welp, I fu*ked up. For some bizzare reason I thought the Carnetix P1900 DC-DC PSU had the option of outputting 12v on it's primary output. It doesn't Which means my plan of running one of the 500GB SATA drives off of the primary output and the second 500GB SATA drive on the secondary otuput of the P1900 (which DOES do 12v), and power the 5v rails from two Opus 15w 5v POLs won't work.

Instead, I've got a Carnetix P1290 on order. Funny thing is, this actually works out better, as the 12v output is strong enough to power both drives and the 5v output is strong enough to power the drive's 5v rails, which eliminates the need for the Opus 5v POLs. Makes wiring a bit cleaner and less stuff to ground, power, mount, etc. Unfortunately the P1290 won't be in until Monday, so my massive storage won't be up and running this weekend But I still have the internal 2.5" 120gb drive in the PC so all should be fine.

The other good thing is my buddy who is also doing a carPC install hadn't purchased his P1900s yet, so he's just going to buy mine from me. All in all I actually make $10.

 

I thought the USB to SATA adapter took care of the power through the additional USB connector? That's all 5V, correct? Why are you needing 12V power for the drives.

 

3.5" IDE drives require both 12v and 5v. What you are thinking of (two USB plugs, one for data+power and one for additional power only) only works (at least that I've seen) for 2.5" drives. The power consumption tables for every 3.5" drive I've seen states 12v usage. Don't know how this could ever work with power only coming from USB. Regardless, I am using these:

http://www.cooldrives.com/seatatousb20.html

I liked these because the power plugs into the adapter (which plugs into the drive), rather than having to connect the adapter and power to the drive separately. It allows for one disconnect+connect for swapping drives.

You can't see in the picture, http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/cooldrives/IMG6125.jpg, but the power plug on the adapter is a standard male-sided molex connector, like you see on the hard drive. I used a voltmeter on the adapter's power plug coming out of the AC adapter and confirmed that two of them were ground, one was +5v and one was +12v.

Used one of these: http://www.compusa.com/products/prod...ct_code=864722 and cut the male end off, leaving me with two female molex with bare wires at the other end. Solder these wires to the +12v, +5v and ground leads from the P1290 and I should be in business.

 

Shoved the external wireless antennas in the back window to get a feel for how they would look and fit. I was a bit disappointed that they do not fit all the way to the left and right corners of the rear window... but after looking at that spot more, I realized that was a bit unrealistic for me to want. Sorta forgot that the window slopes, so corners are going to be a tighter fit, plus the Bose speaker grills make a large portion unusable without doing some modding (which I refuse to do). Still, they look cool, pictures to come in the enxt day or two (supposed to rain all day saturday here).

Regardless, mini-PCI card is installed and working like a champ.

Connected up my screen after receiving it back from repair @ mp3car, works like a touchscreen should now! Just need to install the sucker (Sunday). All in all it's coming together, I can almost taste it (and it tastes like mobile computing!)

Came across this program: http://www.cirond.com/winc.php supposedly a free little app that automatically detects and connects to any available wireless network. It probably works much better than XP's crappy built in "Zero Config Wireless" service.

Decided to put the GPS receiver in the front window, very far right (passenger) corner. Just dropped it down a hole below the A-pillar and the USB cable is right there at the carPC location ready to be connected.

Only remaining variables are:

- Making some sort of an inset mounting board in the passenger kick panel area for mounting distribution blocks and a Opus 5v POL

- Running a pair+1 of RCAs (one for XMDirect input to carPC and one for future rear-view camera) and a USB cable up the drivers side of the car from trunk to dash.

- Testing hard wiring my XMDirect-USB adapter to a 12v source

 

I'll have to try that program. I don't like the windows wireless config very much...

I'm currently busy trying to get my sound configured right, as well as cleaning up all the igly wiring.

Dave

 

Final equipment locations/placement:

Computer: Upper Glovebox
Carnetix P1900 (powering PC, USB hub and Xenarc Screen): Zip tied to the left side of the DIN converter in upper glove box
Carnetix P1290 [when it comes in] (powering two hard drives): Zip tied to the right side of the DIN converter in upper globebox
Opus 15w +5v POL (powering USB 8-1 card reader & USB hub combo): passenger kick panel
USB Sound Blaster: Behind shifter
USB Hub #1 (for connecting component to PC): behind shifter
USB 8-1 Card Reader & USB Hub Combo: Lower glovebox
Distribution Blocks for power and ground: Passenger kickpanel
XMDirect: Passenger Kick Panel
TimeTrax XM adapter: Passenger Kick panel
GPS Receiver: Passenger side front window/dash
Wifi Antennas: Rear deck
2 SATA drives: lower glovebox
--- Audio ---
Soundgate Preamp (for boosting input levels into PAC-AAI-NIS2): behind shifter
PAC-AAI-NIS2- dunno how to explain it. Amazingly stuffed behind the HU area (this might have to move when I install the DigitalWheelz Screen)
JL 500/5- Under drivers side trunk support (where stock amp used to be)
4080 Driver side sub box for JL 10w3v2

whew. Lot of equipment shoved into the front of the car. I made a wooden mounting board that is inset into the passenger kick panel. Makes the distribution blocks almost flush with the metal opening of the kick panel.

LOTS of pictures tomorrow and hopefully a 99% complete install.

 

Your comments on the choice of your screen would be appreciated. I'm looking into getting the StreetDeck package- and was wondering If it'd be better to go with the -housing- with the TSV, or if I should buy like a Xenarc or Lilliput.

L8r

 

To the moderator: Any way this thread could be made available as a Sticky? How long do these threads stay around in the forums? just curious -- and I don't want to loose track of how crazy Amthar really is about electronic toyzz..

 

The DigitalWheelz screen and housing IS a Xenarc. If you have the $, I'd definately go with a digitalwheelz screen. The quality of the product is amazing, and the Xenarc screens are top notch. It really looks stock/OEM. I've shown pictures of installed DigitalWheelz screens to people and they usually say "I thought you said you were putting an aftermarket screen in."

I would definately go with the DigitalWheelz screen over the in-dash flip out screen currently packaged with StreetDeck. Or I'd wait for the G35 Edition of StreetDeck to come out, it will have the digitalwheelz screen packaged in with it along with a case that fits in the spare tire rim.
In other words, I couldn't be happier so far

 

I'll echo amthar's comments about the screen; the DW screen is the way to go. Sure, it isn't motorized, but I leave mine out almost all the time, except when parked in a shady area. It looks very stock, and it allows you to keep your stock head unit, which makes the car less theft-friendly. Despite my large array of amps, high end speakers, carPC, and all, if you look in the window, it looks completely stock, even if you look in the trunk, still stock looking.

Very worth it, in other words.

If you get an in dash flip out screen, you have to get the double din kit, and then an aftermarket headunit, and install all that, as well, and what benefit do you get? Well, you get the neat motorized flip out effect, and you get to keep the upper cubhole above the stereo. That's about the only benefit. You lose the stock look, and you lose the steering wheel controls that go with the stock head unit.

So, my strong recommendation is to get the DW screen.

Dave

 

Speaking of the screen, having a real problem installing it right now Trying to get ahold of GOD_OF_CPU to see if he can help me. I'll post more in a bit. Caelric, you installed the screen right? Maybe I could give you a call.

 

Well today was pretty much suck. The screen isn't working right which means I'll probably have to do a complete teardown of the dash again. The PC works with the exception of the ignition turn-on wire (it's not hooked to anything so the PC doesn't turn on). One of the terminals on my distribution block (ground) is fuc*ed. My 5V output on my P1900 doesn't seem to be working (USB hub won't power up) and I blew a fuse on the P1900. About the only thing that worked out well is my wooden mounting board for the passenger kick panel and my ability to route wires around inside the glovebox area and still have everything close and look normal.

sigh Oh well, guess I should have seen it coming, everything was going too easy I'll post soon with a description and pictures of my screen issue. It's just that the magnet doesn't hold the screen up. If I'm doing up a hill, the screen falls. If I gun the gas, screen falls. If I sneeze, screen falls

On a lighter note, this was my 1000th post

 

Did you adjust the position of the magnet? I know thats a simple question, but sometimes it's the simple things that you miss.

As for the 5V on the P1900, did you try testing the actual voltage on the output with a multi-meter? Sometimes that is the problem. I had a bad USB hub, and I thought it was everything else but the hub, but I finally tried the hub on house power, and sure enough, the hub was the problem.

I sent you a PM, by the way. Feel free to call me, just remember I am on Hawaii time, which is about 6 hours behind East Coast time.

Dave

 

Yes, I moved the magnet all over the go* dam* place, no difference. First, the magnet's "pull" is incredibly weak, unless I'm missing something. Second, it never makes any real contact with the metal bracket that screws into the cubby lid. Third, one of the screws for the cubby lid does not screw in, I think the threads in the cubby lid might be stripped.

Pictures and video to follow.

 

Moved post to thread of it's own

https://g35driver.com/forums/car-pc/94394-digtalwheelz-screen-problem.html