You won't need a new crank unless yours is damaged the OEM cranks are good unless you are stroking it. With Forged rods and pistons it is also recommend that you bore the engine 20 thou over to remove any imperfections in the cylinder walls as well as deck the block to make sure it is flat. Also you should balance the rotating assembly and you will need bearings and the list starts..... but trust me it dosent end. Then you have the engine apart you might as well do cams, then you need springs if you go that far maybe port the heads? Maybe over size valves now you have a potential monster you better get a bigger rad, bigger fans and an engine oil cooler would help keep things happy what about meth injection those cosworth intakes sure are shiney............. welcome to my world

 

It's already started... I know I just got the valve body upgrade ordered and should be home by Wednesday- Of course that raised the question of tranny cooling so then do you go with something heavy (ie: great) or something cheap. Frankly- I'm not going to be tracking it (well... okay- maybe just to blow my dad's doors off his 300C haha) and working it hard enough to really get a lather on... it doesn't even really get that hot around here!

Now we start talking about little things- like you said once that engine comes apart... the parts are all going to cost the same... what takes money is taking apart and putting the engine back together over and over again. If it's anything like Ikea furniture- each time brings with it new potential problems.

I don't have your patience, nor your aptitude (hence the mod shop thread)... So if that's going to happen, it'll be all at once (and on purpose as opposed to by accident I hope!)

Sounds like the rods are the weak point for the engine... but it also looks like the engine needs to be just as taken apart to replace them as with the crank and pistons... So I think the plan will be to get that "stage 2" stuff done over the winter.

Never did hear from Cam about getting a base map for those 550cc injectors for the COBB through email. I noticed that aidon has a haltech system for sale for 1500 with the harness... wonder if he would take my COBB in trade plus cash- ought to ask him! Haltec sure seems to be the way to go in terms of EMS...

Was also kind of wondering- can the bottom end be separated from the rest of the engine while it's still in the car on a hoist? I've been under there a couple times but haven't pulled the plastic guard off it to get a good appreciation of what's involved. I'm just wondering if doing a rod upgrade would be that much? Eagle rods, I've read, seem popular and adequate?

Thanks again... (again)

 

I don't have any experience with these things, but if it were me, not having the skills to (re)build a VQ, I'd look at a proven package already assembled by professionals, like this one:
http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=277&page=1

I think by the time you bought the components and paid someone to bore, deck, balance, etc., you'd be in for at least that much anyway. IMO you're getting into overkill with even that setup, if all you want is a reliable, good performing street package and not MechaGodzilla, use Sasha's kit to boost your stock block to a safe 380 whp, and fear no 300C

 

That'd DEFINITELY be phase 2 lol. But yes- with the exception of the rods in my situation... It looks like the rest of the motor might be up to whatever I might throw at it anyway. From what I've read that is definitely the achilles heel of the VQ. Keep the tranny cool and look at that upgrade... But until then- perhaps we keep things down to a "conservative" 380 and some mad torque and, as the Beatles would say (quite a few times, I might add), let it be.

 

I think 380 would definitely be more than satisfactory. It's as$ tonnes of power haha. If you get tired of it you can always turn the page at a later date.

 

I think that would be a nice boost from my meagre 220 or so...

Anyone else got some ramblings to add? Saw a ceramic coated upper plenum in the US side of the marketplace... looked pretty sharp. Any opinions on that?

 

^^ I kinda like it...'bumpy' finish which is different, plus the ceramic should hold up well without the need for the occasional re-polishing.

 

I noticed that ceramic coated plenum and timing chain cover as well. I've been getting the itch to buy something but I'm not sure about the finish. It's hard to tell from the pics.

 

If I was going to do it again I would stick with a stock block and stick with the 400whp/400wtq range. For me it was fast fun and reliable. Try that on for awhile. If you feel the need for more....power is worse than crack. Then I would look into building the engine. Its is not a good idea to just swapp out rods and leave the rest of the engine stock, I doubt you would even find a shop that would do that. At bare minimum I would do new rods, 0.020 over pistons that means the block bored 0.020 over and I would have everything balanced of course all new bearings as well. But for $1500 while everything is apart I would also upgrade the cams and springs this would have the potential you need to be in the 550-600whp range. Egale rods would be fine for that many have made over 600whp with them, Aries, JE and CP all make good pistons. If you have a ton of cash to burn or get carried away like me Pauter, cosworth or Carillo rods for high end stuff and Cosworth pistons = $$$$$$.

I doubt Cam will have a base map for 550cc/injectors with a turbo set up. Usually the only base maps tuners have are from similar setups they have tuned in the past.

As far as ECUs and tuning stick with your COBB or a new solution might be availible in Alberta real soon!!!

 

Oh. What is this about? What is the new solution?

 

Gord's building a standalone EMS out of parts he found in the dumpster behind Radio Shack.

 

Hmmmmmm tantalizing! Thanks again for the comments Gord- I think for my knowledge level and pocket depth for now sitting at 400 is a cozy idea. If Sasha shows me around a bit during the install, I hope I'll learn what I need to become a bit more self sufficient.

So now I wonder... if I have to go to LSI to get the new injectors put in... and get a tune... is it going to cost the same as spending the 1500 or so to buy that Haltec off of Aidan and get Sasha to tune it?

HMMMMMMMM


Frick.

 

It may be nothing.....have to wait and see

Install the injectors in Edmonton and trailer the car down to LS or drive it down and install them in the parking lot its a 45min job. It will run like $hit but you could proboly even drive it down with the 550cc it will be rich but that would keep things safe with the turbo on.

I think the Haltech will be the most expensive way to go but it might be the simplest everything could be done at Sashas house!!

 

You know, Gord... if you were a chick I'd SLAM you for playing such games!

 

I am not really sure anything is happening yet, it was a brief conversation over a week ago that I have not followed up on yet. When i am home from holidays I may have more details I wish it was availible sooner it would have saved me a ton of money

You only fight chicks...LOL even if I was a chick you would hurt your back trying to SLAM me!!!! A b1tch slap or a punch would likely be a better option.