I cannot bleed the air out of my 05 g35 sedan. Replaced calipers and master cyl. Tried bleeding the conventional way and with a vacuum pump. I still cannot get the pedal to push out the air. I get fluid but not a whole lot and it's not a good stream when I do a bleed. Do they make a scan tool to help actuate the ABS system?
Am I missing some kind of special trick to eliminate the air? MC was bench bled and I've cracked every fitting on the abs module to try to get air out. No luck.
Amy suggestions?

 

A simple scan tool won’t do it. You need a two-way scanner that can command it.

 

Ok, who makes one of those?

 

You can bleed the system EASILY with a Motive bleeder. They make an adapter cap so it screws right onto the brake fluid reservoir.

You don't need the ABS motor engaged to bleed the brakes, the system is in a normally open state. The motor engages to build pressure (same thing happens when you press the brakes, or when you pump up the motive bleeder) and the solenoids bypass/divert pressure onto or off of specific lines.

You can also just use the traditional 2-person method but it takes forever. Motive bleeder is definitely the way to go.

 

Also, the G35 uses a nonstandard bleed order, not the "furthest tire to closest tire". It WILL malfunction if you don't bleed the brakes in the proper order.

 

I've tried a vacuum pump just not particular unit.
what's the bleeding sequence? I've looked in the manual but I don't see it.

 

Rr, lf, lr, rf

 

yep, read in some posts about a "special" sequence. Never made any sense. Furthest away first and then the next.

 

It's not a vacuum pump, it's a pressurized tank like a Round-Up sprayer, it has an airtight cap you screw on to the brake fluid reservoir. Then you pump up the jug of fluid to build up around 10psi of pressure.

Once it's pressurized you can bleed all 4 calipers in about 2 minutes effortlessly.

Try doing the correct bleed order first. The "farthest away first" only matters on the INTERNALS OF THE ABS BLOCK. That's why the order matters, it's widely reported that these cars end up with a mushy pedal if you don't follow the correct bleed order from the FSM.

 

Malfunction? Please elaborate. Can it be unfubared?
Thanks for all the great info. If only my eyesight were better along with my reading comprehension I might have fixed it already.

Got a pressure bleeder and it barely flows 15 psi. No air bubbles. Still no pedal.
I'm guessing that bleeding it normally screwed up a valve or port? I'll try the FSM sequence. Got my fingers crossed.

 

No it shouldn't have screwed anything up. I'm guessing you have a failed master cylinder or something like that.

What happens if you press the brake pedal while it's under pressure?

 

Also, the brake fluid does come out somewhat slowly, it's not like it shoots out like a garden hose or anything. It doesn't come out one drop at a time though, you will be able to watch it travel up 18" of clear tubing over probably... 2-3 seconds or so unless you unscrew that valve on the caliper a full turn or more. Then it definitely comes out fast but it also leaks around the threads on the bleed nipple.

 

I replaced the MC 2x. No change.
Do you mean under pressure from the power bleeder?
Unscrewing the bleeder more doesn't effect the flow. It'll travel 18" in a minute. With the power bleeder. Normal bleeding I'll have to look again.

 

Yeah when you press the brake pedal while it's under pressure from the power bleeder, does that substantially increase the flow of brake fluid?

Does it do this low flow thing on all 4 calipers? If you haven't checked the other 3 you may just have a damaged bleed nipple that won't flow properly.

 

no, had the wifey on pedal duty while I bled.
Flow is the same all around.
Power bled again starting at the mc and all through the abs module. Got a bubble out of RL. 😁
So I thought. Power bled all 4 wheels using using the factory manual. Battery disconnected. Pedal gets hard after pumping but will go to the floor.