Sealant & Wax Product Recommendations for Infiniti Paints
#16
05-29-2008, 06:51 PM
#17
05-29-2008, 08:27 PM
Originally Posted by RPF
George,
Thanks for the recommendations! I have a couple of questions on some products for my OB G37:
I'd like to use the CG Jetseal 109 sealant, but the waxes that you recommend to use with this sealant are quite expensive ($54/$69). Have you tried the Natty's blue over this sealant? At $19 and with everyone saying that it works great on black, I'd like to try this wax before having to move up to the more expensive CG waxes.
My car came with a ton of hologramming courtesy of the dealer's not-so-great prep team. Since delivery, I got a bird bomb that caused some slight etching on the hood. Would the Menzerna PO106ff polisb be strong enough to handle these issues or would there be a stronger polish that you would recommend to handle these before finishing with the 106ff?
I'd be applying the liquid products with a dual-action polisher that I received as a present a few years ago. It was from Griots Garage and uses a Porter Cable 97366 motor assembly with a velcro backing plate of just under 6" in diameter. I still have a few unused "red" wax pads and "orange" polishing pads from them. Could I use these with the sealants/polishes I mentioned or do you have some other recommendations on pads that would work better with this buffer and these products?
Thanks!
Thanks for the recommendations! I have a couple of questions on some products for my OB G37:
I'd like to use the CG Jetseal 109 sealant, but the waxes that you recommend to use with this sealant are quite expensive ($54/$69). Have you tried the Natty's blue over this sealant? At $19 and with everyone saying that it works great on black, I'd like to try this wax before having to move up to the more expensive CG waxes.
My car came with a ton of hologramming courtesy of the dealer's not-so-great prep team. Since delivery, I got a bird bomb that caused some slight etching on the hood. Would the Menzerna PO106ff polisb be strong enough to handle these issues or would there be a stronger polish that you would recommend to handle these before finishing with the 106ff?
I'd be applying the liquid products with a dual-action polisher that I received as a present a few years ago. It was from Griots Garage and uses a Porter Cable 97366 motor assembly with a velcro backing plate of just under 6" in diameter. I still have a few unused "red" wax pads and "orange" polishing pads from them. Could I use these with the sealants/polishes I mentioned or do you have some other recommendations on pads that would work better with this buffer and these products?
Thanks!
The reason I typically recommend keeping the sealant / wax combo within the same brand is because often there is some synergy created between them and there's almost no bonding issues. In the two products you mentioned, Jet Seal and Natty's Blue, you shouldn't see any bonding issues.
Regarding the polish, PO106FF should do a great job on the hologramming you are describing, however the bird dropping etching may be another story. I've seen bird bombs that come out w/ PO106FF and some that require wet sanding to completely remove. It's really all depending on how deep it has etched into your clear.
Certainly use the pads you already have. As Blueboxer mentioned, consider picking up a white polishing pad (or equivalent) to follow up from the orange cutting pad. Sometimes the more aggressive pads can leave behind micro-marring which can be corrected with a finer pad combo.
Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.
George
#18
05-29-2008, 08:30 PM
#19
05-29-2008, 10:41 PM
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Let me think of a way to run a group buy on some products and I'll post something up. I'll have something for next week.
George
George
That would be great, I am anxious to try the Pete's 53 or 50/50. We can all have a detail off and post some pics.
PS- thanks for getting the last order out so quickly, it got here a day early too.
#20
05-30-2008, 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Blueboxer offered some great advice. You certainly can top the Jet Seal 109 with Natty's Blue for some great results. Natty's Blue usually requires 2 or 3 coats to really get the pop and wet look. Remember, sealants require 24 hours to fully cure and waxes ~12 hours so space it out accordingly for maximum results.
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
The reason I typically recommend keeping the sealant / wax combo within the same brand is because often there is some synergy created between them and there's almost no bonding issues. In the two products you mentioned, Jet Seal and Natty's Blue, you shouldn't see any bonding issues.
Regarding the polish, PO106FF should do a great job on the hologramming you are describing, however the bird dropping etching may be another story. I've seen bird bombs that come out w/ PO106FF and some that require wet sanding to completely remove. It's really all depending on how deep it has etched into your clear.
Regarding the polish, PO106FF should do a great job on the hologramming you are describing, however the bird dropping etching may be another story. I've seen bird bombs that come out w/ PO106FF and some that require wet sanding to completely remove. It's really all depending on how deep it has etched into your clear.
From what I've read on this forum, the PO106ff seems to be a "miracle worker", but I'm not familiar enough with it to know if it will take care of defects such as this. Is there a slightly more aggressive polish/pad that you'd recommend or should I just keep going over the affected area with the PO106ff until the spot is gone?
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Certainly use the pads you already have. As Blueboxer mentioned, consider picking up a white polishing pad (or equivalent) to follow up from the orange cutting pad. Sometimes the more aggressive pads can leave behind micro-marring which can be corrected with a finer pad combo.
Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.
George
Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.
George
#22
06-01-2008, 12:28 AM
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Shane (Garnet Canuck) PM'd me about putting together a thread about the various products we offer along with which colors they would work best with. I think this is a great idea because I often get asked, "Which sealant and wax do you recommend for my color G". Selecting the appropriate product can be overwhelming when there is so many options out there. This will give everyone a quick reference on what I feel works best on their paint based on my personal experience. I'm pulling the colors from the Infiniti website, so if I've missed any previous year colors, please let me know and I'll be sure to update them.
#23
06-01-2008, 04:57 PM
Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Blueboxer offered some great advice. You certainly can top the Jet Seal 109 with Natty's Blue for some great results. Natty's Blue usually requires 2 or 3 coats to really get the pop and wet look. Remember, sealants require 24 hours to fully cure and waxes ~12 hours so space it out accordingly for maximum results.
Going with a sealant on a MB metallic black (just ordered some jet seal from you due to the pics in this thread
). Figured after paint correction, i'd apply DWG, give it at least 30 mins, then top with jet seal and send him on his way. ...But with the instruction to rinse the car off the next day and apply some AquaWax spray wax as LSP.Aquawax is decent enough stuff, locally available, and easy for him to do. Get him into the habit of washing it, and applying some aquawax to keep the protection until it's time to reapply the sealant.
Am I doing him a disservice with this routine? Any reason why i wouldn't want to put some DWG on there before the jet seal?
#24
06-01-2008, 07:48 PM
Originally Posted by Glycerine
Struggling with this myself. Customer can only leave it with me for a day, and does not park in a garage. I'd really like to do sealant, dwg, sealant, wax but doesn't appear time is on my side
Going with a sealant on a MB metallic black (just ordered some jet seal from you due to the pics in this thread ). Figured after paint correction, i'd apply DWG, give it at least 30 mins, then top with jet seal and send him on his way. ...But with the instruction to rinse the car off the next day and apply some AquaWax spray wax as LSP.
Aquawax is decent enough stuff, locally available, and easy for him to do. Get him into the habit of washing it, and applying some aquawax to keep the protection until it's time to reapply the sealant.
Am I doing him a disservice with this routine? Any reason why i wouldn't want to put some DWG on there before the jet seal?
Going with a sealant on a MB metallic black (just ordered some jet seal from you due to the pics in this thread
). Figured after paint correction, i'd apply DWG, give it at least 30 mins, then top with jet seal and send him on his way. ...But with the instruction to rinse the car off the next day and apply some AquaWax spray wax as LSP.Aquawax is decent enough stuff, locally available, and easy for him to do. Get him into the habit of washing it, and applying some aquawax to keep the protection until it's time to reapply the sealant.
Am I doing him a disservice with this routine? Any reason why i wouldn't want to put some DWG on there before the jet seal?
, I was just wondering
#27
06-12-2008, 12:04 AM
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#30
11-06-2009, 02:33 PM
darn too bad i read this thread a day after i bought blackfire wet diamond for my white g... tried it out on my hood and front fenders after final polishing with PO85RD, added 2 coats with 1/2 hour time between each application. the shine is a little better, but not by much. but the slickness--oh man, unbelievable! never felt any LSP this slick ever.