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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 02:19 PM
  #481  
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Hey George I had a question for ya...

Im plannin on startin a detail service on the side. My friend gave me a PC 7424 so now I just need some products. What do you think about this lineup? Keep in mind Im lookin for something bang for buck and Im still fairly new to buffing so I dont wanna waste higher quality stuff in case I mess up!

-Intensive Polish
-Final Polish II
-EX-P Sealant

DO you think a glaze is really neccessary? Or would I still get good results with the products above, plus a coat of wax.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 10:06 PM
  #482  
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From: AZ
Originally Posted by BALLINassG35
Hey George I had a question for ya...

Im plannin on startin a detail service on the side. My friend gave me a PC 7424 so now I just need some products. What do you think about this lineup? Keep in mind Im lookin for something bang for buck and Im still fairly new to buffing so I dont wanna waste higher quality stuff in case I mess up!

-Intensive Polish
-Final Polish II
-EX-P Sealant

DO you think a glaze is really neccessary? Or would I still get good results with the products above, plus a coat of wax.

to start detail u need to start from shampoo>clay bar>polish>sealant>wax

i have FMJ and I love it...

check one of the response few post earlier

Here are my thoughts on using a glaze. If you are trying to fill in imperfections with a glaze, I'd rather spend that same time polishing my vehicle to remove the imperfections, not hide them. Glazes do not fill as much as you'd think and some argue that it will lessen the durability of the sealant used on top. If you're looking for added pop, I do use more of an oil based glaze for more depth and gloss. The downside to using a glaze like Clear Kote Red Moose Glaze is that sealants have a difficult time bonding to it. I'll use this combination for a show vehicle, that I only plan on using a wax on top. I hope this didn't sound too confusing.
hope that helps
 
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 09:28 AM
  #483  
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Originally Posted by blindG35
One More question about cleaning the engine Bay. I never cleaned my engine bay since I have got my car. So i'm not familiar with what product to use. Im thinking of ordering the BIO APC degreaser.

Thanks for the pm reply, I re activated my account
blingG35, glad to hear that you got everything setup again. Poorboy's Bio APC is a great product for degreasing engine bays. It's a concentrated formula so 1 bottle makes around a gallon (or more) of cleaning solution. If you have any high polished metal in your engine bay, I'd dilute it a lot or choose a different product as it could oxidize the finish.

Originally Posted by BALLINassG35
Hey George I had a question for ya...

Im plannin on startin a detail service on the side. My friend gave me a PC 7424 so now I just need some products. What do you think about this lineup? Keep in mind Im lookin for something bang for buck and Im still fairly new to buffing so I dont wanna waste higher quality stuff in case I mess up!

-Intensive Polish
-Final Polish II
-EX-P Sealant

DO you think a glaze is really neccessary? Or would I still get good results with the products above, plus a coat of wax.
Those products are definitely great products to start detailing with. They are affordable and will provide professional results. Good choices. blindG35 quoted my recent reply on glazes for you.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
 
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 07:18 PM
  #484  
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i just ordered some stuff off your site George!! will be waiting for it to arrive..thanks..
 
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 08:40 PM
  #485  
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
blingG35, glad to hear that you got everything setup again. Poorboy's Bio APC is a great product for degreasing engine bays. It's a concentrated formula so 1 bottle makes around a gallon (or more) of cleaning solution. If you have any high polished metal in your engine bay, I'd dilute it a lot or choose a different product as it could oxidize the finish.



Those products are definitely great products to start detailing with. They are affordable and will provide professional results. Good choices. blindG35 quoted my recent reply on glazes for you.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
Thanks for the response man, I was waiting for your feedback and it gave me the OK to place my order.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 12:40 AM
  #486  
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I just received the leatherique cleaner and rejuvenator I ordered from datailed image.

Are there any additional instructions I need to apply these products? The bottle says to see complete instructions, but it seems pretty simple...


Thanks
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 07:17 AM
  #487  
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Originally Posted by ap1_alan
I just received the leatherique cleaner and rejuvenator I ordered from datailed image.

Are there any additional instructions I need to apply these products? The bottle says to see complete instructions, but it seems pretty simple...

Thanks
Unfortunately, the bottle doesn't give you much insight on how to get the most out of the Leatherique products. In fact, I don't think you'd be happy with the results if you followed them exactly. Here's a link to our suggestions on how to get the most out of your Leatherique leather care.

If you have any questions, let me know.

Thanks guys.

George
 
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 03:23 PM
  #488  
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Unfortunately, the bottle doesn't give you much insight on how to get the most out of the Leatherique products. In fact, I don't think you'd be happy with the results if you followed them exactly. Here's a link to our suggestions on how to get the most out of your Leatherique leather care.

If you have any questions, let me know.

Thanks guys.

George


Thanks for that link, it is very helpful... Being this time of year I don't think I will get much of a sona effect from the sun though (its been raining the past couple days), and I don't have heated seats on my G. Should i just let it sit a little longer (maybe 24 hours) to help it soak in?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #489  
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Yep, longer the better... or what some detailers do is use a heat gun or hair dryer to create that sauna effect. If you go this route, one word of caution is don't get too close to any plastic or anything (don't want to melt it!).

I would just give it more time if it isn't too warm out.

If you have any other questions, let me know.

George
 
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 10:39 AM
  #490  
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Just orderd the PC polisher. Let the fun begin
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 01:11 PM
  #491  
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Originally Posted by chrisg_101
Just orderd the PC polisher. Let the fun begin
Thanks for the support. If you have any questions using your PC, please do not hesitate to ask.

Happy Holidays!

George
 
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Old Dec 23, 2007 | 08:31 PM
  #492  
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Hey George,

I just spent 6 horus today polishing my g35. I first washed and clayed it, then started polishing with a PC with orange pad and IP. I then followed up with white pad and FPII. Im impressed with the results from far away, but theres still swirls and small scratches closeup. Do you think I have to get the yellow pad and powergloss to get the rest of the swirls and scratches out? Ill take pics tommorow when its sunny again if that helps.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2007 | 08:54 AM
  #493  
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Originally Posted by BALLINassG35
Hey George,

I just spent 6 horus today polishing my g35. I first washed and clayed it, then started polishing with a PC with orange pad and IP. I then followed up with white pad and FPII. Im impressed with the results from far away, but theres still swirls and small scratches closeup. Do you think I have to get the yellow pad and powergloss to get the rest of the swirls and scratches out? Ill take pics tommorow when its sunny again if that helps.
The first thing I would like to make sure of is that you are using the proper lighting when you are polishing. The most common thing to use is a set of dual halogen 500w halogen lights from Sears, etc. Without the proper lighting it can be difficult to see exactly the imperfections you are trying to remove.

That being said, my first approach would be to try Intensive Polish again with the orange pad and apply some more pressure at full speed 6. If this isn't making an improvement on the imperfections, then you can bump up to something more aggressive. If the imperfections are really deep, then I'd suggest going to Power Gloss with the yellow pad as you stated. Beyond that you have to keep applying coat after coat until desired results are achieved or step up to a more powerful buffer. Using the PC can achieve those results, it just takes longer to get there, patience is needed.

Let me know what you end up going with and how the results turn out.

George
 
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 12:14 PM
  #494  
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I just got a PC7424 for Christmas, and have the velcro plate and pads on the way (white and blue). Do I need the 6" counterweight? It is not clear on the website whether this is required.

About polishes, I already have FPII and really like the shine it brings out. But I need a partner with more cutting power. I've got two cars that need more serious correction. I don't mind having to follow it up with the FPII, since I'll only have to do this heavier cutting once. Looking at the website, I can't rank the difference between SIP, IP, Power Gloss, and the Poorboy's polishes. A ranking for cutting power would be helpful. Given the need to cut more deeply in my 8 year old Pathfinder, and a follow up with FPII, which 16oz polish/pad do you recommend?

Also about polishes, what does "break down the polish" mean?
 
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 04:36 PM
  #495  
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Originally Posted by RocketScientist
I just got a PC7424 for Christmas, and have the velcro plate and pads on the way (white and blue). Do I need the 6" counterweight? It is not clear on the website whether this is required.

Nope, this will help cut down on vibrations a little, but certainly isn't necessary.

About polishes, I already have FPII and really like the shine it brings out. But I need a partner with more cutting power. I've got two cars that need more serious correction. I don't mind having to follow it up with the FPII, since I'll only have to do this heavier cutting once. Looking at the website, I can't rank the difference between SIP, IP, Power Gloss, and the Poorboy's polishes. A ranking for cutting power would be helpful. Given the need to cut more deeply in my 8 year old Pathfinder, and a follow up with FPII, which 16oz polish/pad do you recommend?

Also about polishes, what does "break down the polish" mean?
Breaking down the polish means working it long enough for the abrasive particles to break down. If you don't break down the polish, you're basically grinding bits of abrasive particles, which can leave behind a haze or marring, etc. Breaking down a polish requires constant pressure and sometimes heat to make the abrasive particles smaller and smaller. When the polish is broken down, it's usually a milky color.

As far as polish recommendations, here's how I'd rate the ones you listed:

Poorboy's SSR 3 - Most aggressive
Menzerna Power Gloss
Poorboy's SSR 2.5
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Menzerna Super Intensive Polish
SSR 2 - Least aggressive

The Poorboy's Polishes use larger abrasive particles to level the clear coat vs. Menzerna uses a higher concentration of smaller abrasives. Using a higher concentration of smaller abrasives is what I recommend using because there's less of a chance of not breaking down the abrasives and not getting the results you're looking for.

In most cases, an orange light cutting pad and something like Intensive Polish gets the job done.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have any other questions on anything.

George
 
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