How to get a deal on an 07 G35
How to get a deal on an 07 G35
It seems like a lot of people have been paying quite a bit for 07 G35s lately, so I thought I'd post some info that should help potential buyers find a good deal.
First thing you should do, check the auto listings in your local newspaper. As we speak, Infiniti is offering the "limited summer engagement" sale. The catch is that it's limited to a few cars in dealer inventories, and the prices typically aren't posted on the dealer's sites, but they do appear in newspaper ads. If you can hunt down one of these, you will save a fortune!
Here's an example, this Saturday I looked in the auto section of the Washington Post (DC, VA, MD). Found an ad from Infiniti of Chantilly. They have two 07 coupes on sale for $31,995 (down from $37,040). I noted the model # (99217) and original price, went to their website, and found the entry for one of the sale cars (see PDF below). Note that on their site, it was listed at $37,040. And I'm willing to bet that's what's on the sticker too. If you showed up at the dealership with no knowledge of the ad, they would probably try to sell you another car at a higher price.
But I guarantee you that if you walked into that dealership with the ad and told them you would buy that car right now (at the sale price) if they dropped the freight charge, they would sell it to you.
Here's what you would save (excluding taxes):
Original price = $37,040 + $815 (freight) = $37,855
Sale price = $31,995
Difference = $5860
First thing you should do, check the auto listings in your local newspaper. As we speak, Infiniti is offering the "limited summer engagement" sale. The catch is that it's limited to a few cars in dealer inventories, and the prices typically aren't posted on the dealer's sites, but they do appear in newspaper ads. If you can hunt down one of these, you will save a fortune!
Here's an example, this Saturday I looked in the auto section of the Washington Post (DC, VA, MD). Found an ad from Infiniti of Chantilly. They have two 07 coupes on sale for $31,995 (down from $37,040). I noted the model # (99217) and original price, went to their website, and found the entry for one of the sale cars (see PDF below). Note that on their site, it was listed at $37,040. And I'm willing to bet that's what's on the sticker too. If you showed up at the dealership with no knowledge of the ad, they would probably try to sell you another car at a higher price.
But I guarantee you that if you walked into that dealership with the ad and told them you would buy that car right now (at the sale price) if they dropped the freight charge, they would sell it to you.
Here's what you would save (excluding taxes):
Original price = $37,040 + $815 (freight) = $37,855
Sale price = $31,995
Difference = $5860
Original price = $37,040 + $815 (freight) = $37,855
Sale price = $31,995
Difference = $5860
Sale price = $31,995
Difference = $5860
The MSRP I came up with on that optioned car is 37055 with dest. charge, base MSRP for 5AT -33450, moonroof -1000, sports pkg -1600, paint splash guard -210, trunk mat -80, dest. charge -715.
So they are going to charge you twice for dest. charge and a procseeing fee?
Did you actually walk into dealership and ask them if that two cars are still available? chances are when you or anyone else do ask for that price? they going to say it was sold and try to sell you different car with much higher price, they dont call it teaser ad for nothing.
Originally Posted by Curt941
I thought you had to have premium package to get sport suspension package on a 5at coupe?
Originally Posted by limeg35
Actually, the freight charge is add to the sale price not to the original price from reading that ad, plus the processing fee of 299.
The MSRP I came up with on that optioned car is 37055 with dest. charge, base MSRP for 5AT -33450, moonroof -1000, sports pkg -1600, paint splash guard -210, trunk mat -80, dest. charge -715.
So they are going to charge you twice for dest. charge and a procseeing fee?
Did you actually walk into dealership and ask them if that two cars are still available? chances are when you or anyone else do ask for that price? they going to say it was sold and try to sell you different car with much higher price, they dont call it teaser ad for nothing.
The MSRP I came up with on that optioned car is 37055 with dest. charge, base MSRP for 5AT -33450, moonroof -1000, sports pkg -1600, paint splash guard -210, trunk mat -80, dest. charge -715.
So they are going to charge you twice for dest. charge and a procseeing fee?
Did you actually walk into dealership and ask them if that two cars are still available? chances are when you or anyone else do ask for that price? they going to say it was sold and try to sell you different car with much higher price, they dont call it teaser ad for nothing.
The reason I'm so sure is because I did exactly that! I got a teaser during the winter engagement sale. $5K off plus freight waived. And I talked to two dealerships, both were honoring the sale and didn't try to pull the "teaser was bought" move.
P.S. I think the biggest mistake people make is that they get what I call the "new car hard on". Dealerships can smell it from a mile away, and they'll rape you. Hell, I'm guilty of it myself, learned my lesson a while ago though.
Last edited by aero; Jul 30, 2007 at 03:55 PM.
Originally Posted by aero
P.S. I think the biggest mistake people make is that they get what I call the "new car hard on". Dealerships can smell it from a mile away, and they'll rape you. Hell, I'm guilty of it myself, learned my lesson a while ago though.
Originally Posted by M.I.A. BlazinVQ
So basically ur saying that we have to play the psychology game? Like if u see the EXACT car u want u cant get all googly-eyed and get a 'hard on' over it? Im about to buy a new G coupe in mid August and want to get the lowest price possible.
This is long, but here's what I'd do...
First option is to look for a dealership honoring the summer sale. You can look for the teaser ad in your local paper (probably on Saturday or Sunday), or you could call or email your local dealerships. Play hard to get, specifically mention the limited summer engagement (that you've seen ads for $5K off), and make it clear that $37K, even $35K is out of your price range. But at the same time, throw them a bone. Tell them that if they give you the sale price ($5K off) on a model you want, you'll come in and buy the car. Go to the dealership, and one of two things will happen, they'll either bs you and tell you the car was sold (or they can't honor the price anymore, blah blah) or things will work in your favor and they'll honor the price they told you. If they pull bs, walk out and try another dealership. If they honor the sale price, there are still more games to play! They'll want to go through all the paperwork, you need to ask what the final price will be out the door. They'll tell you about the processing fee, freight charge, taxes. You need to say "ouch, I wasn't expecting the fees to be that high, I don't know, that's past my price range - I'll tell you what, if you drop the freight charge I will buy it right now." They're not gonna let you go over $800, cause remember, you're their dream, the quick sale. They'll probably pull the "I have to talk to my manager" routine, and they may come back and say they can't drop the freight charge, but you need to stick to your ground, there's a 99.999% they'll concede if they think you'll buy right then. The other thing you need to know (before going in) is your credit (FICO) score and the interest rate that you should qualify for. Because even if you win round one and get a great price on the car, they're gonna try to screw you with a high interest rate if you finance through them. You'll probably have to make a concession there though, if you get thousands off the price of the car, you're not gonna get the best interest rate you can get, but at the same time, you don't have to settle with what they initially offer (use your FICO score as evidence).
The second option is to wait for the G37 to come out and get one of the G35s they're trying to clear off the lot. Your savings here are really dependent on demand for both cars. Even if the G37s are flying off the lots, if demand for the G35 is strong, you won't have as much wiggle room. But you still have the "quick sale" advantage. Make them an offer, say you'll buy the car for $x right now and play the negotiating game. If they're unreasonable, go somewhere else.
Last option is to wait until mid to late November for the winter engagement sale. This one is really iffy, because there may not be able any 07 coupes left by then. But if there are, they're gonna be really desperate to get rid of them, and you can probably get $5K off for the sale, plus some more with negotiating.
I'd probably go with option one and use the other options as backup plans.
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^^^ wow thas really good info, r u like a sales guru or something?
jk... talking seriously though, im definitely going to go with option one! it seems like it'll work and i can get a great deal, thanx!
jk... talking seriously though, im definitely going to go with option one! it seems like it'll work and i can get a great deal, thanx!
Originally Posted by M.I.A. BlazinVQ
^^^ wow thas really good info, r u like a sales guru or something?
jk... talking seriously though, im definitely going to go with option one! it seems like it'll work and i can get a great deal, thanx!
jk... talking seriously though, im definitely going to go with option one! it seems like it'll work and i can get a great deal, thanx!
Originally Posted by aero
Because even if you win round one and get a great price on the car, they're gonna try to screw you with a high interest rate if you finance through them. You'll probably have to make a concession there though, if you get thousands off the price of the car, you're not gonna get the best interest rate you can get, but at the same time, you don't have to settle with what they initially offer (use your FICO score as evidence).
Originally Posted by PursuitofG
Can you recommend any sites or rule of thumb to determine what's ideally your interest rate or money factor should be per your FICO score?
Under the step one menu: select "60-month new auto"
Under the step two menu: select your state
It'll show you FICO score vs. interest rate.
Only bad thing is that it doesn't show the rates for a 6 year (72 month) loan. That's one option to consider. You'll have lower monthly payments, but on the downside, it's gonna take an extra year to pay off the car. Infiniti does offer them though.
Those interest rates are way too high, unless prime rate has gone up 3~4% in last couple of years you should able to get 3~ish percents lower than whats on that site...
2003 my score was around 680, got 5.15% from E-loan and dealership match it from Chase.
2005 my score was around 700, got 4.3% from Chase again.
If you want to find out at what interest rate you "should" be getting? try get yourself pre-approve from any lending company before walk into dealership, I used both E-loan and lending tree, got similar rates from both (5.15 and 5.25%) back in 03, when I went to dealership? they quoted me 6.5% and was holding rather firm at that rate, but their tone changed quite quickly after I told them that I was pre-approved and with certain percentage of interest rate.
2003 my score was around 680, got 5.15% from E-loan and dealership match it from Chase.
2005 my score was around 700, got 4.3% from Chase again.
If you want to find out at what interest rate you "should" be getting? try get yourself pre-approve from any lending company before walk into dealership, I used both E-loan and lending tree, got similar rates from both (5.15 and 5.25%) back in 03, when I went to dealership? they quoted me 6.5% and was holding rather firm at that rate, but their tone changed quite quickly after I told them that I was pre-approved and with certain percentage of interest rate.
Originally Posted by limeg35
Those interest rates are way too high
Originally Posted by limeg35
Those interest rates are way too high, unless prime rate has gone up 3~4% in last couple of years you should able to get 3~ish percents lower than whats on that site...
2003 my score was around 680, got 5.15% from E-loan and dealership match it from Chase.
2005 my score was around 700, got 4.3% from Chase again.
If you want to find out at what interest rate you "should" be getting? try get yourself pre-approve from any lending company before walk into dealership, I used both E-loan and lending tree, got similar rates from both (5.15 and 5.25%) back in 03, when I went to dealership? they quoted me 6.5% and was holding rather firm at that rate, but their tone changed quite quickly after I told them that I was pre-approved and with certain percentage of interest rate.
2003 my score was around 680, got 5.15% from E-loan and dealership match it from Chase.
2005 my score was around 700, got 4.3% from Chase again.
If you want to find out at what interest rate you "should" be getting? try get yourself pre-approve from any lending company before walk into dealership, I used both E-loan and lending tree, got similar rates from both (5.15 and 5.25%) back in 03, when I went to dealership? they quoted me 6.5% and was holding rather firm at that rate, but their tone changed quite quickly after I told them that I was pre-approved and with certain percentage of interest rate.
Originally Posted by onin24eagle
In the last 3 or 4 years prime has gone from 4% to 8.25% where is has been for over a year now.
In June of 05 it was 6%
and now its 8.25%...
Yet I got lower interest rate in 05 than in 03, and early this year I still got 4.5% for Prius
...So I'm not sure if prime rate have that much to do with what rate we get for car loans, maybe I was thinking of The Fed Funds Target Rate and not the WSJ's prime rates, which is 3% higher than Fed Funds rates.


