Leather conditioner help needed !
Leather conditioner help needed !
Someone please solve problem of getting leather conditioner in the thousands of perforations in my '06 Coupes seats ! Since they are Graphite color the conditioner I tried (Meguiars) started turning each little hole white! I'm sure someone else has had this prob. Thanks in advance for reply's.
If it's hard stuff already in there. You need to softing it up by poking at the hole's with a tooth pick and then using a woolite(1:6) or APC(1:10) to loosing it up more and then vacuum it. It's going to take some time to remove everlast bit. I myself use all this tools to get my peforation in the seats clean:
Woolite1:6, PC with leather brush, Viynl leather brush, Toothbrush(meduim), Lexol leather ph cleaner, Wood toothpick's and a 5 hp vacuum.
I myself had the same probelm when I friend threw up in the back sit and it was a hot day and I was away from my house, So when I got back home the stuff alreay harden and I had to take out the back set to clean it. Took along time
Woolite1:6, PC with leather brush, Viynl leather brush, Toothbrush(meduim), Lexol leather ph cleaner, Wood toothpick's and a 5 hp vacuum.
I myself had the same probelm when I friend threw up in the back sit and it was a hot day and I was away from my house, So when I got back home the stuff alreay harden and I had to take out the back set to clean it. Took along time
Originally Posted by Scrooge
If it's hard stuff already in there. You need to softing it up by poking at the hole's with a tooth pick and then using a woolite(1:6) or APC(1:10) to loosing it up more and then vacuum it. It's going to take some time to remove everlast bit. I myself use all this tools to get my peforation in the seats clean:
Woolite1:6, PC with leather brush, Viynl leather brush, Toothbrush(meduim), Lexol leather ph cleaner, Wood toothpick's and a 5 hp vacuum.
I myself had the same probelm when I friend threw up in the back sit and it was a hot day and I was away from my house, So when I got back home the stuff alreay harden and I had to take out the back set to clean it. Took along time
Woolite1:6, PC with leather brush, Viynl leather brush, Toothbrush(meduim), Lexol leather ph cleaner, Wood toothpick's and a 5 hp vacuum.
I myself had the same probelm when I friend threw up in the back sit and it was a hot day and I was away from my house, So when I got back home the stuff alreay harden and I had to take out the back set to clean it. Took along time
I think there are some clear leather conditioners (spray bottles). I think armor all makes some. I know armor all isn't the best. But I've used it on occasions and it does a pretty good job of lifting dirt and hydrating leather. I think it's a little too shiny, but that side effect doesn't last all that long.
Originally Posted by miltoda
I think there are some clear leather conditioners (spray bottles). I think armor all makes some. I know armor all isn't the best. But I've used it on occasions and it does a pretty good job of lifting dirt and hydrating leather. I think it's a little too shiny, but that side effect doesn't last all that long.
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Use a water-based product (will not block perforations with oil /cream)
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is often further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
This type of automotive upholstery finish should not be considered a natural leather hide as far as care and its maintenance is concerned, but treated as a vinyl, only requiring that you maintain its moisture and protect it from ultra violet (UV) radiation. A water-based cleaner will permeate the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller.
Water-based coatings (polyurethane) react negatively when oil or a petroleum based product is applied to them, basic chemistry; sooner or later oil or petroleum distillates will deteriorate the top. Most leather conditioners are formulated with oils and will do more harm than good and are totally unnecessary on finished and / or covered leather.
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is often further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
This type of automotive upholstery finish should not be considered a natural leather hide as far as care and its maintenance is concerned, but treated as a vinyl, only requiring that you maintain its moisture and protect it from ultra violet (UV) radiation. A water-based cleaner will permeate the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller.
Water-based coatings (polyurethane) react negatively when oil or a petroleum based product is applied to them, basic chemistry; sooner or later oil or petroleum distillates will deteriorate the top. Most leather conditioners are formulated with oils and will do more harm than good and are totally unnecessary on finished and / or covered leather.
Originally Posted by TOGWT
Use a water-based product (will not block perforations with oil /cream)
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is often further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
This type of automotive upholstery finish should not be considered a natural leather hide as far as care and its maintenance is concerned, but treated as a vinyl, only requiring that you maintain its moisture and protect it from ultra violet (UV) radiation. A water-based cleaner will permeate the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller.
Water-based coatings (polyurethane) react negatively when oil or a petroleum based product is applied to them, basic chemistry; sooner or later oil or petroleum distillates will deteriorate the top. Most leather conditioners are formulated with oils and will do more harm than good and are totally unnecessary on finished and / or covered leather.
The complex tanning process of chromed tanned hides results in the fat liquoring and oils necessary to keep the hide soft and pliable being locked in, this is often further sealed by a durable polyethylene covering to protect the hide from abrasion from clothing as well as the dust / dirt introduced by the vehicle’s AC system.
This type of automotive upholstery finish should not be considered a natural leather hide as far as care and its maintenance is concerned, but treated as a vinyl, only requiring that you maintain its moisture and protect it from ultra violet (UV) radiation. A water-based cleaner will permeate the polyurethane covering as its molecules are much smaller.
Water-based coatings (polyurethane) react negatively when oil or a petroleum based product is applied to them, basic chemistry; sooner or later oil or petroleum distillates will deteriorate the top. Most leather conditioners are formulated with oils and will do more harm than good and are totally unnecessary on finished and / or covered leather.
Originally Posted by redlude97
+1, 303 aerospacer protectant is all I use on my leather seats, I treat them as vinyl like the rest of the interior
Oops, I meant 303 aerospace protectant. http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/...rotectant-P12/
Last edited by redlude97; Dec 17, 2007 at 09:47 PM.



