I should send mine to our qc dept and have them calibrate it to see what 1.5 years of driving around in the trunk has done to it.

What is the amount you would expect it to be out by? Just as a guess. When an automanufacturer says 90ft/lbs, what would you say is a fair variance? +/- 1ft/lb? 5ft/lbs?

I'm willing to bet that mine is still in reasonable specs - should be interesting.

 

Over time if you have it set at a range the internal springs will take a set, and it can be off by a few percent. Just by returning it to a low setting and leave it overnight the torque wrench readings should improve after those springs have relaxed. I used to calibrate them within 1% and I would check the calibration during each critical job at the plant. The wrenches always had to be returned to me for accuracy checks and recalibration a minimum of once a year. If the wrench had been taken care of, it always stayed within spec. I have had my 1/2" drive torque wrench for 20 years and it always stayed within spec, I never had to recalibrate my own wrench. I used the same equipment to do the checks as Snap -on since I was trained at their facility.
For your car within 2% is great, and as I said most importantly don't leave it set at your last torque setting, return it to a low setting.

 

I appreciate your comments and understand them completely (I was in qc before become netadmin, some time ago). I do return the wrench to it's lowest setting (it's something that's stated right in the skimpy manual that came with it), but I will continue to leave it in the car. If I were to leave it at home, I would have to store it in the house to maintain any different temp than what is seen in the car. The garage is not that much warmer.

For me, the advantage of having the wrench available, if I have a flat on the road - means that I won't be relying on the wrench that came with the car.

So, at 2% variance, that would be 1.8ft/lbs +/-, assuming 90ft/lbs. Just curious as to why you pick that number. It's clearly not because the wheel would fail if the lugs were torqued to, say 95ft/lbs.

GEE35X, I'm not trying to come off as critical towards you. I hope I'm not coming across as that - I just find it interesting.

 

FWIW..
I keep mine in the house as well.

A couple of points...
-How many times do you actually have a flat.
-On road re&re I just want to get on the road again.
hand tighten is fine untill you get home to re-torque.

 

Not a problem Akrus, I picked 2% just because I know that is the spec mine has stayed within.
As you know when torquing wheels it is probably more important to use a proper torquing sequence, and realistically as long as your torque on the wheel studs is within 5% of manufacturer's spec it should be fine.
And by the way a lot of truckers with the big rigs keep torque wrenches in their cabs all the time.

Good points Ian, I have had one flat while driving in well over 30 years (knock on wood )

I also get **** after having the wheels done at a tire shop or at the dealers. I always back the lug nuts off and re-torque them myself the next day, then I check the torque again a few days later, I think it is even more important now a days with alloy rims.

 

Wow, I didn't know that Wayne. I've got to go out to the garage and get mine and reset it to 0. It's been subjected to temps down to about +4 Celsius and swings up to +30. I've also made the error of storing it at the last torque setting. Unfortunately the only instructions I received with it were in French and that didn't help me.

Is it likely to be inaccurate now?

 

Deane it should be okay if you lower the setting down to the low settings. The internal springs on a lot of the wrenches would take a set when loaded like that, but, after you lower it in a couple days it should relax within reasonable tolerance.
Also do not back it all the back as far as it will go just take it to the lowest setting on the dial.
Usually it specifies all of this with the torque wrench.

If anyone is still using the old beam style torque wrench they can disregard this.

 

Never torque lug nuts on aluminum wheels with an impact gun. You will risk cracking the aluminum wheel. Aluminum is much softer that steel and needs to be handled very carefully. Always use a torque wrench and never overtorque the lug nuts. Always tighten the lugs in an alternating star pattern around the wheel gradually increasing the amount of torque with each pass until the desired torque is reached. In other words, don't tighten the lug to 92ft/lbs the first time and then go on to the next lug. BTW, mine are always torqued at 92ft/lbs.

Hope that helps and IMHO I really doubt that the tire tread pattern has anything to do with the car fishtailing to the right.

 

Thanks Wayne, I brought it in the house now and have it set at the lowest setting 20 lbs. It was at 80 pounds before.

I also have a smaller beam style wrench that I knew I wouldn't have to worry about.

 

Good info Sammy....
FWIW here's a bit more.

I also use a little anti-seize on the cone of the nut.
This eliminates binding of the steel nut on aluminium & torque is more accurate.

Also, as Wayne mentions...
it's *very* important to re-torque after a couple of days or 100 klicks.
If you haven't done this, you will be amazed how much it's off torque.

 

I just did a quick search for torque wrench care on the net and found this that might help ( I just realized this is a Bad Weather thread )

Causes For Failures In Torque Wrenches

Use: The more often a wrench is used the faster it will wear.

Misuse: Any measuring instrument that is used for any purpose other than what it was designed for usually will experience premature failure or become suspect in its accuracy (i.e. dropping or using it as a pry bar or a hammer).

Improper Maintenance: Failure to inspect, lubricate, adjust, replace worn parts and failure to recertify to a known traceable standard causes the instrument to become suspect.

Improper Storage: Storing any instrument in a location that has high temperatures, humidity or in a corrosive atmosphere may cause failures. Storing adjustable click style wrenches above the lowest setting will cause premature main spring wear.



Torque Wrench Care

Wrenches should be stored in cases if equipped. Do not store in areas of high temperatures, humidity or in areas where corrosive vapors are present.
Adjustable "Click Style" wrenches should be stored set to the lowest setting on the scale.
Ratchets should be inspected for wear and cleaned and lubricated often.
Handle "Pivot Pins" should be inspected to ensure free movement of the handle.
Beam style wrenches should never be etched on their beam or have labels placed on the beam.
Keep moisture, paint, solvents from entering the inside of all wrenches. Wipe wrench often.
Have wrench repaired as needed and recertified yearly at a minimum. Recertification should be determined by usage. Wrenches should be calibrated at 20, 40, 60, 80 and 100% of Full Scale or as instructed by the manufacturer. If a wrench is ever dropped it should be recertified prior to use.
Wrenches should be calibrated and certified yearly at a maximum. Depending on usage, a torque wrench may require more frequent calibration. Selection of calibration standards or calibration vendor should be done with caution. Not all standards can certify all tools. The same is true of calibration labortories. Even though a vendor may be accredited the scope of accreditation should be read and understood. Many accredited laboratories have a limited scope of accreditation. These limitations may be due to accuracy, range technical competence, etc. If you are shopping for an accredited laboratory please compare our scope with a vendor that you are now using or are thinking of using.

 

I've had at least one flat on every car I've owned. Also, as I'm about the only mechanically inclined person in the family, I also get the call in the event any of my immediate family members find themselves in trouble - be that a flat tire, a no start issue or whatever.

As I've said, I seriously doubt that my torque wrench will be out by much due to the temperature it's lived through.

The factory recommended torque setting for the 2005 sedan is, I believe 85ft/lbs. I can't seem to find the manual online right now and there's no way I'm going out to the car... I did find this over at infinitihelp.com:

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Infiniti/QR/04G35.pdf

Look at pg 10 - Suspension. At the bottom, they list W/Lug Nut Torque - 72-87 lb/ft. Keep in mind that this is for the 04 G, as they don't list the 05. I don't imagine that there'd be a big difference.

Seems like this thread is becoming the all-encompassing monster thread - throw in talk of wipers and it's complete, LOL!

 

Interesting that they state "Do not store in areas of high temperatures", but say nothing of cold. I also hate that they don't specify what their definition of "high temperature" actually is.

So, in my understanding of the above, storing the wrench in the trunk of my car should pose no problems.

 

ahhh I see, Neo

 

LOL.. just to keep this rambling thread interesting....
Just came accross this pic which shows asymetrics mounted;
Continentals in this case.
....guess which car