when do you guys decide to put away the G for the winter?
#16
Originally Posted by kingrukus
valve seals, piston rings, etc.
extra steps include removing the wheels, putting the car on jack stands, stuffing the exhaust holes with steel wool, putting a can of baking soda in the interior to absorb moisture, removing the battary, and a whole lot of other stuff. there is more, i just need to research it.
extra steps include removing the wheels, putting the car on jack stands, stuffing the exhaust holes with steel wool, putting a can of baking soda in the interior to absorb moisture, removing the battary, and a whole lot of other stuff. there is more, i just need to research it.
Thanks.
Your piston rings won't crack or dry from sitting. You really won't have to worry about that with valve seals either over a 4 or 5 month period.
Putting a car like the G on jack stands (on the frame) isn't good for the suspension components. I've put steel wool in the exhaust a few times when I had some concern with mice. The battery part I mentioned in an earlier reply.
Bottom line for me is most of that stuff is overkill. I've done all of that and a lot more like pulling plugs/spraying anti corrosion etc. before and now just do the basic clean, fluid change, pump up tires, cover car. Too easy.
#17
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Originally Posted by RBull
Thanks.
Your piston rings won't crack or dry from sitting. You really won't have to worry about that with valve seals either over a 4 or 5 month period.
Putting a car like the G on jack stands (on the frame) isn't good for the suspension components. I've put steel wool in the exhaust a few times when I had some concern with mice. The battery part I mentioned in an earlier reply.
Bottom line for me is most of that stuff is overkill. I've done all of that and a lot more like pulling plugs/spraying anti corrosion etc. before and now just do the basic clean, fluid change, pump up tires, cover car. Too easy.
Your piston rings won't crack or dry from sitting. You really won't have to worry about that with valve seals either over a 4 or 5 month period.
Putting a car like the G on jack stands (on the frame) isn't good for the suspension components. I've put steel wool in the exhaust a few times when I had some concern with mice. The battery part I mentioned in an earlier reply.
Bottom line for me is most of that stuff is overkill. I've done all of that and a lot more like pulling plugs/spraying anti corrosion etc. before and now just do the basic clean, fluid change, pump up tires, cover car. Too easy.
#18
Originally Posted by canucklehead
if you're referring to me, i drive on all seasons, not summers. i do agree that even "all seasons" are not great in cold weather. however, we get so few days of legitimate cold weather that it hardly pays to have 2 sets of rubber. like i said, the G car is parked on incliment days anyhow.
we have winters for the CRV and that makes a HUGE difference compared to the all seasons.![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
we have winters for the CRV and that makes a HUGE difference compared to the all seasons.
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
![Biggthumpup](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/biggthumpup.gif)
And yes even all seasons aren't the greatest in the coldest of weather, and apparantly only about 40% as effective as snows in the white stuff.
C.
#19
Originally Posted by RBull
Thanks.
Your piston rings won't crack or dry from sitting. You really won't have to worry about that with valve seals either over a 4 or 5 month period.
Putting a car like the G on jack stands (on the frame) isn't good for the suspension components. I've put steel wool in the exhaust a few times when I had some concern with mice. The battery part I mentioned in an earlier reply.
Bottom line for me is most of that stuff is overkill. I've done all of that and a lot more like pulling plugs/spraying anti corrosion etc. before and now just do the basic clean, fluid change, pump up tires, cover car. Too easy.
Your piston rings won't crack or dry from sitting. You really won't have to worry about that with valve seals either over a 4 or 5 month period.
Putting a car like the G on jack stands (on the frame) isn't good for the suspension components. I've put steel wool in the exhaust a few times when I had some concern with mice. The battery part I mentioned in an earlier reply.
Bottom line for me is most of that stuff is overkill. I've done all of that and a lot more like pulling plugs/spraying anti corrosion etc. before and now just do the basic clean, fluid change, pump up tires, cover car. Too easy.
Crappy tire has the formula 5w30 motor oil on sale this week for $9.99 for 4.4L...of course i would need an extra 0.6L ontop of that.
#20
Originally Posted by God|ZIlla168
what about the gas? should we use stabilizer some say no some say yes
Deane answered that in a previous post but be very careful what you put in the tank.
Apparantly whatever goes in can affect the catalytics, and 02 sensors adversely which is why Nissan does not recommend anything in the gas.
As Deane explains, our fuel systems are very well sealed to worry about any varnish or sludge buildup.
I do make an exception and add gas line antifreeze to my rides for winter months to absorb any moisture that collects in the tank.
A few ounces per tankful should suffice.
Colin.
#21
Originally Posted by kingrukus
With respect to fluid change, all of hte fresh fluid being put in now before storage, will need to be replaced again in the spring when the car is ready to come back out on the road, correct? If so, can I just get by by putting in cheap fluids instead of my more expensive amsoil synthetics, and draining it out once the spring comes?
Crappy tire has the formula 5w30 motor oil on sale this week for $9.99 for 4.4L...of course i would need an extra 0.6L ontop of that.
Crappy tire has the formula 5w30 motor oil on sale this week for $9.99 for 4.4L...of course i would need an extra 0.6L ontop of that.
#22
Originally Posted by Msedanman
Eric,
Deane answered that in a previous post but be very careful what you put in the tank.
Apparantly whatever goes in can affect the catalytics, and 02 sensors adversely which is why Nissan does not recommend anything in the gas.
As Deane explains, our fuel systems are very well sealed to worry about any varnish or sludge buildup.
I do make an exception and add gas line antifreeze to my rides for winter months to absorb any moisture that collects in the tank.
A few ounces per tankful should suffice.
Colin.
Deane answered that in a previous post but be very careful what you put in the tank.
Apparantly whatever goes in can affect the catalytics, and 02 sensors adversely which is why Nissan does not recommend anything in the gas.
As Deane explains, our fuel systems are very well sealed to worry about any varnish or sludge buildup.
I do make an exception and add gas line antifreeze to my rides for winter months to absorb any moisture that collects in the tank.
A few ounces per tankful should suffice.
Colin.
#23
Originally Posted by RBull
Absolutely right, but only the engine oil. I don't bother with the filter for storage and just do it in the spring. Too funny...I bought the same oil on sale for the G for storage as well. I won't bother buying more oil just to top it up for storage. A couple of starts down a half liter is meaningless.
My father in law said that fuel stabilizer is a must, he uses it in his boat when he stores it. Also I read that fuel will go bad after it has sit for about 60 days.
#24
Registered User
iTrader: (37)
I use the fuel stab in my car. I have never had any issues with O2 sensors ect however i dont have cats anymore. In my situation (Twin Turbos) I would risk a bad O2 sensor over my fuel deteriorating and POPing an engine due to detonation in the spring. I still try to stay out boost on my winter tank of fuel. Which is IMO a good idea to take it easy on a tank of fuel that has been sitting for several months weather you use the stab or not some like some hate it
. It works for me.
![Dunno](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#26
Originally Posted by elrooko
So in the spring, you only change your oil and not all your fluids? I just finished changing every fluid in the car now so I won't have to do it again in the spring? Also to confirm, you don't change the filter now and only change it in the spring? That's good for me as I imported a case of the Mobil1 oil filters from the states before the dollar took a nose dive so I really didn't want to change one now, then another in the spring.
My father in law said that fuel stabilizer is a must, he uses it in his boat when he stores it. Also I read that fuel will go bad after it has sit for about 60 days.
My father in law said that fuel stabilizer is a must, he uses it in his boat when he stores it. Also I read that fuel will go bad after it has sit for about 60 days.
I'm not so sure about the time it takes for fuel going bad. I've read that for many years. Today's fuel has a lot of additives and our fuel system is well sealed. I haven't had any issue with pre-ignition, poor running etc. My car starts instantly after storage and runs perfectly. I would much rather do what Infiniti recommends than the old school method (which I used to do too). I don't want to risk a problem with the cats etc.
However, I use fuel stabilizer in my lawn mower, snow blower, chain saw, grass trimmer, lawn tractor, ATV, snowmobile (when I had those last 3). Some manufacturers recommend fuel stabilizer or remove all fuel and some only want you to remove the fuel.
#27
valve seals, piston rings, etc.
extra steps include removing the wheels, putting the car on jack stands, stuffing the exhaust holes with steel wool, putting a can of baking soda in the interior to absorb moisture, removing the battary, and a whole lot of other stuff. there is more, i just need to research it.
extra steps include removing the wheels, putting the car on jack stands, stuffing the exhaust holes with steel wool, putting a can of baking soda in the interior to absorb moisture, removing the battary, and a whole lot of other stuff. there is more, i just need to research it.
Valve seals are usually made of some sort of steel, same with piston rings. These won't crack or dry up because of sitting for long periods of time. The only problem with valve seals is that when the car sits all winter and you start it up often (ie weekly), the cold oil is sitting in the bottom of the oil pan and takes time to get up into the top of the engine, where the valve seals are located, especially when the oil is cold and thick. It's the wear that happens when there is little or no oil around the valve seal that causes damage.
Don't start your car often in the winter unless you are using the block heater which keeps the oil warm.
JMHO
![Smilie](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#28