Long story, but if you drive in Peoria you'll understand. I had a huge rock take a 1" x 1/2" chunk out of my grille this morning. I went ahead and glued it back together, smoothed it out a little, and painted it black to match my G. I'm getting a new gille, but after seeing the finished mod I may just keep it for a while. I really like the way it looks, and it looks better in person than what the #@$#$ pictures show.

Let me know what you think: (the last picture is the best IMO)










Easy to do, but taking off the grille with the bumper still on was a little hard.

Regards,

John

 

oh swweeeet. how did you do it? do a DIY pllleeaase. i wanna do that too! dont worry, im very far from you.

G35S 6MT
Technosquare ECU
350Z Springs & Struts
JWT popcharger + Z-tube
Stillen True Dual Exhaust
6-wire ground kit

 

looks pretty tight

Daniel

5ATc / DP / Premium / Aero / Clear Bra / 5% Tint - 30% Windshield / Ground Kit / Clear Corners / Shock Sensor / L.E.D. Hood Lights / Z - Tube / OEM Remote Window Up semi-fixed and installed

 

Thanks for the comments. The more I look at it, the more I like it. The glossy black with the chrome logo I think work well together. I have a friend who can clean up the repair damage and repaint for almost nothing, so this mod is a keeper for a while.

I should have taken more pictures, especially of the removal. Since I plan on taking it off again, I'll do it then. But for now, here's a shot from the service manual to help:



First thing first...be prepared to be PO'd at the "turn fasteners". The manual says there are four, but there are only TWO. Next, to pull the "tips" down on those things your arms can be no thicker that about 1.5 inches. And that's not really right either. So here's my version of what the manual should say:

1. Apply masking tape on your bumper to protect it. All around where the grille could come in contact with it. (they got that part right)

2. Remove all four push-like clips AND the two on each side of the grille being used to hold part of the bumper.

3. This next step requires either that you know how to remove those "turn fasteners", or if you're like me and can't understand why they are there in the first place, break/twist them off. The four clips on top and the four pawls on the bottom are more than enough to keep the grille in place. BUT, if you want to remove them you'll need to squeeze the back end of the fastener with needle-nose pliers. This causes the little "square plug" to turn and line up with the square hole, and then you can pull apart the grille from the attachment point. It looks like the grille is designed to be removed after the bumper has been pulled...

4. Once the clips and fasteners have been removed, you need to release the pawls (4) at the bottom part of the grille. they are stiff, so push up on their tabs in the middle while pulling out on the grille. You need to reach behind the grille, and that's why you removed those other two clips next to the grille - it gives you more room to pull out the grille so you can get your hand behind there.

Be careful with step #4. As soon as the pawls are released the grille is loose and will come out potentially hitting your bumper, so make sure you protect the bumper!

5. Remove the logo via three pawls that hold it to the grille.

6. Clean that grille! You can't imagine what crap builds up back there. I sanded everything down to smooth down other big nicks and scratches, and to provide a grabby surface for the primer. That chrome finish does not hold paint!

7. Prime it, paint it your body color, clear coat it, and let it dry. Done.

8. To reinstall, slide the grille back into place by just guiding the pawls in at the bottom. Everything should line up from there.

Hope that helps.

Regards,

John

 

Actually, the turn fasteners are just that. If you shine a bright light on the front of the fastener, you'll see a slot. Use as small screw driver and twist (turn) the square head of the fastener to line up with the square hole and voila, off your grill comes![img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Remove the fastener and attach it to your grill to re-install. Just press the grill back into place.

<font color=blue>[i]GroundingGear™ Equipped </font color=blue>

 

I really like it dude... keep it black...very nice!

TC

"There is a Very Fine Line Between "Hobby and Mental Illness"

 

That is friggin' awesome man.

 

hmmm..not bad at all

 

What brand of paint did you use??

2003 BLK/BLK 6-spd Injen clear corners

 

Did you do it with professional tools or a spray can?

 

Yeah I think that looks good. Also interested in the paint itself. Thanks,

"I'm not saying you're full of BS, per se" - Zimbo



-JustICE

 

Thanks for the comments everyone. I just redid everything again since I decided to keep it black. I was going to have a friend help out who owns a body shop, but he was away for the weekend. I ended up doing it all myself, here's how:

Materials:

Kleen Strip Automotive Paint Stipper (brown/tan spray can)
Kleen Strip Aircraft Stripper (shop strength - white/blue spray can)
Plasti-kote Black Sandable Primer (spray can)
Plasti-kote Paint and Primer Sealer (spray can)
Plasti-kote Truck/SUV Black Paint (spray can - perfect match for our black)
Plasti-kote Truck/SUV Clear Coat (spray can)

(Dupli-Color also makes matching stuff, but Walmart was closer to my house!)

I did everything in a pretty clean shop room with no air movement. I would recommend that you use at least a paper mask.

First I stripped all the paint and the little primer I originally used. The stripper I used was from Walmart and it was from "Kleen Strip". I used two types. I used their regular stuff to get 99% of it off, and then I used their "shop strength" to remove the rest from all the nooks and tiny places. I used a metal brush to remove everything and to also really scratch the surface of the grille. I washed everything down and proceeded to sand, sand, and sand.

After a final cleaning, I applied three light coats of a sandable primer. I wet sanded with 400 grit paper between coats 2 and 3. After the sandable primer I used a "primer sealer". This provided a perfectly smooth surface for the paint. You don't have to use the sealer, but you have to prime it if you want the paint to stay on and not peel or easily chip. Both primers completely filled and covered a couple nicks in the grille.

Next I started painting three light coats, waiting 15 minutes between coats. The first coat was more like a mist, with the second coat completely covering every part of the grille, and the third was for insurance. This is where the primer sealer did its job. The paint is as smooth as a baby's butt. No orange peel, no dimples, nothing but perfectly smooth black paint.

Finally it was time for the clear coat (3 coats total). Let the paint dry for at least an hour, then apply the first coat of clear as a light mist. Proceed with the rest of the coats just like the paint. I waited several hours before I put it back on the car, and a day before going out. This afternoon was the first time I was out with the car. Even though I was hit by several bugs, they all came off without a problem without damaging the finish. I would recommend waiting a few days to let everything fully cure.

Regards,

John

 

I might be doing this, thanks.

Thanks - Joey Avino

 

Beautiful job. I still wish they came this way from the factory. I am surprised that no one has made a ducatiguy reference yet. Haha sorry I had to. Seriously though, the G looks so much better without the chrome bars up front, and I really am starting to think that maybe a great project for me until I order my new grille.

2003.5 G Coupe premium. 6MT Black/black
Come join the G35Driver chat on EFnet. Channel name is #G35Driver. Catch me on aim (Xtreme03s10) if you need help setting up mIRC.

 

Should be a sticky in DIY section. Nice work.

"I'm not saying you're full of BS, per se" - Zimbo



-JustICE