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  #1981  
Old 04-16-2012, 12:46 PM
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Assuming you don't have any loose or flaking paint you should be fine to do this process. The polishes can help make improvements to the light surface imperfections and the sealant will help prevent further damage. Good luck!

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  #1982  
Old 04-17-2012, 02:51 PM
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I bought my G back in January and it appears that someone used the wrong color touch up paint to fill in some chips and scratches. What is the best way to fix this?
 
  #1983  
Old 04-17-2012, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
If you have a picture that would be a big help? Are the marks on top of the clear coat or embedded in it?

A wax will not remove imperfections as they are meant to add protection. I would use a clay bar, Stoner Tarminator or an adhesive remover to remove a build up. If the residue was in the finish I would polish it with the Meguiar's M205 and then move up to the M105.

Greg @ DI
Thanks for the response =) I'll take a picture of the spot on my lunch break and post it up to see what you think
 
  #1984  
Old 04-17-2012, 06:11 PM
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Here are a couple pics of the pesky spot. And it looks like there is a clear coat (could just be a layer of wax) that envelopes the spot so you can't really pick at it, but you can definitely feel the difference in texture with the tip of my finger.



Close up shot:
 
  #1985  
Old 04-24-2012, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Good luck this weekend and keep us posted with the results.

Greg @ DI
Hi Greg

So I have a problem with the PC/white pad. I completed the first polish yesterday and started with the light polish today using a white pad. About half-way of doing the first panel (hood), the pad flew off. When I looked at it, the center of the pad melted onto the backing plate. I tried using it but there is no longer enough non-melted surface area to hold onto the pad properly. I felt around the PC and noticed it was pretty hot and it was the first time I was using it today. I didn't have any problems using it yesterday and I only used the PC on the Civic recently. Could the PC be bad and just heat up too much or is this common? Do I just need to get a new backing plate and pad?

thanks
 
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  #1986  
Old 04-24-2012, 10:20 AM
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Hey guy I got my g form iaai auction got few spot on the car that I would like to remove/make then less visible...




what product should I use??...
thx
 
  #1987  
Old 04-24-2012, 11:20 AM
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Im sure this has been asked already buy I was not able to read through all 133 pages to find it.. I just got done removeing some sort of glue residue that was my g using this very fine paste, however it also removed part of or all of the clear coat in that area. What would be my best chance in restoreing the shine to that particular spot? is there a special product for that, or would I just have to go through the steps of wash, polish, sealan and wax???
 
  #1988  
Old 04-24-2012, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbAndBlow
Here are a couple pics of the pesky spot. And it looks like there is a clear coat (could just be a layer of wax) that envelopes the spot so you can't really pick at it, but you can definitely feel the difference in texture with the tip of my finger
Thank you for the pic that definitely helps but I'm still not totally sure what happened here. It looks like the clear coat may have been burned there by a rotary buffer but again it's hard to say. If the paint has been burned unfortunately I think you'll need some touch up work (wet sanding and clear coat) to fix it up at a minimum. If it's not burnt and you think it's a build up on the surface I would try a clay bar, polish and maybe and adhesive remover. Again sorry I can't be certain, I'd probably need to see it in person. Good luck!

Greg @ DI
 
  #1989  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by V's G
Hi Greg

So I have a problem with the PC/white pad. I completed the first polish yesterday and started with the light polish today using a white pad. About half-way of doing the first panel (hood), the pad flew off. When I looked at it, the center of the pad melted onto the backing plate. I tried using it but there is no longer enough non-melted surface area to hold onto the pad properly. I felt around the PC and noticed it was pretty hot and it was the first time I was using it today. I didn't have any problems using it yesterday and I only used the PC on the Civic recently. Could the PC be bad and just heat up too much or is this common? Do I just need to get a new backing plate and pad?

thanks
I'm surprised to see that issue. If it heats up too much it could be you were using too much downward force, wrong pad/backing plate size, the pad wasn't pressed down all the way or the pad was defective. You only want to use about 15 pounds of downward pressure maximum when polishing and let the buffer move freely. Too much downward pressure can generate a lot of heat and the pad will break down. I would double check that your backing plate was also screwed in all the way and is still tight. Assuming the backing plate feels fine and there were no other defects with the unit I would assume it would be okay to use again with new pad if you can remove all of the old pad. If not a new backing plate may be needed along with a new pad. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI
 
  #1990  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by V's G
Hi Greg

So I have a problem with the PC/white pad. I completed the first polish yesterday and started with the light polish today using a white pad. About half-way of doing the first panel (hood), the pad flew off. When I looked at it, the center of the pad melted onto the backing plate. I tried using it but there is no longer enough non-melted surface area to hold onto the pad properly. I felt around the PC and noticed it was pretty hot and it was the first time I was using it today. I didn't have any problems using it yesterday and I only used the PC on the Civic recently. Could the PC be bad and just heat up too much or is this common? Do I just need to get a new backing plate and pad?

thanks
I'm surprised to see that issue. If it heats up too much it could be you were using too much downward force, wrong pad/backing plate size, the pad wasn't pressed down all the way or the pad was defective. You only want to use about 15 pounds of downward pressure maximum when polishing and let the buffer move freely. Too much downward pressure can generate a lot of heat and the pad will break down. I would double check that your backing plate was also screwed in all the way and is still tight. Assuming the backing plate feels fine and there were no other defects with the unit I would assume it would be okay to use again with new pad if you can remove all of the old pad. If not a new backing plate may be needed along with a new pad. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI
 
  #1991  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by orson8888
Hey guy I got my g form iaai auction got few spot on the car that I would like to remove/make then less visible...




what product should I use??...
thx
It's always hard to say for sure from pictures what is going on but thank you for attaching them. I'm not sure what happened there but it's definitely not good. From the pics it looks like there is a serious issue going on with the paint. Was it ever repainted? It looks like it was repainted and/or air bubbles are trapped in the clear coat coat. Do the marks feel like they are on top of the clear coat or is the clear coat perfectly smooth?

Greg @ DI
 
  #1992  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Thank you for the pic that definitely helps but I'm still not totally sure what happened here. It looks like the clear coat may have been burned there by a rotary buffer but again it's hard to say. If the paint has been burned unfortunately I think you'll need some touch up work (wet sanding and clear coat) to fix it up at a minimum. If it's not burnt and you think it's a build up on the surface I would try a clay bar, polish and maybe and adhesive remover. Again sorry I can't be certain, I'd probably need to see it in person. Good luck!

Greg @ DI
Thanks for the response man. I have had it clay barred, buffed and polished at a detailer a few weeks ago and at the time it looked like it had gone down in size slightly but no big difference at all. For the wet sanding though, is that something a reputable detail shop should be able to do? I have seen some horror stories on here about wet sanding DIY's and I am not game to try it myself lol.
 
  #1993  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bumb96
Im sure this has been asked already buy I was not able to read through all 133 pages to find it.. I just got done removeing some sort of glue residue that was my g using this very fine paste, however it also removed part of or all of the clear coat in that area. What would be my best chance in restoreing the shine to that particular spot? is there a special product for that, or would I just have to go through the steps of wash, polish, sealan and wax???
Are you sure it removed part of the clear coat? Sometimes when you remove an adhesive or debadge a vehicle the finish underneath is perfectly preserved where as the rest of the vehicle has the normal accumulation of swirls and oxidation. Therefore that area will look a bit two-tone. In either case I would use an adhesive remover and/or a clay bar to ensure all of the residue has been removed. After that you will have to polish the paint and I'd start off with a light polish like the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 and move up to the M105 if necessary. When you are done the surface should look uniform again and you can seal or wax afterwards for protection. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
 
  #1994  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
I'm surprised to see that issue. If it heats up too much it could be you were using too much downward force, wrong pad/backing plate size, the pad wasn't pressed down all the way or the pad was defective. You only want to use about 15 pounds of downward pressure maximum when polishing and let the buffer move freely. Too much downward pressure can generate a lot of heat and the pad will break down. I would double check that your backing plate was also screwed in all the way and is still tight. Assuming the backing plate feels fine and there were no other defects with the unit I would assume it would be okay to use again with new pad if you can remove all of the old pad. If not a new backing plate may be needed along with a new pad. Hope this helps!

Greg @ DI
I don't think I actually used that much force. I have been pressing ever so slightly, especially when the PC is directly on top of the panel (trunk, roof, hood). I used the detail guide and was gliding along at the 1" per second clip moving around in squares and filling in.

What is the best way to get the melted material off of the backing plate?
 
  #1995  
Old 04-24-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by V's G
I don't think I actually used that much force. I have been pressing ever so slightly, especially when the PC is directly on top of the panel (trunk, roof, hood). I used the detail guide and was gliding along at the 1" per second clip moving around in squares and filling in.

What is the best way to get the melted material off of the backing plate?
Glad to hear too much pressure was likely not the issue I've honestly never had this happen to me before so I'm not sure how to remove it. I guess you could try picking at it or using a plastic puddy knife. Hopefully one of those two helps out.

Greg @ DI
 


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