth before I put the wheel back on. I'll get new slide pins from local parts store. They aren't expensive. I already got the brake hose. It will give me something to do Tomorrow.

As far as the seat , I may have left out a detail. When I first got the car, the power moon roof motor had dropped out of position, all 3 screws that held it in backed themselves out of place. It came like that when I purchased it. I reinstalled the motor and got the screws back in with a dose of loctite. Operates normally since. Also my steering wheel tilts & telescopes as it should. All the controls on the steering wheel , cruise control, stereo functions and Bluetooth phone all work fine. But In the process of the moon roof repair. I realized that my rear passenger floor behind the drivers seat was pretty wet, idk if the moisture from the floor being wet could have caused some oxidization to one of those components under the seat. But I guess since the seat worked in donor vehicle that's not really a issue, I got it dry with a heater and fans and I haven't had a issue with that since. But maybe the ground you spoke of in the previous post got rusty or something. I'm gonna start with rechecking the fuse you identified, then move on to inspecting the harness . That kinda got me, the fact that the passenger seat works and that's on the same fused circuit, so that might suggest that the issue starts after the wires split off and go to each individual seat. It's like there's no power to the the harness under the seat. Also there is a spot worn right thru the carpet on the floor in front of gas pedal where your heel would go in the carpet under the floor mat. idk if thats where the wires run that go to the seat. I had to hook up a lead with the harness out of donor vehicle so I could get power to the seat motor that slides it forward and back , the seat is all the way back and therefore the bolts to remove the seat were unreachable without sliding it forward. So it's really simple to unbolt the seat and tilt it back exposing the harness and other stuff under the seat. Idk if the moisture and whole in carpet would have any effect but want you to have the full picture!

Could this seat need all the motors to be connected to get power every where kinda like a pass thru situation & Could a bad ground under the seat keep the power mirrors from working?

So since my steering wheel tilts & telescopes & the functions on the steering wheel work does that rule out the ADP? If not what other things do the ADP control.

Idk if u could track down a wiring diagram that includes the wires going to the seats. Or point me in the right direction to find 1, I have a Chilton manual that's supposed to cover 2003-2008 but since they changed chassis in 2007 most of the manual and information is directed towards the old chassis and body style, usually just contains a sub paragraph with something like, on vehicles 2007 & later etc. It has some wiring diagrams in it but nothing specific to the seat.

I'm gonna get the brake issue squared away tomorrow & start looking under the seat. It's been over a year since I've messed with the seat issue, so I'll go back thru and check everything.

As far as the rear suspension, I'm gonna bring it to a different shop than I usually do and see what they suggest. They have a dedicated alignment tech that's pretty good. They are just a lil further away & labor is a lil more but at this point. I'd like to hear a second opinion.

I really appreciate you taking your time to assist me. Hopefully I'll be able to figure it out. Look forward to your reply.


***UPDATE*** so I went to second shop, I know the alignment tech personally. He went for a ride and got to feel the wobble/sway in rear end. Well he checked all the rear suspension components, no issues. So he put the alignment racks on it, turns out my "toe" was way out. Also he reset the steering angle sensor. Seems to have solved the sway when cornering.
Also replaced the rear drivers caliper , seems to have taken care of the brake dragging.
Next is to tackle the power seat , memory seat & power mirrors.

A huge Thank you 🙏🏼🎯💯







Let me ask you this do you have a preference for auto part store brands.

 

So the hole in the carpet isn't the issue, the wiring harness is run along the center console I believe, then it splits and goes out to each seat. As for the wet rear carpet, that is usually from a clogged sunroof drain, shouldn't affect any of the electronics but keep an eye on that carpet, you might have to do some disassembly of the rear C pillar to unplug the hose.

First thing I would test is for power at the seat harness, it's the same harness on both seats so you can unplug both and verify that pin 1 (SB - sky blue) has 12v and pin 2 (B - black) has ground.

Test both seat harnesses so you can compare them.

Something else that you can do to check for a dragging caliper is to just jack up the car and spin the tires by hand. Jack point for the front is the engine crossmember, there is a large round "lump) for a service jack, rear is jacked from the differential.

Points 1 and 2 are for the jackstands, there's a little "notch" on the pinch rails where you center up the jackstands, 3 and 4 are the service jack (they call it garage jack) points.



Normally a caliper will drag all the time if it's an issue, not usually something related to hot/cold calipers.

As for the wiring diagrams, fortunately the ENTIRE factory service manuals are available online and hosted through Nicoclub, no account required. I strongly recommend downloading all the sections for your exact vehicle because sometimes Nissan North America can be a little pissy about Nico letting everyone use them for free even though Nico pays for those FSM's. The document starts at FWD - Forward, you will need to reference SE - Seats for the wiring diagram, it's a little confusing on the 2007 and newer FSM's because it will show the one-line diagram followed by a harness/pin diagram but if you want the ACTUAL electrical schematic you need to scroll to the end of the sub-section...

Wire color codes are in GI - General Information in the electrical section.

https://www.nicoclub.com/infiniti-service-manuals