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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:38 PM
  #2101  
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From: Houston, Tx
and after a month, the way it sits now

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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:44 PM
  #2102  
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The only thing is that super glue and im going to the store to buy the 3m adhesive remover and hope it works and if not i guess i don't have a choice ill hit it with the sand paper and paint
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:48 PM
  #2103  
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From: Taylor Tx
Friend of mine got super glue on his 370Z and used fingernail polish remover till it came off. It went all over his roof, he said it took some time but he got it off and then put some wax back on it. I wish the best of luck for you.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 12:56 AM
  #2104  
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I just got my Works T1S out of storage now that I don't have to worry about winter weather and this corrosion/oxidation is on every wheel near the center cap. Physically, I can't feel anything out of the norm, so it has to be under the clear coat on the wheel. Here's a picture of the wheel with the most severe damage:

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What is the best method to approach this from? I'd like to get it figured out before putting them back on.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 10:30 AM
  #2105  
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Is it worth trying some Meguiars Metal Polish, that stuff has brought a beautiful shine to even the insides of my exhaust tips.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2014 | 11:36 AM
  #2106  
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From: Taylor Tx
My wife left some food in a Ziploc bag in her trunk for weeks. Well ya the car is rank, I pulled the drain plugs in her trunk removed all liners and spare tire then went to scrubbing with bleach cleaner and hosed it down. It smelled better but the smell of mold throughout the car is unbearable. What can I use to get the smell out?
 
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Old May 5, 2014 | 03:45 PM
  #2107  
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can this be fixed without repainting?
 
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Old May 5, 2014 | 04:02 PM
  #2108  
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Holy mother of god. That is worn through the clear and through the paint. It needs to be repainted.
 
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Old May 7, 2014 | 10:12 PM
  #2109  
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Hello all,

My name is Ivan and I will do my best to help out on the forums for the foreseeable future. Greg the owner has been extremely busy keeping up with the growth of Detailed Image (in large thanks to this forum), but didn't want to keep the forums unattended. I'll try to revisit as many threads and messages as possible, but if I miss something I encourage anyone to either post again or send a private message with any inquiries. I am a professional detailer in the Chicagoland area and I have been working with Detailed Image on a variety of projects for well over 5 years now. You can read more about myself as well as some articles I have written over the years on my profile page of the DI Ask-a-Pro Blog. I'm very happy to be getting back into the forum world and hope to assist many of you with any questions on car detailing products or techniques.

Well anyway, enough about me, let's get back on the topic of car detailing!

Ivan @ DI
 
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Old May 7, 2014 | 10:28 PM
  #2110  
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Originally Posted by DbigBoss
The only thing is that super glue and im going to the store to buy the 3m adhesive remover and hope it works and if not i guess i don't have a choice ill hit it with the sand paper and paint
Did you have any luck fixing it? While I've never dealt with such an issue (definitely a dumb move on the previous owner's part!) it will probably need some light sanding unless you find something that can break down the super glue while being safe on paint. If you go the sanding route, make sure to use a good solid block to try and make it as even as possible so as to remove as little paint around it as possible.

Originally Posted by schmizzle
I just got my Works T1S out of storage now that I don't have to worry about winter weather and this corrosion/oxidation is on every wheel near the center cap. Physically, I can't feel anything out of the norm, so it has to be under the clear coat on the wheel. Here's a picture of the wheel with the most severe damage:

What is the best method to approach this from? I'd like to get it figured out before putting them back on.
Unfortunately that looks like the clear coat has failed due to one reason or another (probably bad paint job around the center cap). There's no reason not to try some polish, but having experienced that on my old wheels it surely looks like it needs refinishing by a wheel shop. It could also be corrosion caused by moisture while in storage if the wheel is not clear coated.

Originally Posted by Z 2 G
can this be fixed without repainting?
Definitely looks like actual clear coat failure from the photo. Might be worth to try some machine polishing and see if it improves to where you can be happy with it, at least for a while, as otherwise you're looking at repainting unfortunately.

Hope that helps!

Ivan @ DI
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 07:09 AM
  #2111  
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future caution with clear bra

my bra probably installed new has turned black. they said car could not be inspected because bra was over headlights...
using a hair dryer I removed this covering. it was not hard to do and lights came out looking new...however the clear bra is still over the front and side fenders and is black. I was not worried so much about removing it over the hard plastic of lights but I am now thinking the paint maybe softer and easy to gouge the paint.
On the lights I fashened a scraper from a wooden venetian blind slat. grinding it down like a chisel and then sanding it to a dull point which worked well over the plastic...If I try this on the hood and gouge the paint the entire hood will need repainting...oh what to do.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #2112  
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Originally Posted by DbigBoss
The only thing is that super glue and im going to the store to buy the 3m adhesive remover and hope it works and if not i guess i don't have a choice ill hit it with the sand paper and paint

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is good for taking off super glue, or whats weird is, I used a raw egg to get it off my hands, I dont see why it wouldn't work for a vehicle.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 09:00 AM
  #2113  
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Originally Posted by slim17265
my bra probably installed new has turned black. they said car could not be inspected because bra was over headlights...
using a hair dryer I removed this covering. it was not hard to do and lights came out looking new...however the clear bra is still over the front and side fenders and is black. I was not worried so much about removing it over the hard plastic of lights but I am now thinking the paint maybe softer and easy to gouge the paint.
On the lights I fashened a scraper from a wooden venetian blind slat. grinding it down like a chisel and then sanding it to a dull point which worked well over the plastic...If I try this on the hood and gouge the paint the entire hood will need repainting...oh what to do.
What ever you do, leave it in the sun, or use a heat gun section by section as you work. Order you a plastic razor and once you begin peeling it, push at it with the razor; rock it side to side at an angle as if you are cutting the adhesive; while you are pulling the bra.

There is a clear layer over headlights that can chip/peel and expose the dull surface under neath, so I say u got pretty lucky.
 

Last edited by JKL1031; May 28, 2014 at 09:05 AM.
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #2114  
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I have a 2007 g35x sedan. I was working on painting my headlight housing, and decided i should clean up the lenses while i'm there. So i used a product from nanotech at work its like a white
Foam that sprays over and sits. It's purpose is to remove hard dirt and etc. either way it ended up eating through the clear layer, inside the lens. Which was a stupid move on my point but now im left with cloudy lens with the inside peeled off in places. I was thinking about wet sanding it, then reapplying a clear coat on the inside. Infiniti dealership quoted $600 each for just housing + lens (cant buy the lens alone) any ideas ?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 02:25 PM
  #2115  
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You could buy some cheap eBay lights and just swap the lens onto your good lights. I think your old ones are ruined tho.
 
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